Rollo's Homemade Slip-Floats For Livebait Flathead Fishing!!!

Discussion in 'Catfishing Library' started by catfishrollo, Sep 9, 2008.

  1. catfishrollo

    catfishrollo New Member

    Messages:
    6,894
    State:
    Ohio
    Here is another technique I use, and how I make it my own way for flathead catfish. This is very simple, I buy swimming pool noodles for a buck or two at the local Dollar General Store, or Wal-Mart. They usually come in 4-5ft. lengths. Thats enough to make 15-20 bobbers for cattin in my opinion. I cut them in 2-5 inch pieces. Take lids from 5 gal. buckets, sketch the diameter of the noodle on them. I then use a jig-saw to cut the caps for both ends. The noodles I buy already have a 5/8" hole running through the middle of the pool noodle, which makes it easy to thread the line through. Back to the caps. The top cap I drill a 5/64" hole. This is small enough to keep the stop knots and bead from passing by. The bottom cap gets the same size hole drilled in the center of the cap as the hole in the noodle, so the noodle hole matches up good. I then use Amazing Goop glue to secure the plastic caps to the foam float! I always glue each cap well, place them lined up on the float, so the holes are centered, a put a small weight on the top of the float till they dry. I have never had one come apart yet! I will post some more pictures and details to help explain my makings here to help... First pic. is one of the pool noodle. Second one is a picture of the lid of a 5 gal bucket with the glue I use. The third picture is one of the bottom of the noodle with the hole pre-made in the noodle.. Once again this makes easier threading for monofilament, braid, etc. than one would think

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    Ok, the next pictures are those of when they are glued together, dried completed.

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    For those of you that might be confused slip-float fishing. These are designed to allow you control the depth you are wanting to fish more effectively. It consists of a stopper knot,( first picture) that is set at the desired depth, a bead to help stop the knot from passing through the float, a float, and usually a weigh below to help sink the bait, and hook.. Not always a weight though. Many flathead guys allow the bait to swim freely with little or no weight. Some even will run a barrel swivel, and then a line ranging 10-20 inches under the float with a weight above the swivel.. I usually fish an egg sinker right down to the hook, with a bead to help protect the knot and from slamming down on the hook.. Below pictures explain better I hope. Second picture shows the knot, and bead, then float as explained. The last picture is the whole rig I use often for flathead fishing.. Make sure you tighten the stop knot down when you set it at the desired point, and cut the tag ends off close to the knot so it doesn't snag in the eyelets when you cast. That will quickly ruin the knot, making it loose, and allowing it to slide on the mainline. If you want, place two stop knots together when tieing this up, they will work together to help prevent this.


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    There are different techniques for every situation when it comes to flathead fishing. And sometimes it calls for bottom fishing, sometimes other methods like this. I use this rig when I lake fish always, and on the river at times to suspend livebaits over submerged logjams and areas where throwing a bottom rig would result in an immediate break. Flats do suspend often, and a float rig of this type can be deadly when fished accordingly. I have tried this in many different situations, and would be lying to say its always a sucess. But, have caught many large flatheads by fishing the float. Add this to your arsenal, drift them baits into prime areas, and see what you all think.

    I use them to float baits either along the creek channel on the lake, or to float along the banks past the structure areas. On the river, I like to use them in heavy sunken structure spots, to suspend my livebaits over them.. I believe alot of these flatheads often hold on the above side of the structure, or in an area where they can look above to see the fish from an ambush point. If you can figure out how high the structure is coming off bottom then let these lively baits pass a few feet over that, thats how I have been productive catching them on the river. Obviously any eddy areas would be a good spot to let them drift around also. ... rollo
     
  2. BIG_D

    BIG_D New Member

    Messages:
    8,107
    State:
    Batchtown IL.
    I used your pattern Rollo, but simplified it a bit. Turns out a spray can lid fits a pool noodle perfect. Before you cut the outer edge of the lid off, push it down on the noodle with a twisting motion to make the center of the cap cut its way into the noodle. I left the center of the lid and didn't cut it off. It gives the glue more to grab on to. Its not coming back off after gluing. Here's a few pictures. Thanks for the idea ROLLO.

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    These are pictures of my finished bobbers. Just need to drill the holes. With these caps, hitting the center is easy as there is a little dimple in the cap dead center.

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  3. outdoorX

    outdoorX New Member

    Messages:
    104
    State:
    Ohio
    Another thing you can do is get the noodles that dont have the hole in the middle and a bunch of coffe straws. run the straw through the glue then shove it through the noodle and let sit. a little lighter then your project but with alot less cutting.
     
  4. varmint_sniper

    varmint_sniper New Member

    Messages:
    700
    State:
    OHIO
    This works also........The bottom of a skoal can also works if ya got some saved problem is 1 can only dose 1/2 a slip float but a redseal can will do both top and bottom if ya use the lid and its pretty much the right size just trim the lip off of the lid and trim the wall off the bottom part of the chew can and it fits pretty well lol now iam gonna start saveing my empty chew cans just thought id let yall know i found another way to modifiy it in case ya dont got no bucket lids like me lol