Trailer bearing replacement - couldn't get old races out

Discussion in 'Other Repairs' started by JAinSC, Mar 2, 2009.

  1. JAinSC

    JAinSC Active Member

    Messages:
    1,514
    State:
    South Carolina
    I replaced and repacked the bearing in my trailer this weekend. Everything went smoothly enough, no problems.

    Only thing is, I could not get the original races out of the hub to replace them, so I left them and just put in the new bearings (after packing them with grease) and greased up the whole works.

    How important is it to replace the old/original races when replacing the bearings? The originals seemed fine: no grooving or noticeable wear. I would have liked to replace them since I was replacing the bearings, but they just would not budge.
     
  2. Mickey

    Mickey New Member Supporting Member

    Messages:
    14,592
    State:
    Illinois
    Its recommended by the bearing company to replace the race and bearing together. The only problem you should have it will just shorten the life of the new bearing. Keep them well greased .
     

  3. psychomekanik

    psychomekanik New Member

    Messages:
    2,534
    State:
    Illinois
    They should be replaced as sets. They wear together like a chain and sprocket. It can be worse to replace the bearings without the races than it would be to continue to use the old ones. I'd change them before you got too many miles on it. Starting from the most accesible side, use a flat drift type punch and punch them out from the backside. work from side to side to "walk" them out straight. If you tried to get them out unsuccessfully, you may have loosened them and now they need reseated. If this is the case when you tighten the bearings everything will seem o-k till they reseat themselves. Then your bearings will be loose. Keep an eye on them or take them back apart and replace them. If needed, try a little heat around the outside of the hub..
     
  4. justwannano

    justwannano Active Member

    Messages:
    1,003
    State:
    SE Iowa
    Tap them out using the physo's method . That race is hard and could damage your hub if it gets badly wedged. Sooner or later it will come.
    Personally, unless you are hauling your boat for hundreds of miles at a time I wouldn't worry about it. Those bearings and races are made to be used on over the road vehicles (cars and trucks) and the little wear a boat trailer gets probably won't damage them soon. Your greatest problem will be water and the resultant rust. Keep them well greased.

    Have a good one
    just
     
  5. JAinSC

    JAinSC Active Member

    Messages:
    1,514
    State:
    South Carolina
    I tried to push them out form the back side with a screwdriver and hammer and then with a piece of pipe and the hammer - they did not even budge a bit. I thought about heating the hub to maybe loosen them a bit, but I didn't have a torch... The back edge of the races had just a tiny edge to it, so there wasn't much to push against.

    I never put the trailer wheels in the water - the boat slides right off the trailer when I get to the river (silicone spray on the bunks - great stuff!), and I drive it part way up on the way in, and then crank it up the rest of the way, so there's no water in the hubs. (I say "no water" but the grease on one side was a bit gray from water getting in - I think the inner grease seal on that side was a bit loose - there was also grease on the inside of that hub...)

    I take the boat on the road about every 2 weeks average for the whole year, and my typical trip is probably a bit under 100 miles round trip, so I'm guessing I put about 2000 miles a year on the trailer. I'm not going to take the works apart again now, but I'll keep an eye on 'em for the next few trips for sure: make sure the hubs don't get loose or heat up while traveling.
     
  6. cathooked

    cathooked New Member

    Messages:
    437
    State:
    north carolina
    Yeah its best ya try to change em you can beat the hell out of them their gonna be replaced anyway,but ya might have to invest in a porpane torch and heat em up a bit..
     
  7. jkm4874ford

    jkm4874ford New Member

    Messages:
    115
    State:
    Bowling Green,
    I have had to use a Dremel Tool grind the race to cut it out. I would keep a close eye on them thoo
     
  8. blackwaterkatz

    blackwaterkatz Active Member

    Messages:
    3,659
    State:
    Andrews, SC
    John, you'll be ok, I think. Next time, look around your area; some of the (mostly smaller, local) parts stores (NAPA can do it here) and small machine shops will press those parts out for you for just a little, maybe even less if you buy the parts from them.
    I've replaced literally tons of bearings, and it is recommended to replace both cup and cone, but if you didn't have any more wear than you stated, you should be just fine, as long as you packed them well and torqued the nut properly. :wink:
     
  9. catman-j

    catman-j New Member

    Messages:
    1,020
    State:
    Eastern Nebr
    heat them up. If you don't have a torch put them on the propane grill and simmer.:eek:oooh:
     
  10. JAinSC

    JAinSC Active Member

    Messages:
    1,514
    State:
    South Carolina
    Speaking of the cap nut ...

    I tightened down pretty good (to make sure I had everything seated well), then backed off enough so the wheel would spin freely without any wiggle room for the hub. Does that sound right? I figured that after the first trip or two I would check them again to make sure they hadn't loosened any as they settled in.
     
  11. 223reload

    223reload New Member

    Messages:
    10,798
    State:
    Oklahoma
    I have never had a problem removing old races,Sometimes ya just need a bigger hammer:wink:I use a drift punch and a 4 lb hammer,some are just stubborn,They will come out if ya keep at it,And if you break one,you were replacing it anyway.
     
  12. cantstopgrandma

    cantstopgrandma New Member

    Messages:
    955
    State:
    MD

    Ah, yes! Everyone's tool kit should always include a BFH (Big Freaking Hammer), no matter how limited the amount of tools you own.
     
  13. blackwaterkatz

    blackwaterkatz Active Member

    Messages:
    3,659
    State:
    Andrews, SC
    That should do it, John, and just remember to check them again, like you said.
     
  14. Wabash River Bear

    Wabash River Bear New Member

    Messages:
    3,019
    State:
    Indiana
    Yes, always replace the races when replacing bearings. The easiest way to remove stubborn races is to use a small dia welding rod and weld a bead around the inside of the race where the bearing would ride. The intense heat and weld bead will shrink the race when it cools, you can literally weld the bead, fip it over on the bench walk away from it for 10 minuts and when you come back the race will be laying on the table.

    I dont like driving races in and out of hubs, use the opposite to install the new races, throw the races in the freezer. They tap in real lightly and as they warm the clearances close up.