skeg repair

Discussion in 'Bubba's Outboards' started by fishstick, Dec 7, 2009.

  1. fishstick

    fishstick New Member

    Messages:
    1,885
    State:
    Fouke, Arkansas
    i dragged my sons outboard motor skeg up the boat ramp and removed about 2 inches of aluminum from it. anyone had any experience with skeg guards as repair items. would it be better to just have someone weld the skeg and build it up back to specs?
     
  2. AwShucks

    AwShucks New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    Guthrie, Oklaho
    I'd say it depends on how much skeg you have left. My motor fell from the tilted position on a pot holed road. By the time I could stop, it looked like a skeg monster took a bite out of my skeg. There is a good 6 square inches missing. But it hasn't effected the operation of the motor one bit. Check your lower unit hub... if it is not cracked your motor is probably still okay. They have a bolt on skeg repair Kit on the INTERNET you can search for and if interested, order. As for me... heck, I don't need it...I have been told if your gonna weld on the skeg, you have to disassemble the lower unit gear housing. Heat messes up the bearings and seals.
     

  3. fishstick

    fishstick New Member

    Messages:
    1,885
    State:
    Fouke, Arkansas
    i thought the purpose of the skeg was to stick down farther than the prop to keep the prop from hitting something. i just bought a new stainless prop for my sons boat last summer and would hate for it to get messed up because of me dragging off part of the skeg.

    that's what i was wondering, if anyone has any experience with the bolt on skeg guards.
     
  4. Welder

    Welder New Member

    Messages:
    4,834
    State:
    Missouri
    Getting it built back up welding costs as much somtimes as just replacing the lower unit housing with a good skeg. Just call around to repair shops ect and go with someone ya trust or the lowest bidder. But as much as ya said ya lost I would consider a new lower unit housing. If ya shure you only lost 2 inchs off it ya might go with welding it back up but still the lower unit is gona have to come off and be disasembled to keep from fryen seals ect to do the job right.
     
    Last edited: Dec 7, 2009
  5. coolbreeze70

    coolbreeze70 New Member

    Messages:
    397
    State:
    tennessee
    Billy, check around at your local boat shops. I had mind pretty much gone from the shaft point down. It had only 1/2" to 3/4" remaining. The lower unit housing was going to cost 300 for a used one and the guy was going to charge me a grand total to swap. I thought that was to high. I looked on the internet and found places where you could send them and get repaired for around $300. I went to a different boat shop in town on some friends recomendation and was shocked. They pulled the unit off, took the guts out, had a guy come get it weld it up, and they reassembled it for $150. It was well worth it. I went out two times later while it was storming and ran over a chunk of 2' x 2' plywood that i didnt see. It jammed the motor and i shut it down. Raised it up and pulled it free. No damage. Not getting it repaired would have cost me $300 plus for a new prop. Like I said look around and get it repaired. Good luck
     
  6. fishstick

    fishstick New Member

    Messages:
    1,885
    State:
    Fouke, Arkansas
    yea thanks scott, i would like to get it fixed back to original if at all possible. thats the way i would want my motor fixed if my son had messed mine up. just the way i do business. i'll scout around for some estimates. regardless of the cost, i think the weld up would be the way to go.
     
  7. Jedicazador

    Jedicazador New Member

    Messages:
    213
    State:
    TN
    I was below the Cordel Hull dam water was a bit low and tore my SS prop and lower up, was looking for fixes and came across two. Here's the link for one http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j33-cNDAdf8 the other is a composite skeg that glues on the damaged one it's called black fin let me know what you think.
     
  8. AwShucks

    AwShucks New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    Guthrie, Oklaho
    Even with a full skeg, I'd have to really, really think about running a stainless steel prop on my boat. If I was in salt water, I possibly could see a SS prop, but not in inland waters. That aluminum is soft for a reason...it will generally break before you warp the shafts in the lower unit, or damage the lower unit quite extensively. But, If you are going to run SS,I'd bite the bullet and get a good skeg on the motor.