tempermental outboard

Discussion in 'Bubba's Outboards' started by sambo, Nov 4, 2007.

  1. sambo

    sambo New Member

    Messages:
    59
    State:
    alabama
    :confused2: hi im new to the brotherhood i was hoping someone out there could lend me some advice. Irecently purchased a pontoon boat that has an 88 hp evinrude outboard . my problem is when i accelerate to wide open throttle the motor dies. this is the only time this happens , the motor runs fine until i accelerate to wide open throttle. if anyone out there knows what could possibly cause this please respond
     
  2. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    There are a number of things that can cause that. The timing advance could be hanging and the advance circuitery in the fireing system could be bad.
    You need to get a manuel and do the system check described in the manuel.
     

  3. sambo

    sambo New Member

    Messages:
    59
    State:
    alabama
    Thanks bubbakat i have a manual but it doesnt cover my year motor and it is almost easier to learn to do open heart surgery than to understand what the manual is saying . do you have any suggestions on an easy to understand manual:eek:oooh:
     
  4. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    I use only shop manuels for each specfied motor myself but you are looking at 150 to 200 dollar manuels. I do have a couple seloc and clymer manuels but to me I like the seloc best but they are written with the thought that you have some knowledge of you engne.
    Now describe to me excatly to a T what thet engine is doing and what it sounds and acts like when it shuts down.
    The first thing I would recommend doing is a compression check and a spark test.
    I would check all fuel system lines and if the rubber hoses are 2 years old I would replace every one of them. Make sure you have the right plugs. Make sure the fuel pick up line inside the tank is good. I have seen them with little cracks at the outlet fitting inside the tank and will reak havoc on you at top end. or when trying to throttle up. Don't think because it looks good that it is take it off and look inside the hose it will come apart inside before it shows any age on the outside. I bought a new tank for my toon and went to the river and first thing out of the hole 15 min into the trip she went to failing on me. I knew all the fuel lines were goo because I had replaced them so I went to the tank and the pick up tube was a disaster. Nerver take nothing on an outboard for granted.
    Pull the ground wires loos from the coils to the block and clean each and every one of them and reinstall and cover the ends with liquid tape. I have seen the ground wire on a coil loose and croded give people a fit.
     
  5. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    Oh BTW on understanding a manuel all I can suggest is read it and then reread it and ask questions. This is how I learned to work on these old motors. I knew a guy that had a shop and he got free labor for info and I use to make him mad as hades but he would keep answering none the less.:big_smile:
     
  6. sambo

    sambo New Member

    Messages:
    59
    State:
    alabama
    Well, bubbakat i bought the boat from a fellow who lives on the river . He just docked the boat on the bank there behind his house . when i bought it we had to run up river about 6 miles to the boat ramp . It would run fine until it got opened up good then it would just shut down . The old guy would shoot a shot of starting fluid in it then fire it up and off we went as soon as it would get above what sounded like 2500 rpm it would start to stumble and if i let off it just alittle it would stay running . it didnt really sound funny at all it ran smoothly until around 2500 to 3000 rpms . i will check the tanks for any foreign matter but thankfully they are stainless so i dont have the rust problem . So you are saying the tank hose could be deteriorated and when the boat is unlevel the hose is not in the fuel causing the boat to run out of gas . also about the starting fluid i know it is not good to use on a two stroke , so i dont use it . Once you use it the motor becomes addicted to it . hey thanks for all the usefull info.
     
  7. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    I do think you will need to go through those carbs I would redo all the fuel lines first and then try it.
     
  8. sambo

    sambo New Member

    Messages:
    59
    State:
    alabama
    yeah, i had planned on doing that before i put it back on the river. they are probally simple in design all i can do is tear them down and put them back together , and hope it will run with out all those spare springs and screws.
     
  9. vlparrish

    vlparrish New Member

    Messages:
    1,276
    State:
    Bedford, Kentucky
    Sam, Carbs are a jiffy to fix. I would buy a kit for each carb. The kit will come with a bunch of gaskets and most times will show how to install some of the parts. The kit will not however, usually come with new jets. The jets will be in the lower part of the float bowl and have a bigger nut over the end of the tube. If you want to replace the jets they will have to be ordered separately. You can take the plug out of the end and blow them out with air. also I would blow them out from both directions. The only other major rebuild on the carbs is the needle valve. pretty simple, just remove the float, remove the old valve. be sure and inspect the end of the old needle, see if the rubber tip is worn or has dirt on it. Dirt or damage could be the reason for the engine trouble. Unscrew the old seat, it usually takes a larger screwdriver for this. Replace the new seat. The seat will likely have an O-ring or similar gasket on the underside of the screw, be sure to install this. Then replace the new needle. It will usually come with a tiny metal clip to ensure the replaced valve will not stick. clip the round end onto the groove in the bottom of the valve and the flat side should slide over the tang of the float. replace the float and put it all back together. The carb should run like new. Vern
     
  10. AwShucks

    AwShucks New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    Guthrie, Oklaho
    Although the two previous experts didn't say it, they probably took it for granted that you were going to soak the carb parts in carb cleaner for a minimum of a few hours and preferably overnight. Another point is to only rebuild one carb at a time. Once you have the first one rebuilt, you can disassemble the second one before putting the first back on the motor. Most carbs look the same, but they are not. You should make it a practice to always put the carb back on the hole it came off of.. keeps your linkage correct and just easier all the way around. When you rebuild the carb and take it out of the cleaner, use an extremely fine wire to clean all small orifices. Take your time and you will be happy with the results.