Sharpening Hooks

Discussion in 'Terminal Tackle Review' started by NCCatter, Apr 19, 2006.

  1. NCCatter

    NCCatter Member

    North Carolina
    I am not sure how to properly sharpen my hooks. I have a sharpener and I think it's a Rapala, and I assume you just drag the hook down the little groove to sharpen it? Or do I need to angle the hook to sharpen? Also is it necessary to sharpen the barb or just the point? Any info would be appreciated. Thanks.
  2. tdpasser

    tdpasser New Member

    Gilbert AZ
    NCCatter, sharpening hooks are best done with a hook file and not the little stick stones. Lure Jensen makes a great hook file with a yellow handle I've been using for years. File one side about 6 swipes with the file and test the hook sometimes you only have to do just one side. If it needs to be more sharp do the front. Most of the times you shouldn't have to sharpen all 3 sides. Remember a lot of the hooks are needle sharp out of the box. When your hook bounces against the rocks it gets dull. You want to make sure you don't hone down the tip too much because you really want the longer tip on the hook. I very much beleive in having hone to the bone sharp hook. When I fished for Salmon it was a must when penitrating the hard face of a Salmon.
    The best way to know your sharp enough is test it by draging it on your thump nail or see if it want to poke your skin easy. You do not have to sharpen the barb if you think about it a dull barb would be best because we don't want it to be able to rip back out. Also, look closely at the hook tip for the best angle to hone with the file. If you hone it too thin it will break, don't hone away the integrity of the hook.

  3. Ol Whiskers

    Ol Whiskers New Member

    Fairfield Township, Ohio

    I'm stuck on a little sharpener called EZE-LAP DIAMOND HONE & STONE. It's flat, aboout 1/8-inch thick plastic, 3/4-inch wide, and just shy of 6inches long. There's a 2-ich long metal plate thatbonded to it that has diamond impregnated, and it will cut anything. I use the FINE grit, but you can get them in XF, F, M, and Coarse. They're about $5 each, from a good tool house, Woodcraft, Rockler, and I think you can find them on ebay -

    As far as hook point geometry, I use the store bought hook until it won't dig into my thumbnail on its own weight. Then, I put a pramid point on - 3 flats intersecting makes a good cutting point, and it's easier to achieve IMO than making a cone point. Just follow the original angle with 3 equal flats, one edge points toward the hook shank. Remember the thumbnail test, and do this test every time you reel up.

  4. YeeHaw

    YeeHaw New Member

    Quincy Illinois
    I've used a file, and also a little bench grinder that we have in our shop, that seems to work well too.
  5. wolfman

    wolfman Well-Known Member

    Triadelphia, WV
    Walter Flack
    Hope this helps some, good luck

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