tuning broadheads

Discussion in 'Bowhunting' started by massa_jorge, Sep 23, 2009.

  1. massa_jorge

    massa_jorge New Member

    Messages:
    2,137
    State:
    TEXAS
    from now till opening day i will only shoot broadheads. this year i have dramatically increased my draw weight as well as speed with a new bow. what i saw today was erratic flight and not that great of groups on target. before i was pulling 55 pounds on an old bow, and my broadheads shot identical to my field points, i guess because of the lower speed. what i want to know is what exactly is broadhead tuning and how do i properly do it? after the first few shots i turned the blades on the broadhead to where they match up with the vanes. this gave me 10" groups @ 40 yards. with field points i shoot 2" groups at the same distance. help!
     
  2. Snagged2

    Snagged2 New Member

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    6,252
    State:
    Verde Valley AZ
    Do the broadheads weigh the same as the field points?

    IF you increased bow draw weight, maybe the spine of the arrow is a bit light...

    What kind of broadhead,, maybe their aerodynamics have more drag than the Field points.
    With all your Broadhead pointed arrows, put them point down on your kitchen table and spin them with your fingers like a Top,, their should be NO wobble where the broadhead mates up to the arrowshaft..

    Check overall arrow straightness.. spin'm across your fingernails,, you'll feel any "bump" in the shaft causing horrible flight characteristics........
     

  3. massa_jorge

    massa_jorge New Member

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    2,137
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    the broadheads are muzzy 125 grain, same weight i use for field points. the arrows are beman hawk carbon ICS 400's. i tried the countertop thing and got no wobble. spun them and the broadhead stays the same all the way around. what else can i do?
     
  4. Snagged2

    Snagged2 New Member

    Messages:
    6,252
    State:
    Verde Valley AZ
    Maybe do the paper shoot through,, and see if the knocking point is correct..

    Sometimes the vanes or fletching may have different characteristics between FP and BH

    Local archery proshop may be of assistance..
     
  5. Fletchhunter

    Fletchhunter New Member

    Messages:
    618
    State:
    Indiana
    I had a simular problem when I switched to a more powerful bow, I switched to a bigger shaft and it cured the problem, but since you shoot carbon arrows I don't know if that would help. If the things snagged suggested don't work, I would take it to a pro shop, could be something with the rest
     
  6. bream reaper

    bream reaper Member

    Messages:
    460
    State:
    Indiana
    There is an easton tuning book out there that describes some correction broadhead vs fieldpoint but that is for consistent groups, just not in the same spot. Erratic groups could be a bad arrow or two or rest contact, maybe number them to find a bad one? good luck.
     
  7. Jacksmooth

    Jacksmooth Member

    Messages:
    574
    State:
    West Virginia
    I had the same problem a few years back. I tried all of the above suggestions. I also shoot carbons. I eventually had to go to mechanical broadheads. They shoot the same as my field points.

    Another thing to check is weigh your field points and your broad heads individually. Sometimes they are not the weight they say they are especially with field points.
     
  8. ammo warrior

    ammo warrior Member

    Messages:
    868
    State:
    Columbia, MO
    I also shoot carbons with Muzzy broad heads & fast bow. But my Muzzy's weight is 100. I believe that will make a big difference for you. Good luck & be safe:cool2:
     
  9. massa_jorge

    massa_jorge New Member

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    2,137
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    i have some muzzy 4 blade 100 grain broadheads i can try tomorrow. it rained all day so i can't even walk on my range, as it's all under water. maybe the heavier broadhead is causing too much flex in the arrow? i use the 125's because i figured they would give me extra pounch on target.
     
  10. Poppa

    Poppa New Member

    Messages:
    1,233
    State:
    Pinson, Al
    Jordan I have no idea on a four blade. On a three blade I have always
    lined the blades up perfectly with the fletchings sighting down the shaft
    of the arrow. On a flat or two blade like an old bear razor head you line
    up with the knock. I know where you are coming from, if not lined up
    correctly your arrows will do tricks.LOL. I used thunderheads and they
    had a rubber washer allowing you to tighten your head to the correct
    alighnment. If your heads are not alighned when tight you can take a
    candle and heat the shaft and turn the instert that you screw into. Be
    very careful turning the insert when holding the head. VERY SHARP
     
  11. massa_jorge

    massa_jorge New Member

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    i stuck with the 125's and did everything i read except for the heating thing. 2 arrows just will not do it no matter what i do. with field points they are fine, so i separated them out for target shooting. the rest are good to go. shot a 4.5 inch group @ 50 yards. i think that will do for hunting. shot off a few fletchings too. i have a jig and more fletchings though. it's such a relief to see the arrow flying straight at where i aimed instead of looking like a paper airplane! thanks all for the help.

    oh yeah i was shooting at an angle. that's why the arrows are in the target at an angle. that way i don't shoot all the way through the target. i think it's time for a new target.
     

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    Last edited: Sep 25, 2009
  12. Fletchhunter

    Fletchhunter New Member

    Messages:
    618
    State:
    Indiana
    Glad you got it shooting better, nothing worse than a wobbly arrow
     
  13. Poppa

    Poppa New Member

    Messages:
    1,233
    State:
    Pinson, Al
    Jodan I may have given you some bad info. I was thinking aluminum
    when I told you to heat the shaft and turn the insert. Most people used
    hot glue to install the inserts in aluminum shafts, when you heated the
    shaft you made the glue pliable again. I do not know what type of glue
    is used on graphite or carbon shafts. Sorry I missed the fact that you
    were shooting carbon arrows. Another old man mistake.LOL
     
    Last edited: Sep 26, 2009
  14. massa_jorge

    massa_jorge New Member

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    2,137
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    shoot, no harm done bud! i use gorilla glue to put my inserts in the carbon arrows. i got a bunch of aluminum easton gamegetter II's for .50 each, but i gave them to my nephews for their bows, as all they do is shoot hay bales. after getting a couple deer with the carbon arrows, i was really pleased with their performance. after shooting a few carbons into trees with no damage to the arrow, i was even happier.
     
  15. flathead willie

    flathead willie Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,241
    State:
    Virginia
    I used to shoot out to 40-50 yards just for fun, but never in the woods. Luckily, for me anyway, we don't have the wide open spaces that you have in Texas. Bow hunting for me has always been more about how close I can get, rather than how far I can shoot. 90% of the 150+ deer I've taken with a bow were 20 yards or less. Probably 50% of them have been within 12-15 yards. At those ranges, it doesn't really matter if my broad heads are tuned or not.
     
  16. Goebel13

    Goebel13 New Member

    Messages:
    59
    State:
    evansville indiana
    Hey Jorden I had the same problem before with 4 blade muzzy the phantom is they were called i shot a lot of deer but you had to shoot them all to get them right i got tired of this so switch to mechanical broad head called hammerhead made by trophy ridge they also called rockets they 4 kinds they all all good but my favorite is the hammerhead 3 blade and 2 inch cut man let tell these things are sweet screw them on your arrow and hunt they shoot just like Field points. I get in my tree stand and practice one time at the beginning of the year and where they shoot good if any they sometimes shoot a tad high 1/2 to 1 inch that is it. Man i promise you will not go wrong with this choice I very picky about broad heads it the most important thing you do not want to go out there and lose a deer or wound one its our duty to kill that animal as fast and humane as we can and these broad heads do and will kill dear all the time we shoot them past 50 yards and thats no joke. Hope these helps
     
    Last edited: Sep 26, 2009
  17. massa_jorge

    massa_jorge New Member

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    2,137
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    TEXAS
    50 yards is my max billie. i spot and stalk, and have got to within 15 yards of a bedded deer before she busted me. the reason for the long shots on target is because i was told inconsistencies in my arrow/broadhead setup would be more evident at longer range. also, i shoot from 10 yards to 65 yards on my little range. not because i am trying to make the longer shots on game, but just because i enjoy the hell out of shooting my bow! thanks for all comments.
     
  18. 6pointer0075

    6pointer0075 New Member

    Messages:
    19
    State:
    tn
    i shoot 70 lbs with easton st epics. i ued to shoot fixed heads and i had the same problem but i bought a set of RAGE 2 blade mechanical and its right on the dot now. those broaheads are bad. they have a 2 inch cut. the good thing about these heads are that they gradually open after you shoot and burst open on impact. fixed blades tend to do some crazy stuff whem u shoot. good luck