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Discussion in 'Bubba's Outboards' started by TDawgNOk, Dec 27, 2005.
What all is done durring a normal Tune-up performed by a Marine Repair shop?
This question has been hanging awhile so I'll take a swing at it.
1. New impeller or complete water pump kit if the plate is scored.
2. Drain lower unit and refill, checking oil evidence for water intrusion. If water is found, repair or replace rusty parts and reseal lower unit. Don't forget the shift shaft seal!!
3. Change spark plugs. Examine plug wires for evidence of voltage leaks. (Arc marks where they touch the block or other parts, broken insulation, etc. Examine the edges of the boots as well. Powdery residue suggests breakdown of the boot either thru age or a grounding/resistance problem.) Replace if problems are found. (Older mercs, plug wires are threaded into the distributor cap. DO NOT attempt to pull on them to remove.
4. If this is an older points and condensor type ignition, change points and condensors. Johnson, evinrude this is also the way the timing is set on some motors.
5. Check coils for evidence of overheat, deterioration of potting compound, etc. Replace if leaking gooey stuff is leaking out or insulation is cracked, crumbling.
6. If carbs were not drained prior to long term storage, advise installing carb kit after disassembly and thorough cleaning to remove sludge, varnish, etc.
7. Carefully examine battery cables for evidence of corrosion, insulation breakdown, etc. Replace if necessary. Especially important if you run an older Merc with Thunderbolt type ignition. Voltage fluctuations can and will blow the switchbox. ($175.00)
8. Dispose of old fuel in tanks and refill with fresh.
9. Check, grease, repack trailer bearings.
10. Wax the prop <snicker> and off ya go.
Did I miss anything?
Wax the prop....HAHAHA! good one Mike.
This is my first boat, has a 70hp Chrysler from 1970ish, with a brand spankin new starter on it.
Oh, did I mention I don't know squat about motors?
Tony, some how I missed that question back in Dec, It wasn't intentional.
Mike gave a description of a thorough going over with repairs, and a good one at that.
A normal tune-up doesn't consist of nearly that much service without consulting the owner first. Todays 65.00 an hr plus, shop cost requires that.
Do your own oil change and prop service, and maintain your own fuel system using a stabilizer. That'll keep the carb rebuilding to a minimum.
Get the impellor changed when needed, usually every other yr except in extreme conditions. Grease your own bearings, and stick with one quality brand of grease so you don't get a chemical reaction, rendering your lubrication useless.
For a first time boat owner, my recommendation would be to learn all you can about your engine before going to far from home/the dock. I would never have recommended such an older engine for anyone not knowing anything about outboards. Keep your checking account stocked up.
Thank you very much for the information. Personally, I didn't want such an old motor either but when you come across a boat w/ motor for only $500. It is very hard to pass up.
Brag on it next yr when it's still running and you haven't lost fishing time and drained your bank account keeping it running.
I agree with Bob on this. Those Chryslers are hard to find parts for and if you can find a tech to work on them feel very lucky.
Just like a force engine. I would run backwards from those. They no longer make parts.
You can still find a few parts for chy. but few and far inbetween though.
Tony protect the distributor cap with your life on that motor!! I just went and got a new water pump impeller and plugs for my 105 horse chrysler today. The guy at the marina told me they no longer make that cap and you will probally not find one anywhere. He did luckly have alot of stuff for chrysler motors. I guess they use to be a dealer for chrysler way back in the day. So for now I should be able to get most everything I might need.