Setting 330 Conibears

Discussion in 'Trapping & Fur Taking' started by RetiredToFish, Aug 28, 2008.

  1. RetiredToFish

    RetiredToFish New Member

    Messages:
    1,186
    State:
    Newark, Ohio
    Some months back in response to a post on setting 330's I posted a set of illustrations a method of setting 330's. Although I had never tried the method ... it looked pretty basic and much easier than using a two handed setter. Well a couple of days ago I received 2 new 330s I had purchased and followed the directions and found it wasn't nearly as simple as it looked. The directions called for using a 1/4" rope. Although, I was able to set one side of the trap the other side became very difficult. After studying the situation, I cut a piece of ½" nylon rope and it was pretty simple. The 1/4" rope wanted to slide around and down into the gap where the end of the spring was and would bind up. Plus the fact that you can't get much leverage with the 1/4" rope, but ½" was comfortable on the hand and gave much more leverage. I will post the illustration here again in case somone missed it. Another thing I found out that helps into really choke up on the rope, not nearly as much back strain and a shorter distance to pull on hold.

    I believe this method to be much better than using the normal setting tool, since in a worst case scenario I believe you can do this with one hand a foot. Good luck trapping.
     

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  2. whisker maniac

    whisker maniac New Member

    Messages:
    2,712
    State:
    arkansas
    Gary I used to trap and I found the easiest way to set 330 connibers is to get a piece of 1/4 round stock and bend a handle in it on one end and a small hook in it in the other end. The hook should be just big enough to go around the stock metal of the spring on the conniber.

    Put your foot on the jaws of the trap and run the hook through the top eye of the spring and grab the bottom eye of the spring and just pull up and lock the spring. Then repeat for the other side.

    When you have an animal in the trap step on the animal and do the same thing with the hook.

    This method is so simple you will throw your rope away and scratch your head and ask yourself now why didn't I think of that.
     

  3. beetle

    beetle New Member

    Messages:
    1,003
    State:
    Ohio
    I always use the two handed method with bars but I might just give both of these two ideas a try thanks for the info guys!
     
  4. warcraft1975

    warcraft1975 New Member

    Messages:
    1,190
    yeah the rope method works but it wears me out after the 100th one i set in a day i would much rather be useing just the setting tools. i like the ones that lock just in case i slip with them
     
  5. whisker maniac

    whisker maniac New Member

    Messages:
    2,712
    State:
    arkansas
    Tom if your using setting tongs throw them away and use the hook like I said. The hook takes much less effort than anything that is out there and you can go all day setting traps with no problem. You will be surprised at how easy it makes it to set 330's with. The tongs are cumbersome and the rope will wear you out. I made and carried the hook only because it was the simplest to use and if you accidently got your foot hung in a trap it is still the quickest and easiest way to get yourself out.
     
  6. warcraft1975

    warcraft1975 New Member

    Messages:
    1,190
    wouldnt be willing to post a pic of it would ya?that way i can take a look at it and try to make one. i use locking tongs these days. the rope is a tool that will wear me out after doing a 100 bg's maybe your tool would be something to add to my line
     
  7. RetiredToFish

    RetiredToFish New Member

    Messages:
    1,186
    State:
    Newark, Ohio

    Good Idea .... also whisker maniac if you could tell use how long is is from the handle down to the end .... I am welling to give anything a try when it comes to setting these 330s. I am not as young as I was 35 years ago and everything is harder to do and takes twice as much energy .. :eek:oooh:

    Garry-
     
  8. warcraft1975

    warcraft1975 New Member

    Messages:
    1,190
    i dont set alot 330's but i do run ten dozen 220's nowadays it will wear ya out in short order i think no matter how old ya are:smile2:
     
  9. gooboy

    gooboy New Member

    Messages:
    1,514
    State:
    Minden,La.
    Kevin, thanks for the tip. I've set them using the rope(didn't care for it, even though I carry one in my boat to get me out of a trap in case I have a whoops), 2 handle setters, and even by hand a lot, but never thought of your method. I can see where that would probably really be a quick and efficient set up. Thanks!
     
  10. whisker maniac

    whisker maniac New Member

    Messages:
    2,712
    State:
    arkansas
    Sorry Tom I tried to post a pic but am having troubles with this dang puter. I havn't been able to post pics for quite awhile. Sometimes it will let me but most of the time it won't.

    Gary you don't want it too long but want it to be long enough to reach thru the top eye of the spring to the bottom eye. Just a little longer ain't bad but too long and you don't get the leverage that is best. I don't have any 330 traps to measure it anymore and it has been years since I have trapped so I don't remember how long I made them but it seems to me that the shaft of it was no longer than 18 inches.
     
  11. RetiredToFish

    RetiredToFish New Member

    Messages:
    1,186
    State:
    Newark, Ohio
    I bought a length of 1/4" rod today and will try and make a hook like Kevin was telling us about .... When I get it done I will take some photos and let you know how it works. If a old man like me can have luck with it, all of you strong young bucks should do fine with it .... :wink: Garry-
     
  12. whisker maniac

    whisker maniac New Member

    Messages:
    2,712
    State:
    arkansas
    Gary I still was unable to post a pic as an attachment on this thread but was able to post a drawing of it in my photo album on my profile page. Hope this helps.
     
  13. RetiredToFish

    RetiredToFish New Member

    Messages:
    1,186
    State:
    Newark, Ohio
    Okay Fellers .... I took Kevins advice and made a hook to set 330's with and it also works on 220s and I am sure the others of that larger size.I first tried it like Kevin illustrated, but because of some ligament damage in my hands I couldn't hold so had to make some modifications. I have attached a couple of photos ... but here are the dimensions that I used and how I did it.

    1. 1/4 inch rod. All I could find was Hot Rolled which presented a problem later discussed. I cut the rod to 15½ inches. I bent a hook of 1 inch that would fit over the trap spring. I used a vise and vice-grips.

    2. I threaded the long end of the rod with a 1/4" X 20 thread ... down 1 7/8 inches. This is where the problem with Hot Rolled Steel came in. Hot Rolled is tempered and I couldn't cut it with small die set. So I heated red with propane ... let it cool naturally ... this took out the temper and I was able to thread it.

    3. I got 2 - 1/4" lock nut .. I threaded one on the rod. (second one later).

    4. Took an aluminum 1/4" washer .... opened the vice abot 1/2" ... centered the washer over the opening ... laid a screw driver on it and tapped it with a hammer to give it a slight curve.

    5. More ................

     
  14. RetiredToFish

    RetiredToFish New Member

    Messages:
    1,186
    State:
    Newark, Ohio
    Hit the wrong key .....

    5. Used a piece of 1 1/4" dowell rod ... I cut it to 7 1/2" ... Could be shorter, but wanted to make sure had enough length in case I needed 2 hands on it.

    6. Drilled a 1/4" hole through dowell rod. Drilled a 7/16" hole on one side down to the depth of the lock nut ... DON'T DRILL ALL THE WAY THROUGH WITH 7/16"

    7. I placed the cup washer on the 1/4" on top of the first nut with cup up. make sure when you out the first nut on it is screwed clear to the ends of the threads.

    8. Slide the dowell rod on the metal rod with the larger hole up.

    9. Screw the second nut on to the shaft with the top of the nut even with the rod ... the nut will not slide down in the hole easy ... Now tighten the first nut and washer until the nut on the top in pulled down into the hole and even with the top of the dowell.

    Thats it ......... Garry-
     

    Attached Files:

  15. RetiredToFish

    RetiredToFish New Member

    Messages:
    1,186
    State:
    Newark, Ohio
    I forgot to post this photo of the handle end nut ... Garry-
     

    Attached Files:

  16. whisker maniac

    whisker maniac New Member

    Messages:
    2,712
    State:
    arkansas
    Gary how did this hook work for you compared to the rope and other methods of setting the connibears?
     
  17. RetiredToFish

    RetiredToFish New Member

    Messages:
    1,186
    State:
    Newark, Ohio
    It worked easier than the rope and I have never tried the other gizzmos ... so I can't say about them. Once I figure out where the best place to hook it, for the best leverage I could pull it up without a lot of difficulty. I tried it also on my 220s and after bending the hook a wee bit ... it worked like a dream. The 330s I have are brand new Magnums and you know how stiff they can be ... and one good pull drew it up enough to fasten the safety hook. I think you got a winner there. I tried gripping dowell that was larger and smaller than the 1 1/4 and it was either to big or too small to facilitate a power grip. With the damage I already have in my hands I can't afford any more so had to use the wood grip. Thanks again .... Garry-
     
  18. whisker maniac

    whisker maniac New Member

    Messages:
    2,712
    State:
    arkansas
    I just put a piece of old garden hose on my handle and added tape for grip to get it to the desired diameter for a good grip for me. You went to a lot more trouble than I did with mine but yours looks better and a lot more professional:eek:oooh: But that is another plus to the hook. You can adapt it easily to your own needs and to your own grip.