Storage/Winterizing and Outboard motor

Discussion in 'Bubba's Outboards' started by AwShucks, Jun 22, 2008.

  1. AwShucks

    AwShucks New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    Guthrie, Oklaho
    With all the moisture the good Lord has seen fit to send my way, I'm at my wits end for something to do. I pulled out my SELOC Johnson/Evinrude Outboard book and started reading. I know I've seen the subject matter of this thread discussed on the board several times, but it was always by word of mouth. So, here it is verbatim from the Seloc manual, 1971- 1989. 1 & 2 Cylinder, Tune-up and repair manual, pages 4-4 and 4-5.

    Would you believe, a majority of starting troubles, which are traced to the fuel system, are the results of an empty fuel tank or aged fuel.
    Fuel will begin to sour in three to four months and will cause engine starting problems. Therefore, leaving the motor setting idle with fuel in the carburetor, lines, or tank during the off season, usually results in very serious problems. A fuel additive, such as Sta-Bil may be used to prevent gum from forming during storage or prolong idle periods.
    For many years there has been the widespread belief that simply shutting off the fuel at the tank and then running the engine until it stops is the proper procedure before storing the engine for any length of time. Right? WRONG!
    First it is NOT possible to remove all fuel in the carburetor by operating the engine until it stops. Considerable fuel will be trapped in the float chamber and other passages and in the line leading to the carburetor. The ONLY guaranteed method of removing ALL fuel is to take the time to remove the carburetor, and drain the fuel.
    Secondly, if the engine is operated with the fuel supply shut off until it stops the fuel and oil mixture inside the engine is removed, leaving bearings, pistons. rings, and other parts without any protective lubricant.
    Proper procedures involves: Shutting off the fuel supply at the tank, disconnecting the fuel line at the tank, operating the engine until it begins to run ROUGH, then stopping the engine, which will leave some fuel/oil mixture inside, and finally removing and draining the carburetor. By disconnecting the fuel supply, all SMALL passages are cleared of fuel even though some fuel is left in the carburetor. A light oil should be put in the combustion chamber as instructed in the owner's manual. On some model carburetors, the high-speed orifice plug can be removed to drain the fuel from the carburetor.

    Boy, that was a lot. Guess I should say BubbaKat likes Seafoam in the fuel to help stabilize it and to clean the engine (I believe) and the use of a fogging oil after your last trip in the fall or before quitting for the year.
     
  2. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    Lawerance if you will look most carbs have a brass plug on the outer edge of the carb float body where you can drain the fuel. Oh BTW I use that sea foam just for those two reasons. and to rid my motor of carbon. I fog my cylinder walls with PB blaster.