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Discussion Starter #1
I have noticed an area in the floor of my Sea Pro is getting spongy. It is in the center of the floor over the fuel tank. It has two round access ports(one on each end of the soft spot). I have removed those and found that their are no supports through the area and the wood layer is water damaged and soft under the fiberglass. I am unsure how it should be repaired. I am open to suggestions or recommendations of shops that handle fiberglass work.
 

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I have the sea pro DC and my floor is a little weak as well in that area. I know one day it will have to be fixed the best method is to remove the rub rail and split the boat. ( Remove the top from the bottom ) then flip the top portion over and replace the plywood
 

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Steve from Mississippi
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Is it where you can just cut that section out and replace it with an access hatch that is rated to be stood on. There are lots of good waterproof structural hatches made in different sizes available. Measure the hole opening you need to cut out and get a hatch with a hole cutout opening that big or bigger.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Is it where you can just cut that section out and replace it with an access hatch that is rated to be stood on. There are lots of good waterproof structural hatches made in different sizes available. Measure the hole opening you need to cut out and get a hatch with a hole cutout opening that big or bigger.
I love that ideal as a hatch would grant access to the fuel tank and sending unit.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I have the sea pro DC and my floor is a little weak as well in that area. I know one day it will have to be fixed the best method is to remove the rub rail and split the boat. ( Remove the top from the bottom ) then flip the top portion over and replace the plywood
Yep that is a shop repair. Will have to find a shop that will do it. Then find the money to get it done if that’s the only route. It sounds VERY EXPENSIVE.....:eek1:
 

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Jonathan, I just bought a 20' SeaArk Rivercat and cut out a section of the rear lid that covered the battery compartment because it was binding the steering cables. The back lip that I cut out had a "U" shaped bend that gave it structural strength. The lid would bend in a lot without the support. I went to Home Depot and bought 3 sections of aluminum box tubing (1"x2" hollow with a square cross-sectional shape). I then attached those to the under side of the lid with Liquid nails and stainless screws and it is rock solid.
If you can buy some aluminum box or "U shaped aluminum tubing and run it thru the access holes; you can drill holes thru the fiberglass floor and into the aluminum tubing for support. Just screw stainless screws thru some stainless washers and thru the fiberglass flooring and into the aluminum tubing for support.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Jonathan, I just bought a 20' SeaArk Rivercat and cut out a section of the rear lid that covered the battery compartment because it was binding the steering cables. The back lip that I cut out had a "U" shaped bend that gave it structural strength. The lid would bend in a lot without the support. I went to Home Depot and bought 3 sections of aluminum box tubing (1"x2" hollow with a square cross-sectional shape). I then attached those to the under side of the lid with Liquid nails and stainless screws and it is rock solid.
If you can buy some aluminum box or "U shaped aluminum tubing and run it thru the access holes; you can drill holes thru the fiberglass floor and into the aluminum tubing for support. Just screw stainless screws thru some stainless washers and thru the fiberglass flooring and into the aluminum tubing for support.
I will have to look into that ideal as my biggest concern is crushing through the floor.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
You can order high density plastics in various dimensions/thicknesses and cut the replacement panel yourself and save a few dollars. US Plastics and several others are online sources. A lot of them offer custom cut sizes.
 
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