Transom mounted transducer

Discussion in 'Boating' started by nitronostrils, Aug 2, 2009.

  1. nitronostrils

    nitronostrils New Member

    Messages:
    292
    State:
    IL
    For right now I have a suction cup mount and everytime I move to another spot I look back and see the transducer following behind me about 15 ft...it's getting old. Anyways I have the hardware to mount it through the transom, what are some important tips/tricks to install this without it leaking in the future. Thought about mounting it on the TM up front, but the FF is mounted in back and that's where I spend the most time so I nixed that idea. Just don't want it to leak. Thanks.

    Have the following:

    1. transom hardware
    2. tools
    3. full tube of sealant
    4. some common sense......but not alot.:tounge_out:
     
  2. outdoors1988

    outdoors1988 New Member

    Messages:
    213
    State:
    Oklahoma
    What i did is when i started the screws i backed them out and put cilicone in the holes then screwed it on and put cilicone on the inside and out. Hope this helps
     

  3. CatHunter24

    CatHunter24 New Member

    Messages:
    715
    State:
    Dayton, Ohio
    I did pretty much the same thing. Drilled Holes, put in silicone and then the screws siliconed around the screw heads. Just make sure to get the transducer lined up so it reads correctly and doesn't get cavitation and interference.....it can be a pain to get it level and flush.
     
  4. Grimpuppy

    Grimpuppy New Member

    Messages:
    3,556
    State:
    Concordia, KS
    Use a transducer mounting plate. That way you only have 2 holes in your transom to mount the plate. Then if you have to move your transducer or get a different graph you don't have to drill new holes in the transom and patch the old ones.

    http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/s...-6519-DE11-B0EA-001422107090&mr:referralID=NA


    Here is one from BPS. You can get them about anywhere that sells boating gear or make your own if you have access to about any thick plastic block.
     
  5. catfishinsc

    catfishinsc New Member

    Messages:
    507
    State:
    SC
    Use 3M 5200 around the screws. It's expensive, and you won't need but probably 1/20 of the smallest tube, and then the rest will probably go to waste, but it is well worth the cost. Used to use caulking from the hardware store and it wouldn't last long. Never had to redo anything sealed with the 5200.

    That transducer mounting bracket is not a bad idea. I've never seen anything like that before, but if I ever install another transducer I'm going to use one.
     
  6. gtva

    gtva Member

    Messages:
    81
    State:
    Bassett, VA
    I found a mount at Cabelas that clamps onto the transom. Heavy extruded aluminum, no holes, adjustable for different transom heights.
    Greg
     
  7. nitronostrils

    nitronostrils New Member

    Messages:
    292
    State:
    IL
    From what I understand at 3Ms website this 5200 is an adhesive plus a sealant, if its an adhesive wouldn't that eleminate using screws? Or am I guessing its more of a sealant?
     
  8. nanookofthenish

    nanookofthenish New Member

    Messages:
    29
    State:
    sw iowa
    Jeremy...I might have missed it, but what kind of boat rig are you running? I run a 16 ft lowe flat bottom that I've made an external transducer mount that will swivel away and not break if you hit a log or sandbar. I can post pics of it if you want. With my old fishfinder setup on the same boat I had the transducer epoxied right to the inside bottom of the hull, under the rear bench and out of the way, and that worked good too. I only changed to the external mount because I thought the new unit might be more accurate reading through water only. I retrospect, it did'nt seem to matter a whole lot. Let me know if you want, and I'll try to check back.
     
  9. catfishinsc

    catfishinsc New Member

    Messages:
    507
    State:
    SC
    It does have adhesive qualities, but for something like a transducer that going to have pressure against it (i.e. water pushing against it at high speeds), it's always best to have a mechanical means (screws, bolts, etc.) to hold it on. I've never tried it, but you could probably just glue it on there with the 5200, but it may come loose. I just 5200 mostly just as a sealant to seal around any screw going in the boat. It's the best stuff I've ever found for marine use, especially for something that's going to spend a significant amount of time underwater.
     
  10. nitronostrils

    nitronostrils New Member

    Messages:
    292
    State:
    IL
    Dave floating around in a Lowe 1448 semi V, when you have time post a picture of your set up. Thanks.

    Tom your correct, wasn't thinking this morning when posting just tired from work but will use the 3m sealant on the application.
     
  11. StuBone278

    StuBone278 New Member

    Messages:
    625
    State:
    south central Louisiana
    For a jon boat you can use a big C-clamp, piece of PVC attached to the c-clamp, and mount the transducer on that. Then get all of the battery and unit and put it in a small tacklebox or something convenient. A truly mobile and dependable sonar system. Once you learn an area, just leave it at home!
     
  12. nanookofthenish

    nanookofthenish New Member

    Messages:
    29
    State:
    sw iowa
    Yo Jeremy- I took some cell phone pixs of what I was talking about earlier, just haven't got them put on the net here yet. Busy, getting ready for a river trip this weekend again. By the way, I saw pixs of your boat on another thread, and I gotta ask... was the damage to your boat one heck of a whiskey dent, or what?!? Later
     
  13. nitronostrils

    nitronostrils New Member

    Messages:
    292
    State:
    IL
    Dave no problem on the pictures filled the void with another small project. The other boat was taken for a ride by a twister this past May.