Rookie12's Boat Project

Discussion in 'Boat Modification Journal' started by Rookie12, Mar 26, 2007.

  1. Rookie12

    Rookie12 New Member

    Messages:
    1,324
    State:
    Kannapolis, NC
    Alright, I decided to recover the floor of my boat because the carpet that was in there was cheap carpet if you ask me and it wsa getting ton up because some of the lids fit too tight and they tore the carpet at the edges and it was progressively getting worse. Not to mention cat slime and shad slime on your deck doesn't really do it justice either. I got the stuff from Eco Safety Products ordered and it should be here around the middle of the week. Almost got all the decks up. Going to finish that tonight. Then I'll take all the doors off for the compartments and remove the hinges which are riveted to the doors but screwed from underneath to the floor. I'm going to strip all the carpet off and coat everything with the Eco stuff. I think I may sand on a few of the doors so they don't fit as tight anymore. Will post pics soon, including teardown and finished product.
     
  2. Mark J

    Mark J New Member

    Messages:
    9,407
    State:
    Four Oaks, NC
    Dont forget a quality self etching primer.
    I talked with their staff at ECO at length about the product and the various configurations it can be ordered in.

    I've been assured it will work below the waterline on my pontoons as a protective coating and will take some serious shots to it IF I prep the metal right. They recomend their self etching primer or other quality self etching primers.
    They also suggested to rough the metal with 40 grit before priming.
    I handled that part with a side grinder with a 40 grit flap disc.
     

  3. Rookie12

    Rookie12 New Member

    Messages:
    1,324
    State:
    Kannapolis, NC
    I got the primer from them and I got what they said would work on wood and metal both. I plan on doing a little filling in with some wood filler on a few nicked places on the front deck and then sanding everything dwon and making sure it is good and clean and dry before I prime it. I'll prime, then I'll put the stuff on. They said I could brush the stuff on, but I'm kind of leary about that. I would prefer to do it that way because of some corners and stuff I have to get in. Their staff said it shoud work fine with a brush. What are your thoughts MarkJ and how are you going to put yours on. My decks are marine plywood, but the doors and lids on the decks are aluminum. That's why I got the primer that would work on both. see ya
     
  4. Rookie12

    Rookie12 New Member

    Messages:
    1,324
    State:
    Kannapolis, NC
    On the underside of the wood that is used for my decks, would it be a good idea to paint them with something to act as a kind of moisture barrier. This wood was bare and I don't like that considering there is water that will be in the hull and nothing between it and the wood. Thanks. also what kind of paint. I'm guessing that regular old spray paint and stuff wouldn't work or serve the purpose well. The main purpose would be to just be a moisture barrier so I don't think it would need to be anything too expensive.
     
  5. Mark J

    Mark J New Member

    Messages:
    9,407
    State:
    Four Oaks, NC
    If I recall correctly that stuff is self leveling. I'd have to go back and read again to make sure.
    I know you can build the stuff to around a 3/16ths of an inch thick with numerous coats.
    For my toons I'm ordering the non aggregate underwater formula. I'll trim it with a brush and roll it with a foam roller.

    For the deck I think they recomend a foam roller because the foam will pick up the aggregate and lay it down on the surface. I dont think a nap roller would disperse the aggregate.

    If its self leveling you shouldnt see the first brush mark when it dries.
    I've been painting all my trailer parts and the trailer with POR15 using a brush. There isnt the first brush mark in it as its self leveling.
    Might find a run or two though:big_smile:

    The ECO site has quite a bit of information as far as putting the stuff down. I'd hunt it down and read over it to be sure.
     
  6. Mark J

    Mark J New Member

    Messages:
    9,407
    State:
    Four Oaks, NC
    The only effective moisture barrier I know is epoxy.
    Its 99. something % waterproof.

    In order to make a wood water or vapor proof you have to invade the molecular fibers with an epoxy.
    You can invade with many products but you arent accomplishing a whole lot if the product itself isnt water or vapor proof to a high degree.

    What winds up happening is you put a barrier on that that water or vapor goes through relatively easily but it cant come back out as easy. Then you got wet rot and alot of additional weight.

    On the same hand if you used a product that was 100% waterproof and vapor proof you can create a dry rot condition. Yep boats sitting in water even permanently like the big yachts suffer from dry rot at times.

    I know it sounds like a broken record but the only product that does the job better then any other is epoxy.
    If applied right its there forever doing its job UNLESS you are trying to waterproof or vapor proof pine or fir plywood. In that case it doesnt matter what you put on it it will check right through whatever product you can buy to coat it with. When it checks it appears as cracking allowing water and vapor to invade.
    The ONLY way to prevent checking in these woods is to glass it using epoxy and a glass cloth.

    It wouldnt take a monster glass to accomplish this. Something like just a 4 oz. cloth or even a 2 oz would do the trick without adding enough weight to sneeze at. A simple job. I could do the bottom of every deck and floor in an hour if I had someone mixing.

    I buy all that stuff online. Its by far the cheapest way. Just stay off of Ebay buying glass. Alot of the glass sold on Ebay has been wet before in a flood or a leak of some sort introducing just enough contaminate to ruin what was to be a simple laminating job.

    Rough estimate for material and I'm probally high on the glass not knowing how many yards but a safe bet would be 75 bucks. Another 75-80 for a gallon of epoxy.

    My two cents though. I wouldnt go to the trouble or expense of glassing unless I glassed both sides. It makes a tough as nails surface too. Scuba tank tough. Scuba tanks are well known for wrecking boat floors.
     
  7. clintonhawg1

    clintonhawg1 New Member

    Messages:
    177
    State:
    indiana
    Look forward to the pics . It sounds like you got your work cut out for you but it is the kind of work that is enjoyable.
     
  8. Rookie12

    Rookie12 New Member

    Messages:
    1,324
    State:
    Kannapolis, NC
    Well, I got everything stripped down, took apart and prepped to prime and finish. Now I just need my stuff!!!! I was hoping it would be here by now, but it's not. I ordered it last Sun. night and had 3 day shipping, I don't get it. I'll call them on Mon. Anyway, getting all the carpet glue off the aluminum pieces was a pain in the butt. I tried acetone, steel wool and paint stripper. It worked but was a pain. Finally tried gasoline. That stuff works good!!! I just went back over it with some steel wool and acetone and then dried with a rag. I wanted to hit it with acetone one more time because gasoline is oil based and I didn't want any of that on there when I prime it. My camera is giving me a fit, so no pics. hopefully soon though. I'll at least post the final result. I got to hit a marine store and get some more decking screws and bolts for my seat pedestal bases. some were corroded up and I had to drill 'em out. That was fun too... not!!!!!! Hopefully I'll have it together for next weekend, if not then then the next. Headed to the congaree and got to have the boat ready. see ya
     
  9. Mark J

    Mark J New Member

    Messages:
    9,407
    State:
    Four Oaks, NC
    What holds up shipping.
    Often times onlines stores are not the shipper or they may be the shipper of part of the order.
    Your stuff may be drop shipped from the factory or the online store's supplier.

    I run into this with boat building supplies. You order from one person. That one person carries the glass and epoxy. The plywood is shipped direct from their supplier to keep costs low.
    He isnt having to warehouse plywood , pick and pack orders, or pay shipping on it. All he has to deal with is UPS, Fed Ex, and the postal service.
    No need to buy a forklift or have a loading dock capable of handling big trucks.
     
  10. Rookie12

    Rookie12 New Member

    Messages:
    1,324
    State:
    Kannapolis, NC
    That's kind of what I figured. I also think they have to mix that stuff as thy get it ordered because of all the options, aggregate grades, and colors, so that may have held them up a few days. Thanks, I'm ready for it, so I can get that stuff on there and get this thing back together.
     
  11. Mark J

    Mark J New Member

    Messages:
    9,407
    State:
    Four Oaks, NC
    Let us know how long it took from the time you placed the order to the time you received it. I have to order from them too and would like to know the lead time.
     
  12. Rookie12

    Rookie12 New Member

    Messages:
    1,324
    State:
    Kannapolis, NC
    Alright, I spoke with exo safety products today and it looks like I will get my shipment tomorrow. It took six days before the factory got the stuff mixed and shipped and it shiped on Mon. looks like I got a lot of hard work to do before next weekend. Their info. says not to use it in less than 40 degree weather. This is a sorry time for a cold front to move in! I wsa kind of dissapointed in the long lead time. Website says ships in 3-5 days. 6 days didn't sit too well with me. see ya
     
  13. Rookie12

    Rookie12 New Member

    Messages:
    1,324
    State:
    Kannapolis, NC
    Well, I was supposed to get my stuff today, but it didn't come. I called them and found out that my shipment was shipped ground instead of the 3 day shipping that I chose. I told them I was really displeased with this. they called back and got me another batch ready to go and are going to next day air it to me so I will get it tomorrow. They also shipped for free, so that worked out OK I guess. I saved a little money on shipping. It took them six days to get it out of the factory and then it looks like it will take another week to get it to me. This will be almost two weeks from time of order to time of delivery.
     
  14. Mark J

    Mark J New Member

    Messages:
    9,407
    State:
    Four Oaks, NC
    The bright side. These days you cant complain too much about a company that is willing to make it right. Customer no service is the norm these days.
    They just ate a chunk in shipping in an effort to make a wrong right.
     
  15. Rookie12

    Rookie12 New Member

    Messages:
    1,324
    State:
    Kannapolis, NC
    That's what I thought when they finally got everything striaght. Everybody screws up, but the ones that are trying to make it right are getting few and far between. got everything in today!
     
  16. Rookie12

    Rookie12 New Member

    Messages:
    1,324
    State:
    Kannapolis, NC
    Finally got everything finished up this evening. I'm pretty pleased with it too! I would recommend Eco Safety Products to anyone looking to to redo their boat floor! Don't have any pics of the before or during, but I will try to get some of the after effect! My digital camera died, but I'll get a disposable and get some pics and scan 'em in. I need to get some pics of all those hawgs I'm going to catch this weekend at the Congaree anyway!
     
  17. Mark J

    Mark J New Member

    Messages:
    9,407
    State:
    Four Oaks, NC
    Which aggregate option did you go with?
     
  18. Rookie12

    Rookie12 New Member

    Messages:
    1,324
    State:
    Kannapolis, NC
    I chose standard, but I would probably go with low aggregate if I had it to do over again. It looks good, but is a little grittier looking than I wanted, no complaints though! If you get it with aggregate, be sure to mix it good, because when you get it all the aggregate will be balled up on the bottom, and you got to mix it in first. It is al ittle tricky laying down, but I found what works good. Roll the first layer one direction and then roll the second layer the opposite direction just to put the stuff down on there. Then hit it at different diagonal angles until it's smoothed in right. I had to do two coats and then go backa nd touch up a few places. did all the rolling from primer to finished product in an afternoon.. this stuff dries super quick!
     
  19. Okccatman

    Okccatman New Member

    Messages:
    323
    State:
    Norman,Ok
    Mark,

    You said that the only true water barrier you were aware of is epoxy. Lacquer also provides a true water/vapor barrier. We use it for all burn outs we rehab. It will keep smoke damage from leeching. I don't know if this has any marine applications or not. I just wanted to make you aware of another true water barrier.

    Dave