Slowing The Drift When Catfishing Rivers

Discussion in 'Catfishing Library' started by Whistler, Aug 24, 2005.

  1. Whistler

    Whistler Well-Known Member

    Original post made by Vince Copple(Teamwhiskers) on December 14, 2004

    By TeamWhiskers Willie

    When cat fishing the rivers sometimes there is a need to cover more area. One technique I use is drifting thru the long holes. I have seen some of the best catmen utilize trolling motors and many times with success in luring in their prize catch. What if your trolling motor goes on the blink or you run out of power? What if you don’t have a trolling motor? The solution is simple and inexpensive.

    I employ a chain and rope. This is not just any ordinary bicycle or motorcycle chain. This is a chain with an attitude. The chain I use came off a big trencher that I found in a junk yard. This 8 foot section of heavy duty roller chain will do the job provided that you didn’t forget your rope.

    The length of chain should weigh around 20 to 25 pounds. Secure a loop of heavy duty wire or cable to one end and tape the end so that it is smooth. This will be the nose end. Attach the anchor rope to the nose and send it overboard. Depending on the current speed and river depth will determine how much rope you will need to let out. I use a 100 foot rope.

    The chain normally will not snag and will slow the boat to about half of current speed. If the chain does snag
    (it has only happened to me once) simply fire up the motor and go get it.

    When using this technique you can either bottom bounce or use a lighter weight and let the bait roll downstream behind the boat. This technique might not be for everybody, but it is something worth a try.
  2. gilmafam

    gilmafam Well-Known Member


    TW Willie,

    I'v been doing this technique for 20 years or more.... a good buddy says that in rivers where there are salmon, steelhead etc. it is not looked upon because of the spawning grounds..... we are cat men.... full speed ahead. In my boat I drift backwards with the chain at the front. As I sit near the back, I can use my other trolling motor to move left/right as needed. I can play out the rope as loops at intravals that quickly tie off for various changes in rope length.... I even have an emergency loop for stopping with the chain to stay put for fighting fish.

    I have a base length of chain, and depending on current, I snap on 1-2 additional 3 foot sections for more drag. I dont make it longer, just wider 3 feet from the end.

    Use the same process to go from hole to hole in a long run by playing out lots of rope. When its time to move up and get the chain, I fire up the big motor and idle up as I wind the rope on to my "Electrical extention cord reel". I move from spot to spot with the chain hanging off and under the boat. Dont forget to haul it in all the way when under full power.... really wakes you up.

  3. onlyriverfish

    onlyriverfish Active Member

    Ditto guys this metod does work in rivers. I can just turn my not- running outboard to control my direction very effectivly. Having just the right weight-drag and line length is critical.

    Personally this method "is not" my best method for producing, but I keep working to perfect it because I believe it could be the best.

    This method especially helps me to learn a new stretch faster and more thoroughly than any other.

    We could also share some methods of presentation re this method. Qty of rods used, line setups,etc....

    Biggest advantage I have found with this presentation is that keeping a VERY close eye on sonar I have found structure that would otherwise have been missed!

    I never use but one rod doing this so I can watch sonar and still work bait w/o looking.