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Discussion in 'Guns - Blackpowder' started by chambers bd, Aug 23, 2008.
Share your insite with other brothers on sighting in a fire arm, pistol or rifle!
If i'm trying to zero my rifle (270) i use bags to make certain it's still. I have mine shooting 1 inch high at 100 yds. and it gets back flat at 200. Also when i make an adjustment to my scope. i peck the side of the scope with my pocket knife. Old man showed me that and i'm not sure if it helps or not.:smile2: If i'm gonna start season with a clean barrel, i try to keep it clean while zeroing. Personally i don't like a newly cleaned barrel. Seems my rifle shoots better after i shoot it a few times after cleaning.
You are a man of vast knowledge, Thank you. Please teach us all!
Hold the rifle steady, bags or what not, pop a hole in the target and then move the cross-hairs to the hole. Most times you can get it right in two shots.
In a hunting situation its that first shot that usually counts the most. The barrell of your weapon is cold before the shot. When sighting in, I try to let the barrell cool off between rounds to get the same results as if I was hunting. Also I use the same brand and grain of ammo that I hunt with. This probably isnt much of a factor with blackpowder rifles than hi-powered rifles but is a good practice.
yeah,its best to send a couple downrange to clear any kind of cleaning solution or oil out of the barrel.
ny dad showed me to peck on the side of the scope too,in case the cross hairs don't move when you adjust,i don;t know if it actually works either,just habit now i guess,lol
Good advice. Use the same ammo and cold bore every shot to be right on when hunting. Get a sniper handbook and study cold bore shots:wink:. This is what you are doing on that first round down range to Bambi.
Good advice guys! I'm starting to get things around in the next couple of days to do some sighting in myself. 50 cal B/P, a couple squirrel guns and a 12ga slug gun. I know they are all on zero but I like to make sure before the seasons get here. I'll remember these little bits of info.
This also is a very good point that i should have made mention of when talking about clean barrels. After a shot i'll leave the bolt open and allow it a little time to cool down. I hand load my rifle shells and agree that you should hunt with whatever you zeroed with.
I like to run a few rounds through mine each year before season. I have been using Barns copper solvent about every few years to clean excessive copper fouling from my rifles and I think it has helped to tighten my groups . I handload all my centerfires and I have my pet rifle ,a 243 sighted at 1" high @100 yds as well,even though I rarely take a shot over 150. I figure getting close is the biggest part of being a real hunter.
I will shoot a five shot group ,and circle the first two , from a clean barrel,and the last three are usually cutting each other on the money.
Tapping on the turrets is a good idea, but nothing takes the place of recoil.:wink:
I agree! I clamp mine in on the stand and make a shot then adjust the scope to the point of impact, then fire a few rounds to verify.
1. Stable platform, Bags or bi/pod and monopod.
2. Same ammo
3. Allways fire three rounds,
4. Adjust windage of paralax.
5. Tapp scope with something dense but light.
6. Fire Three shots, readjust if needed.
7. Fire three shots, this time place a quarter on the barrel, atempt to keep it on the barrel , switch to a dime after you can do it with a quarter.
8. Doing this will greatly increase good shooting form.
9. allways have your scope on its highest setting.
10.Wait 2 min between shoots.
On a KD range use a spotter and spotter scope, once in focus back it out of focus 1/4 turn,(some will need to forward it) This will allow you to see the round all the way to the target!
Gentry muzzle brakes remove up to 85% felt recoil. 30.06 to .243
Simms barrel deresonator works to help the vibration.
Air current and temp do matter. but, I think you will know when you see it.
Free floating and bedding the action helps alot.
Reduce trigger pull to atleast 3.5 lbs, it should be crisp.
This is great information for all our BOC Brothers, feel free to discuss any part of the shooting sports. How about scopes and type?
Bore sighting beforehand will minimize using too much ammo to zero one in.
BB in SC
All of the information given about the cold barrel shots on here has been right on. When you shoot at your game, it's going to be a cold barrel shot. You want to sight your rifle in with that shot.
I get my rifle zeroed to the center of the target, then clean the barrel how it's going to be carried. After it cools, then I fire one round from the cold barrel, then adjust it to where I want it. I swab the bore again, let it cool, then fire another shot to make sure it's where the other one is. I do this several times to make sure the cold barrel shot is were it's supposed to be. I've kept records over the years on some of my rifles, and the cold barrel shot is almost always at least a half inch off of the other shots fired right behind it.
If it's a rifle I shoot alot, I'll use the copper solvent pretty often to keep the accuracy up. Most of my rifles, I will use the copper solvent after the hunting season, and just use a brush and patch the rest of the time. This way I've got no oil in the barrel but keep the soot out between groups of shots. I hunt with the bore cleaned of soot and dry patched but nothing more. Doing it this way I've found that my cold barrel shot is not off of the rest of the shots by much if any at all.
One thing that IS important that was not mentioned on sighting in is to make sure that the scope is level with the rifle, and the rifle is level on the bags, and that the target is also level. This will eliminate any problems in getting the group moved to where you want it. If you make an adjustment vertically, and the group moves both vertically and horizontally, then the scope, rifle, or both are not level. Where this comes in to play is at long range. It's got to be level or the farther you go back, the further out left or right the shot will be.
As far as sighting in handguns, I see alot of people sight them in on a rest with a loose grip, then shoot them with a normal grip and can't figure out why the impact is low. This is because of a loose grip on the bench, and a tight grip when shooting in normal positions and the barrel isn't moving upward as much during recoil. Also make sure the handgun is held level also as twisting it left or right will make the group go left or right also. In combat shooting this isn't an issure, but for hunting at longer range or bullseye target shooting at 50 yards or more it is.
I hope this didn't confuse more than help, LOL.
Our hunting trips were usually only a day or two affair, I would verify zero and leave the bore dirty. A Friend that was a US sniper and is a Sherrifs Department Swat Sniper told me that they would shoot at the range, Clean the gun, put one fouling shot down range and put the gun away. They would not leave it more than a few days between shooting. This way while the first shot was a cold barrel it was not a clean cold barrel. The fouling shot made the first shot more accurate than a cold/clean barrel shot. I have done it this way ever sense and have not had any problems.
I think you guys have been nailing it. You can also "bore" sight a bolt action at the range, or at least I have. Take the bolt out, put the rifle in a rest and sight thru the bore to your target and move the crosshairs to what your seeing thru your bore. Also on real cold days if your knob covering your clickers wont turn dont force it, I did that to one and broke the whole clicker thing, what you turn to go left and right or up and down. Dont ya love my technical wording.
i bought a laser boresighter, seems to work well
I really struggle with this. I'm never quite sure I've got my scope properly aligned with my rifle. I wish there were indices on rings and scopes that would take the guestimation out of it.