Trailer Weight Rating

Discussion in 'Boating' started by JPritch, Apr 5, 2007.

  1. JPritch

    JPritch New Member

    Messages:
    1,852
    State:
    Lynchburg, VA
    Should I take into account my weight (250lbs) when walking around on the boat while it's trailered when deciding on the proper trailer to buy?

    I'm looking at a boat that comes with a trailer that leaves about 100lbs extra capacity after I account for the weight of the boat, battery, motor, full fuel and gear. Do I need to get a bigger trailer?

    I know the weight capacities are on there for a reason, but not sure if the limited time I would be walking around on the boat (ie cleaning, installing something), would be enough to cause problems.


    Thanks for the help everyone.
     
  2. smhmc6

    smhmc6 Member

    Messages:
    744
    State:
    Kansas
    JPritch,

    I don't claim to know much about boats or trailers. Wont have the money to own one until I'm out of school. Anway, with that being said, I am an engineering student. My best guess is that when they give load ratings for trailers they are more worried about it failing due to fatigue. This means that it is more likely that if it is overloaded while driving on the highway, that the bearings in the axle or something will wear and will cause those type problems. I wouldn't be worried about something like the axle snapping or something when you get in it to load or unload the boat or something. These load ratings are probably for when you are driving it around and the axle experiences the repeated bending over a long period of time. As long as you are not exceeding the load limit while driving on the highway and around town, you should be fine. If you are worried about getting in the boat while launching or something like loading and unloading the boat, the trailer will not break. It would probably take more then a thousand more pounds to actually break it statically (permanently bend axels, snap them... etc.). I hope this helps, but take in mind that I don't know much about trailers or boats... just a little about how they design them.
     

  3. Mark J

    Mark J New Member

    Messages:
    9,407
    State:
    Four Oaks, NC
    I would probally step up a notch just for the sake of the axle and hubs.
    Turn a corner a little short dragging one wheel through a pot hole will show what a trailer is made of.
    I've done that very thing and broke the hooks on the tie down strap. The trailer suffered no damage.
    Buddy of mine did the same with his. Bent a wheel and an axle.

    If you dont trailer much you might be alright with what you are talking about.
    Bad roads are bad on trailers and boats.
     
  4. duxsrus

    duxsrus New Member

    Messages:
    1,014
    State:
    SW Ohio
    100#'s would be a little too close for my liking too. My last boat had a 3500# trailer under it and I know the boat went less than a ton. I wish my new boat had that much margin. I probably only have a 500# margin now.
     
  5. Mickey

    Mickey New Member Supporting Member

    Messages:
    14,592
    State:
    Illinois
    Play it save and save future headaches and precious fishing time. I would request at least a 3500# rated axle. I have three rigs and they all have this 3500# rating. Never had a problem.:lol: :big_smile:
     
  6. fishhook

    fishhook New Member

    Messages:
    658
    State:
    Willow Woo
    I think most trailers are rated by spring strength, tire size and plies as to how much weight it will carry. I would buy a trailer that is rated for at least 1000lb more then what the boat weights and the cost is not hardly any difference. That way you won't have to worry whether you're overloading the trailer or not with whatever equipment you put on your boat.
     
  7. badkarma

    badkarma New Member

    Messages:
    772
    State:
    Oxford,Miss
    I've been over loading trailers past their factory rating for 40 years and I ain't broke one down yet.They always under rate a trailers hauling weight to keep down the law suits.