SeaArk baitwell fix

Discussion in 'Boat Modification Journal' started by SkipEye, Mar 2, 2008.

  1. SkipEye

    SkipEye Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    7,525
    State:
    Winfield, MO
    Name:
    Darryl
    Folks, nothing fancy here for a fix, but I have had my SeaArk baitwell drop on me twice now when it was full of water. What a major pain in the Arse to tear down the console and jimmy it back in place!:angry: Boat is less than a year old!!!!

    It always rattled around. Not sure if SeaArk forgot to secure it or what? At the very least they cut the aluminum 'feathers' (ledge) on the port side too short which allowed the baitwell to slide side to side. All the way starboard left it barely supported as you will see in the pics and it would fall under weight.

    I finally had enough and secured it with mending straps. A simple fix but a major pain to get that tank back in the slot after it falls. Shouldn't happen with a new boat but hopefully it is fixed.

    Hope it helps someone out.

    First pic, slid to right, precariously hanging on.

    Second pic, as installed, and centered on ledges (free to move around though).

    Third pic, secured in place.

    An unbelieveable pain in the patootie!!!!!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Thanks for looking!!!!!
     
  2. mandingo

    mandingo Member

    Messages:
    802
    State:
    kansas
    skipeye,should'nt sea ark or the dealer be responsible for fixing that?it seems to me like a manufactures defect???
     

  3. SkipEye

    SkipEye Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    7,525
    State:
    Winfield, MO
    Name:
    Darryl
    Yeah, but who wants to drag the boat all the way to the dealer for that. The first time it happened I was on the river fishing. I laid on the floor of the boat (aluminum floor) frying my arse off in 100 degree heat for an hour and a half until I got it put back in place. I was on the phone with the dealer then. Sure, he said bring it in but is it worth it? After the second time I figured I needed to do something permanent to take care of it once and for all.

    Don't think it will be a problem anymore. Can't help but wonder if they forgot to secure it at the factory though because I can't imagine it is supposed to move around like it was.

    But you never know, my trailer lights were wired wrong also!!!!! Had to fix that too. :tounge_out:

    Did I mention they forgot to torque down the wheel lugnuts too? Had that repaired at dealer expense when my wheel almost came off after a month. I was out of town, on the first day of vacation to boot. The other wheel was coming loose too. Ruined one wheel and hub.

    Still love my SeaArk, don't get me wrong. Fine boats!:smile2:
     
  4. BKS72

    BKS72 New Member

    Messages:
    3,361
    State:
    East of KC
    Nice fix, but you're a better man than me. If it's a 6 year old truck, OK, I'll fix it, a new boat, NOPE. It's going back to the dealer so quick there'd be the little cartoon "speed" lines behind me:smile2:

    I realize it was not too complicated of a fix, but man that kind of stuff drives me nuts when I buy something new. If I have to fix it, what's the point of having something new?:eek:oooh:
     
  5. catfishcrazy256

    catfishcrazy256 New Member

    Messages:
    2,648
    State:
    Indiana
  6. SkipEye

    SkipEye Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    7,525
    State:
    Winfield, MO
    Name:
    Darryl
    First time I was on the first day of a fishing trip, not the best time to take it back to the dealer and I needed to use it. Second time (last week), I was 500 miles from home.

    Trailer lights, too simple to waste the gas. Except that the dealer checked them while I ran the blinkers etc. and said they were good to go (at delivery).:eek:oooh: They sort of worked, the blinker/brake wire was hooked to the marker light bulb though. Guess the mechanic was color blind, even hooked the wrong color wires to each other!:tounge_out:

    Was 60 miles from home going fishing when I trashed the hub and luckily there was another SeaArk dealer there. First he told me I would have to leave it for four days because it wasn't like I bought it from him!:angry: (My dealer was paying for it, but the guy had an attitude because I bought from a competitor). I had $200.00 worth of stuff in my hand to buy from his shop while he was giving me crap too! We had a few words! Was gonna leave me stranded on my first day of vacation for what amounted to a tire change.:angry: He finally fixed it and I bought my accessories from him. I still would never buy a boat from the guy after that.

    You know Branden, you got me thinking, maybe I'll send that pic to seaark and see if there is supposed to be that much clearance on the port side (doubt it). Maybe they'll fix it right. I'm not expecting my straps to hold the water weight, just keep it from sliding to starboard where it can fall.
     
  7. Grumper

    Grumper New Member

    Messages:
    2,277
    State:
    Crystal City MO
    They must have forgotten something with your baitwell. Mine seems solid as a rock and dosent move at all. Mine is a little different though, being a center console. I think mine is 12 gallons.
     
  8. SkipEye

    SkipEye Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    7,525
    State:
    Winfield, MO
    Name:
    Darryl
    Yeah, your console is different. I kinda wonder now if someone didn't forget something because it has always slid around which I thought was kinda cheesy for such an expensive boat.
     
  9. seaark ryan

    seaark ryan New Member

    Messages:
    199
    State:
    Kansas
    I bought a 2072 vpld classic (2006) and my bait well wouldn't even fill with water. Mine is a side console type. I tride to fix it my self but would have to pull the console out as the inlet hose is twitsed or pinched somewhere! I now just use it for storage for small things knives,scales (catch all). Same thing didn't want waist the money on gas. My dealer is 2 hours away. Small problem but still love this boat!
     
  10. SkipEye

    SkipEye Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    7,525
    State:
    Winfield, MO
    Name:
    Darryl
    Shouldn't have to pull the console as the fill hose is accessible under the knee-knocker shelf, then routes down the starboard side to the bilge area. There is an access panel on the rear compartment floor to get to the livewell and bilge pumps. Be kind of hard to kink that stiff hose.

    You did check the twist-on, twist-off valve on the spray-head right? (sorry, that is obvious but not sure of your familiarity with this boat) OFF=CW, ON=CCW

    I have the side console also.
     
  11. willcat

    willcat New Member

    Messages:
    2,463
    State:
    texas
    sound like that boat was put together on a friday @ 5 o'clock, glad to hear u fixed it though, I'm like u I will fix it myself when it is something small, if u take it to them they will sit on it since it's warranty!!
     
  12. SkipEye

    SkipEye Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    7,525
    State:
    Winfield, MO
    Name:
    Darryl
    Even though I had a few aggravations I still want to say that SeaArk makes a top-notch boat. Plus, my dealer never hesitated to offer to fix my boat, just wasn't worth dragging it back there, except for the hub issue when I was stranded.
     
  13. seaark ryan

    seaark ryan New Member

    Messages:
    199
    State:
    Kansas
    My model is a vpld Classic and has the side pieces that cover the hose and the only way to access the hose is to pull the side cover that covers the side ribs. I have had the knee panel off, not kinked there and had the hose off the twist valve. I have even tried to pull the hose out of the boat and it won't budge! I tried to blow compressed air through with no luck. I have pretty much given up. unless anybody comes up with any new ideas. Thanks for the help.
     
  14. seaark ryan

    seaark ryan New Member

    Messages:
    199
    State:
    Kansas
    P.S. I have also had the rear floor out to get to the hose and no problems there. It has to be in the side wall????? thanks again for the help. Any ideas are helpful.
     
  15. SkipEye

    SkipEye Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    7,525
    State:
    Winfield, MO
    Name:
    Darryl

    Sorry to hear that, looks like some disassembly is in order. If it is still under warranty I am quite sure SeaArk will fix it for you.

    Good luck!
     
  16. roadkill636

    roadkill636 New Member

    Messages:
    551
    State:
    warrenton misso
    I wonder if you can remove the liner and fill the void area with that GREAT STUFF minamul expanding foam ,set it in where ya want it WALAAA!!
     
  17. Katmandeux

    Katmandeux New Member

    Messages:
    1,618
    State:
    Checotah, Oklahoma
    One of you guys ought to link this thread to SA customer service.

    This kind of stuff is outrageous on a new boat.
     
  18. bigcatman0001

    bigcatman0001 New Member

    Messages:
    93
    State:
    south carolina
    I too have had problems with my 20ft seark v-cat. It is brand new and I have already had it in the shop 6 times. The gator hide is peeling up, fuel gauge never worked, grabrail vibrated loose, cigarate plug never worked, water pump broke, windshield vibrated loose, and the center console latch is stripped out. I love the boat , but I guess sea ark needs to be a little more careful before they ship the boat off for sale
     
  19. roadkill636

    roadkill636 New Member

    Messages:
    551
    State:
    warrenton misso
    I'v soon found that seaark loves to use self tapping screws on EVERYTHING, go spend $20 on a bunch of 1" ss screws and nuts and
    it sure worked for me
    as far as the fuel guage,make a short ground from the sending unit to the alum hull, just an idea
     
  20. bigcatman0001

    bigcatman0001 New Member

    Messages:
    93
    State:
    south carolina
    I plan makin them fix it since it is a new boat, I usually dont mind workin on stuff, but when I get a new boat it should work perfect if you ask me.:confused2: