Treating a deck

Discussion in 'General Conversation' started by Phil Washburn, Jun 8, 2009.

  1. Phil Washburn

    Phil Washburn New Member

    Messages:
    7,680
    State:
    Shawnee OK
    i need to treat my wooden deck. it is covered and about 25ft long. wood floors and rail. i want to paint it, but the wife wants it sealed.

    someone tell me the best product for my buck to use please:big_smile:
     
  2. tnvol

    tnvol New Member

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    469
    State:
    Clarksvill
    Thompsons Water Sealer is what I've always used.
     

  3. tyrupp

    tyrupp New Member

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    306
    State:
    Ellis,Kans
    What ever you do don't paint it, unless you like scrapping paint every year and repainting. I have been a painter for 20 years, get a product call cwf uv, they sell it at true value hardware stores. I like their oil base cwf but they have a latex base sealer out now ( I have never used it) . I apply it with a weed sprayer. It lasts for 2 or 3 years and you don't have to scrape before redoing
     
  4. Phil Washburn

    Phil Washburn New Member

    Messages:
    7,680
    State:
    Shawnee OK
    thanks, Ty..is CWF better than thompsons?
     
  5. tyrupp

    tyrupp New Member

    Messages:
    306
    State:
    Ellis,Kans
    They're both good,but I think the cwf makes the water bead up better and lasts a little longer, the price for either one is about the same
     
  6. postbeetle

    postbeetle New Member

    Messages:
    6,598
    State:
    Iowa
    Was gonna jump in here Phil but misinterpreted your question. I am dyslexic. Don't have a clue about decks. SRY.

    Could give you some help on other types of woodies though. Polishing, staining, treating, waterproofing. Just general stuff.

    I am a Dr ya know. Heheh.
     
  7. catfishcentral

    catfishcentral New Member

    Messages:
    1,497
    State:
    OK
    Phil,

    You have several ways to go a Thompsoms type clear water seal needs almost a yearly treatment. Then you have stains you have a semi transparent and a soild stain. The semi still shows the grain where the soild covers all the grain. The difference between a stain and a paint is the stain goes into the wood whereas the paint sits on top. Even with a solid stain the stain still allows for the feel and texture of the wood where a paint doesn't.

    Clear water seal needs treatmean every year or two
    Semi transparent stain 3 to 5 years
    Soild stain 5 plus years.

    Cabot makes some really good stain from the clear stuff to semi and solid.

    Usually people start with a clear or semi transparent stain and as the deck ages go to a more opaque color. If you have a brand new deck...pressure treated you need to wait a year or lightly sand it before any kind of treatment.
     
  8. Phil Washburn

    Phil Washburn New Member

    Messages:
    7,680
    State:
    Shawnee OK
    i really like polyurethane, but it is 30$ per gallon vs 75 bucks for 5 gallons of thompsons.it will take 5 gallons for this job.:eek:oooh: 7 years ago i did the deck with poly, but even being covered it is exposed to a lot of uv from the sun. that stuff is pretty pricey to not last any longer than that.

    the wife is complaining about a splinter she got barefoot on the deck a couple of months ago. thompsons isn't gonna help that unless i sand first, and that is a lot of sanding....i am leaning towards the poly:sad2:
     
  9. catfishcentral

    catfishcentral New Member

    Messages:
    1,497
    State:
    OK
    Your made of money aren't you Phil......?....just tear out that old deck and put one of those new composite decks in. :big_smile:
     
  10. CuzICan

    CuzICan New Member

    Messages:
    1,751
    State:
    Fayetteville, A
    Well Phil, I'll come over there and walk around on it barefooted and get another splinter and help your wife complain and you'll get that done in a hurry. LOL! Be glad to help her out with that much needed improvement...Can't have folks getting splinters!
     
  11. 40oz

    40oz New Member

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    261
    State:
    Gun Barrel Tx
    use thompson's or some linseed oil
     
  12. sscharlie

    sscharlie Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    8,183
    State:
    Illinois
    Name:
    Stan
    Phil, try some garlic juice, black pepper and some red koolaid for color. If ya don't like the red color, try grapejuice instead...lol
     
  13. Cattn-Jeep

    Cattn-Jeep New Member

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    236
    State:
    NC
  14. SkipEye

    SkipEye Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    7,525
    State:
    Winfield, MO
    Name:
    Darryl
    You will need to power wash the deck first and to do it right you should strip it also. (Scrub brushes required here to get it all)Then use a wood brightener/reconditioner, forget what it's called but it also neutralizes the stripper.

    I quit using the CWF because it is such a pain to re-do.

    I ended up going with Cabot's Australian Timber Oil. It is expensive at $30 a gallon but it goes much further having the consistency of water so it easily goes into every nook and cranny, goes on much faster. The best part is you will not need to strip the deck again for re-application, merely a good power wash and recoat in a few years.

    It really brings out the natural color of the wood that I have been trying to achieve instead of the 'colored' look of the pigmented CWF.

    I am using it on Cedar, not sure of your deck material but the Timber Oil is GOOD STUFF!
     
  15. bluejay

    bluejay Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    8,494
    State:
    Napoleon, Mo.
    I used the Valspar Severe Weather wood protector last time. It is a wood sealant in the clear finish. On it's 4th year and needs to be redone due to the sun. I have tried the Thompsons and will not use it again. Only lasted about a year.
     
  16. Phil Washburn

    Phil Washburn New Member

    Messages:
    7,680
    State:
    Shawnee OK
    already done the power wash, Darryl. i am borrowing a belt sander from my cousin and i will clean up the rough spots tomorrow. since it is somewhat spotty, colorwise, i will probably use a sealer that has a stain in it to even out the looks a little. still not sure what i am going to use. if the sanding works well, i will probably not go with poly...just use a sealer. thanks to all of you for your advice. i appreciate it much.
     
  17. SkipEye

    SkipEye Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    7,525
    State:
    Winfield, MO
    Name:
    Darryl
    If the color is spotty that just means you should strip it once and for all, then go with the Timber Oil.

    A ton of work but it will pay off.

    Now GET TO WORK PHIL!!!!!!!!!:smile2:

    I had to do it last year and it sucked......now it's your turn!
     
  18. Phil Washburn

    Phil Washburn New Member

    Messages:
    7,680
    State:
    Shawnee OK
    now skippy, you know i AIN'T into manual labor:smile2:
     
  19. flathead willie

    flathead willie Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,241
    State:
    Virginia
    I've done three of them in the last month. I use Cabots 3000 seal/stain. I always brush it on so I get better protection by making sure it gets down in all the cracks.
     
  20. Iowa_Josh

    Iowa_Josh New Member

    Messages:
    1,463
    State:
    Central Iowa
    In the middle of a deck isn't the place to get to know a belt sander. You want a random orbit sander.