Truck Overhaul Info!

Discussion in '4X4 Truck Talk and Repairs' started by TOPS, Aug 29, 2007.

  1. TOPS

    TOPS New Member

    Messages:
    4,099
    State:
    Cabot,Arkansas
    I have bought a truck very cheap and would like to overhaul/ rebuild the engine,what comes in an overhaul kit? grind the valves?-- A bud told me to do this!--How/where can i get this completed?-- Is there anything I should know? The truck has 207440 miles on it. 1995 F-150 5.0l.
     
  2. squirtspop

    squirtspop New Member

    Messages:
    968
    State:
    Glencoe, Arkansas
    Might be easier to just get a rebuilt short block and swap all your external parts onto it, starter, alternator, intake, exhaust and the like. Think you can order them thru most auto part houses. I don't know the cost tho.
     

  3. willcat

    willcat New Member

    Messages:
    2,463
    State:
    texas
    Top, if u buy a short block & change everything over to it, that truck will be running forever, they should've never done away with that engine, it was the best one in my opinion as far as v'8s go. it's fairly inexpensive if u go that route because if u involve a machine shop it will cost some money, not to mention that u might have to bore out that old tired out block,good luck buddy
     
  4. TOPS

    TOPS New Member

    Messages:
    4,099
    State:
    Cabot,Arkansas
    Please do not laugh at me I am not mechanically inclined as a matter of fact am mechanically challenged. What come with/in? a short block? All help greatly appreciated.:embarassed::embarassed:
     
  5. jason454ci

    jason454ci Active Member

    Messages:
    1,307
    State:
    Zanesville, Ohi
    A short block would include block, crankshaft, oil pump, connecting rods, and pistons. It may also include a timing chain, camshaft and lifters. My suggestion would be a long block. Which would include all of the above plus cylinder heads, push rods, and rocker arms. With that kind of miles I wouldn't be slapping them old heads down on a short block if it were mine. With the long block you will just need to transfer the intake, flywheel, exhaust manifolds, balancer, accessories, and sensors from your old engine. A good quality re manufactured long block will probably run you in the $1500 range. Just remember you get what you pay for. Also check about the warranty coverage when looking into them. One other thing to remember if you do have it overhauled there is probably no warranty going that route.
     
  6. Rastus

    Rastus Active Member

    Messages:
    158
    State:
    North Central, Missouri
    i purchased a 305 (5.0liter??) long block a couple of yrs ago b/c it came with a better warranty and the cylinder heads, valves were already to go. They don't come with: valve, oil, thermostate, timing chain covers : intake or exhaust manifolds : oil, water pumps : distrubutor that has to be timed when installed: front accessory brackets nor the accessories. At the time I also used new spark plugs and wires, exhaust manifold bolts, distrubator cap, and a bunch of nickel and dime stuff.
    I taped off the block for painting and used a paint thinner to wipe it down and painted it, didn't use primer and it is starting to peal off recently. If the A/C has to be disconected to pull the engine that will be another added cost of recharging it.
     
  7. Rastus

    Rastus Active Member

    Messages:
    158
    State:
    North Central, Missouri
    207,000 miles hummm how long do you expect that transmission to hold up, just an afterthought:eek:oooh:
     
  8. TOPS

    TOPS New Member

    Messages:
    4,099
    State:
    Cabot,Arkansas
    Thanks guys for the replies, would it be cheaper to get another truck? probably!! This truck is what I always wonted. The tuck is an XLT which has power seats. power mirrors, power windows, power door locks,cruse, air, overdrive, duel gas tanks, diamond plated chrome tool box, bed liner, all for $700.00 yes it needs work, I hope to get it going soon!
     
  9. vfourmax

    vfourmax New Member

    Messages:
    251
    State:
    Va
    Personally my thoughts if you are not comfortable with your mechanical prowness the long block would be your best bet, probably in the 1400.00-1500.00 range for the engine with a 3 year unlimited mileage warranty from auto zone. Figure another few hundred as you will want to replace water pump, belts, hoses, plugs, wires ect so for 2000.00 or less viola new engine! Sounds like a lot in one sense but if you like the truck and want to keep it only figures out to be about 4 months worth of payments on a new truck, not to mention the cheaper taxes and insurance!
    Granted someone mentioned the transmission having the same mileage but if you are fortunate perhaps it will be several years before you need to shell out another 1500.00-1800.00 to replace it. Still a lot cheaper to own than a new one and if the truck is nice as the time passes it will catch more attention than the new ones. Everybody really appreciates seeing 15-20 year old super clean trucks it seems.
     
  10. Mark J

    Mark J New Member

    Messages:
    9,407
    State:
    Four Oaks, NC
    I've had good luck with the Chevy long blocks over the years.
    The manufacturers warranties used to be better on those engines then on a new car but I think they've since dropped those down some.

    I know the Chevy long blocks used to carry a 3 year 50,000 mile warranty.
    They didnt warranty the labor unless they dealer installed it although I did have a cylinder start pumping oil on a 350 once within days of the 3 year warranty. The dealer slapped a new engine in it and zeroed out the bill even though I had installed the previous engine myself.

    I didnt complain:big_smile:

    What you'll find with Autozone when long block shopping is multiple choices.
    Choices on what company rebuilt it and the prices will be different between all of them.
    Some of those rebuild companies reuse pistons , cranks etc while others replace. You often get what you pay for.

    I personally have more faith in an engine sold out of a dealership for several reasons, one being I can climb the food chain on a dealership alot easier then I could dealing with 1 Autozone store manager in a sea of Autozone managers and stores if I have a problem with the product.
    The dealership I deal with has a warehouse with engines for just about any car or truck on the shelf. I dont have to wait.
    If I have a problem with the engine under warranty I can get the vehicle to the dealer and let them figure it out and fix it.
    The autozone route you'll be stuck swapping engines again at your expense and or time.
     
  11. TOPS

    TOPS New Member

    Messages:
    4,099
    State:
    Cabot,Arkansas
    How in the heck do you disconnect the fuel lines at the engine? Is there a trick to it?
     
  12. jason454ci

    jason454ci Active Member

    Messages:
    1,307
    State:
    Zanesville, Ohi
    There is a spring in the line that holds them together that has to be released. Go to the local parts store and buy the disconnect tools. They usually come in a pack of four and will do fuel and a/c lines. You can pick them up pretty cheap. There is a spring in the line that holds them together that has to be released.
     
  13. willcat

    willcat New Member

    Messages:
    2,463
    State:
    texas
    u can get them tools at most auto parts stores like above mentioned, they look like split circles of plastic that you spread open & put around the line in front of the clip & pull back, then it'll release
     
  14. Big Sam

    Big Sam Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,344
    State:
    Booneville AR
    Name:
    Sam
    Top call fliteline motor in ft, smith Ar 479- 646-4771. They build long blocks, short blocks, grind heads, sell rebuild kits etc. Should be around 1200.00 for a long block with a good gaurntee. I have bought from them before with no problems.:wink:
     
  15. Houdini

    Houdini New Member

    Messages:
    17
    State:
    Maryland
    Hows the trans, when changing to a new motor to an ole trans , thats usually the next thing to go. A good motor can ruin a weak trans. ole trucks are nice, but sometines they nickle & dime the heck out of you. Good Luck on your rebuild.
     
  16. Creteus

    Creteus New Member

    Messages:
    1,030
    State:
    Loganville, GA
    I'm going to throw my two cents in on the rebulit engines. In my experiance they suck. I put 5 454's in my K3500 and there was a problem with all of them. One of them the shop installed and cranked it up and oil poured out of every part. The thing had no seals in it. One of the shops employees actually quit over that truck. Bottom line is all the ones that was purchesed had some sort of problem and they came from different vendors. They may have a warranty but that warranty does not cover labor, read the fine print. I feel the best bet for anyone, and its only an opinion is to rebilt your own or get a low milage engine out of a junkyard. A rebuild kit comes with all seals, bearings, rings and parts needed to get you running for round 350 bucks. A machinme shop can give you a valve job for about $135 a head. Junkyard engines come with more than a long block, is already broke in and was put together by the factory. Its the way I would go. Either way good luck and I hope however you choose to go it'll work out.
     
  17. crazy cathunter

    crazy cathunter New Member

    Messages:
    40
    State:
    ohio
    There are two different styles of tools to disconnect the spring lock connectors. One style is made of high strength plastic and they are used for air conditioner hoses and come in four sizes. The other is made of metal and is used for fuel lines, which has only two sizes. I would get the metal tool which you can get as a multi tool and has both sizes on it, one on each end. The reason i say to get the metal tool is because you will get the size you need and fuel lines have a tendency to corrode at the connection which can make them difficult to separate. Dont be afraid to be forceful when inserting the tool and twist the line slightly as you pull outward. Also do not forget to change the two O-rings on the insert line as this will save you from a fuel leak down the road. I hope this helps ,if you have any trouble feel free to contact me i am glad to help.
     
  18. catfish kenny

    catfish kenny New Member

    Messages:
    6,064
    State:
    Iowa
    Tops I wish you wasnt all the way down there I am a back yard mechanic and WE could roll that truck in my garage to swap the motor wich ever route you decide to go,IF it was me and I had the money I would go get a crate motor from autozone though.If I have it figured right it is gonna cost the same either way,I have 3 78/79 Ford 100 and I have been thinking about diong a ground up on one but I am not commited yet......I have a block on a engine stand.............
     
  19. TOPS

    TOPS New Member

    Messages:
    4,099
    State:
    Cabot,Arkansas
    I made this thread back in 2007, still have not got the truck work yet, As i said before I am NOT a mechanic, my son-in-law works on it when he gets good and ready. I am so sick of this!

    The truck is very close to try to start!
     
  20. BIG_D

    BIG_D New Member

    Messages:
    8,107
    State:
    Batchtown IL.
    Top i know how you feel when you have to depend on some one else it is a pain in the A$$