VRO removal? Anyone tried this?

Discussion in 'Bubba's Outboards' started by fattiresc, Jan 22, 2006.

  1. fattiresc

    fattiresc New Member

    Messages:
    30
    State:
    South Carolina
    I have a 1984 Johnson 90 hp on my toon. Just pulled it out of the water yesterday and need to work on the motor. I just bought this boat this past summer and have had engine trouble ever since. One cylinder has low compression, around 35 psi. The other 3 cylinders are around 120. While the motor needs other work like a tune up, I am thinking about taking the VRO oil injection off of it and mixing myself. I have heard pros and cons about doing this. I agree with the logic that if I mix it, then I know it will always be there. Others say that the VRO mixes different amounts of oil at different rates of speed and that mixing your own cannot accomplish this. If anyone has any advise on this I would love to hear it.

    Thanks.

    ~Jason
     
  2. TOPS

    TOPS New Member

    Messages:
    4,099
    State:
    Cabot,Arkansas
    Jason, The cylinder with low compression would not be the lower one is it. I just had the same problem. My problem was a crack ring!
     

  3. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    If you have a cylinder down to 35 lbs and the rest at 120 then you have a serouis problem. Shutting down the VRO will not help that cylinder.
    You need to pull the top off and ck that cylinder for scoring. You could have a broke ring or it could be a head gasket seeping making it loose compression.
    Either way it won't last long with that cylinder that low.
    If and when you get the compression back up I will post you the directions on how to shut the vro off.
     
  4. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    jason.........(VRO Pump Conversion To Straight Fuel Pump)

    You can convert the VRO pump into a straight fuel pump, eliminating the oil tank and VRO pump warning system, but retain the overheat warning setup by doing the following:

    1 - Cut and plug the oil line at the engine so that the oil side of the VRO pump will not draw air into its system. Trace the wires from the back of the VRO to its rubber plug (electrical plug) and disconnect it.

    2 - Trace the two wires from the oil tank to the engine, disconnect those two wires, then remove them and the oil tank.

    3 - Mix the 50/1 oil in the proper amount with whatever quanity fuel you have. Disconnect the fuel line at the engine. Pump the fuel primer bulb until fuel exits that hose with the tint of whatever oil you used. Reconnect the fuel hose.

    That's it. If you want to test the heat warning system to ease your mind, have the key in the on position, then ground out the tan heat sensor wire that you'll find protruding from the cylinder head. The warning horn should sound off.


    I hope this isn't confusing. I trust the VRO systems but prior to 1989 some of them did have some issues.
     
  5. fattiresc

    fattiresc New Member

    Messages:
    30
    State:
    South Carolina

    To tell you the truth, I can't remember if it is the lower or the upper. I know it is on the right side. It has been a while since I did that comp check. I sprayed wd-40 into the cylinder on a suggestion from a fried to see if it was a stuck ring. The compression only got to 50 or so, no luck there. Was your sylinder scored? How much work/cost did yours take?

    Thanks for the reply!

    ~Jason
     
  6. fattiresc

    fattiresc New Member

    Messages:
    30
    State:
    South Carolina

    Thanks BubbaKat, I didn't think it would help but I was thinking while I had it out of the water I would disconnect this. I appreciate the instructions, they are much appreciated. How do you feel about the disconnect? Do you think it will cause any harm in the long run?
     
  7. TOPS

    TOPS New Member

    Messages:
    4,099
    State:
    Cabot,Arkansas
    Yes my cylinder was scored had to have it honed. I had to buy a new piston and all new rings for all 3-cylinder. It cost me around $350.00 for the parts Mac my fishing partner did the work for me. gasket set, you must have
     
  8. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    Naw it won't cause any harm in the long run. You keep your mix right and it will perform just as well.

    You might try decarboning that engine and see if it will up the compression.
    To make it run right it need to be withen at least 10% of the other two.
    I would pull the head and see first hand.

    If the walls have no scoring then it could be a gasket. Pull each plug and see if one of them looks real clean like it has been sand blasted. That would be an indication of water getting in. That could be a gasket but the top has to come off to really tell.
     
  9. fattiresc

    fattiresc New Member

    Messages:
    30
    State:
    South Carolina
    Thanks guys for all the help. I will keep you posted. I am hoping to get my hands dirty sometime this week or maybe this weekend. I already have a manual for it. Any other thoughts or suggestions are appreciated!

    Thanks.

    ~Jason
     
  10. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    If you have any questions just drop in and ask away.
    What bob or some of the rest don.t know I have a way of finding out.
    I am glad you have a manuel. That takes alot out of the guessing.
     
  11. Bobpaul

    Bobpaul New Member

    Messages:
    3,039
    State:
    Supply NC
    Before you do anything to that engine, pull the head over the low cyl. There are no short cuts to getting the compression up and it must be up.

    A stuck ring can be decarboned and a head gasket can be replaced, but without pulling that head, you'll be pissin' in the wind. If any scoring, scratches straight up and down, are there, you'll need to do as Top did and have it honed.
     
  12. Boogan1

    Boogan1 New Member

    Messages:
    122
    State:
    Carrollton, MO
    While we are on the subject of VRO pumps, I bought my boat last summer, it is an 89 nitro with an 89 evinrude 110. It has the VRO injection. The first thing I did was mark the oil tank and took it on a test run to make sure the oil injection was working. It seems to be working fine, but I have had several recommend that I do away with it. I have always lived by the old adage "if it ain't broke don't fix it", but also can't afford to cook an engine. I do keep a very close eye on the oil level and watch that the engine is smoking a little at low speed. Will there be any indication that it is going bad or will it just quit? Thanks, Boog
     
  13. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    If the alarm is working it will let you know.
    You are doing the right thing by keeping a ck on it. Around 1989 they had about all the bad issues cured on VRO's but if it will make you more at ease then do away with it.
    Myself I would continue useing it.
     
  14. cook

    cook New Member

    Messages:
    1,494
    State:
    Plattsburg,Mo.(near K.C.)
    "If it ain't broke,don't fix it"

    true

    true
     
  15. Little Mac

    Little Mac Active Member

    Messages:
    1,828
    State:
    NW Arkansa
    When you go to break the engine down, it helps to have a good clean bench on which to spread your parts out on. Keeping everything clean is a must on these engines, the least amount of grit can ruin your work in the long run. I rebiult Tops engine and werent nothin to it, If you have any mechanical skills at all and the book then you should do fine. Another thing to think about is Pictures or diagrams, That book isnt going to show you what went where on that engine, make some drawings, use some colored paints to mark connections and if ya have a digital camera take some close up pics. Believe me it will all help putting it back together. Hopefully you can decarb it and things will be fine, but I kinda doubt it. More than likely you will find a bottom cyl scored. and will have to go thru what we did. If you do it yourself you will save money fer sure, The shop was going to charge Top $1500. Just my input. Mac
     
  16. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    Good advice Mac on the clean part and the manuel.
    The best manuel is the OEM manuel. If you decide to do this I can give you an address where you can get the oem manuel.
    A digital camera has been a life saver for me more times then one.
     
  17. fattiresc

    fattiresc New Member

    Messages:
    30
    State:
    South Carolina
    started to take the power head off today. Very fun, yet a daunting task. THe cylinder with low compression (Starboard top) had a nick in the piston at the top left (10 oclock), almost like something foreign got into the cylinder. The cylinder exhaust/intake port at the top had the same matching nick in the same place, very odd. The piston also seems like it has been travelling too far because there is some pitting on the head in an area on the lower right. I did not take any pictures of it today, but will try and get some tomorrow and upload them. Needless to say there was nothing we could do either way with just taking off the head, so the power head removal started. We have got all the bolts out and all of the linkage and electrical removed but it started getting dark , so we threw the cowl back on and are going to try and take the powerhead off tomorrow. The book says to remove the carbs in order to take the powerhead off. We were trying to get around that but it seems there is aolt at the bottom front of the poewr head that you can only get to with taking the carbs off. Any agreement?

    Once again it is an 85 2 stroke johnson 90 hp.
     
  18. fattiresc

    fattiresc New Member

    Messages:
    30
    State:
    South Carolina

    Top,

    turns out it is the upper. This is looking like a ring problem too, so I will keep you posted.
     
  19. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    Yea the carbs will have to come off. I would say you probly had some cokeing in there and it snatched the ring. You will know more when you get inside. How deep of a nick is in the wall. If it can be honed out then do it if it needs to be bored then if the other piston compression was good then do that one cylinder.

    Rember when you get it back togeather you need to run it like it was brand new and allow break in time. and double your oil to 25:1

    If you need anything just put it in here or PM me. I will be more then glad to help.
    While you have those carbs off I would strip them down and soak them in in some good cleaner and rebuild them.
    Robert has a good sticky at the top of the page for this.