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Discussion in 'Terminal Tackle Review' started by Scott Daw, Oct 29, 2007.
I usually shore fish in a lake. what type & size weights do you recommend?
Scott its going to depend on what kind of rod and reel you use? I use a 2 or 3oz pyramid weights so when they bite and come towards me it still sets of my clickers. That is a Carolina style rig. I've been using abu 6000's on a 7ft ugly cat rods. I tried to use the disc type, but notice they were able to pull the weight side ways without setting the clickers off. This is what works for me.
I use medium heavy spinning gear Usually with chicken liver and the occassional small fish for bait.
if your wanting distance eggs will usually go further because of their shape. as far as size for a lake 2oz is plenty unless using bigger live baits. alot may depend on you you may cast a 1oz better than a 2 or 3 or you may send a 4oz to the other side of the lake. a 2or3 should work good:cool2:
he used cut bluegil and cought a couple 43 pound channels, basically a carolina rig :smile2:
i use this for shore fishing and can get about 60 yards
2/0, 3/0 hook
I use a 6" weighted slip float, then a swivel and the weights that are usually egg shape, and then another swivel and a 12" leader. I try for 3-4 ounces of weight total, with my float weights in at 1.5 ounces. My weights vary in weight due to the need.
I use a #2 circle hook or a #6 baitholder hook, depending if they are nibbling or biting. Then I might use 1-2 ounces of weights, it depends on how windy and far or if I'm using live bait.
I normally go after 2-3 pound channels or up to ten pound flats on this rig. It all depends on the season and water.
If I fish on the bottom, which is rarely, I use up to 4 ounces in a Carolina rig and live shad. I want the weight and line to stay put, but the bait to be able to swim and keep off the bottom.
If I'm setting up of a small lake, then I might just have about an ounce of split shot lined up with a swivel before and after, followed by my bait on a shorter lead.
My rule of thumb is to use as light a sinker as you can get by with. In a lake, you probably won't need too much weight to sink your bait (unless you're using live fish), but you may need more weight for casting distance, or simply because you are using heavy tackle. Example: Using a 1 ounce bait. A half ounce sinker will pull it to the bottom just fine with no current, and a spinning rod or light casting rig will probably cast it ok, but if you're using a heavy baitcast rig in anticipation of big fish, you may need a couple of ounces of weight just to be able to make decent casts. I've got a 14' custom built river rod that I don't like to try to cast with less than 4 ounces. That's ok though, because I generally use it in swift water where I have to use 6-8 ounces of weight to bounce the bait along the bottom.
you shouldnt need but a 1 or 2 ounce tops no roll sinker.When fishing a lake i only use a 1ounce no roll.some folks will tell you to tie on a boat anchor and hook big enough to land a blue whale,but you dont need all that garbage.
I use weights from 2-6oz depending on the current flow through the lakes here in western Ky. Right now Ky. dam is only releasing 14,014cfs so a 2 oz will hold after bouncing a couple times. But when discharge rates get up over 100,000cfs a 2oz sinker cast from the shore will be carried back to the shore, unless it happens to hangup on the way.
43 LBS CHANNELS?!?!?!?! WHERE ARE THESE AT I NEED TO FIND THEM, ESPECIALLY IN AZ!!!!! i use a regular bank sinker or pyramid when fishing in no current, they seem to work fine for me.
In lakes I'll usually go for a 1.5oz no-roll. I'll up to 3-4oz for a big live bait, or because of wind or needing to cast further.
I generally use no-rolls on the lake because they will come up of the bottom quicker when reeling in, thus reducing hang ups. For river conditions I find that heavier bank sinkers sink faster and stay in place better that the same weight in a no-roll.
Edit - Looks like BOC system time is off by 13 hours, putting my reply at the top.