Rod holder bases

It depends on what kind of rod holders you are going to use (assuming Monster style) and exactly where/how you mount the bases but in general, more bolts are better.

...W

Does boat have track ?

Photos will help.

I looked it up. It has a T rail.
Mine came with 2 rod holders. I didn't like them, they stuck out to the side and no adjustment.
I called the manufacture co of mine. I could buy the mating part for the T rail in 1 foot sections or as long a piece I wanted. I think it was $25 per foot plus shipping. I could cut to the length I wanted, cut a slot and drill a hole for the T head bolt.
I was a machinist for a railroad. I found an EMD armrest in the scrap. A little more work, cutting to size and learning to weld aluminum with an AC welder.
Look at the rod holders from Derby cat and Riverman on this link. I built the same with other aluminum scrap.
(8) My take on a rod rack | Catfish Angler Forum at USCA (catfish1.com)

Pictures will always help us understand exactly what you have. Also, links to the holder bases would beee nice if available. I made my rod holder bases and used two t- bolts to attach them to the track on my Lowe 2070. I have used several rod holders but prefer the Monster Rod Holders.

No rail on my boat. Just a nice wide gunwale. Full roll over, not just a folded lip. So 1-1/2”-2” screws will go all the way through both sides.

And yes, Monster style or maybe Smackdown.

If that roll over is hollow you’ll crush it when you tighten down the mount so you’ll need to put sleeves on the bolts so you can tighten them.
May seems like overkill but many people underestimate how much stress a catfish can put on a rod holder. Apologies if you’re already aware of that.

…W

I had thought of that. Not sleeving, but using nylock nuts and not over tightening. Is it common to trust top layer alone? Rivnut?

I use rivet nuts for everything trolling motor rod post with 2 holders

If you have a wire welder you can build your own mounts pretty easy. Flat stock and a nut welded on.

Treesmith said:

I had thought of that. Not sleeving, but using nylock nuts and not over tightening. Is it common to trust top layer alone? Rivnut?

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Nyloc nuts are a must either way. If it were me I’d want the top and bottom skins of the rail tied together with bolts and sleeves.
The rivnuts, if put in right are probably stronger than the aluminum you’re putting them in to. You could try them first and if they don’t make it you can then go to the bolt through option.
…W

So a rivnut through the top layer alone would be stronger than a bolt running through top and bottom? Also, what rivnut tool do y’all prefer? They offer the angled type, which I’m considering, and the long, straight type. Seems the angled would offer more access in confined areas.

Are you thinking of using one of these plates?
Amazon.com: attwood 5072-7 Sure-Grip Rod Holder Mounting Base — Flat Rail Base, Fits Square Rail, Pre-Drilled, Extruded Aluminum : Sports & Outdoors
Amazon.com: attwood 5071-3 Sure-Grip Rod Holder Mounting Base — Flush Base, Fits 2-in. Flat Surfaces, Pre-Drilled, Extruded Aluminum : Sports & Outdoors

canebreaker said:

Are you thinking of using one of these plates?
Amazon.com: attwood 5072-7 Sure-Grip Rod Holder Mounting Base — Flat Rail Base, Fits Square Rail, Pre-Drilled, Extruded Aluminum : Sports & Outdoors
Amazon.com: attwood 5071-3 Sure-Grip Rod Holder Mounting Base — Flush Base, Fits 2-in. Flat Surfaces, Pre-Drilled, Extruded Aluminum : Sports & Outdoors

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Yes sir, those are the two I was considering. Didn’t know if there were a particular advantage to the triangular ones. I get it that an extra screw can’t hurt.

Treesmith said:

So a rivnut through the top layer alone would be stronger than a bolt running through top and bottom? Also, what rivnut tool do y’all prefer? They offer the angled type, which I’m considering, and the long, straight type. Seems the angled would offer more access in confined areas.

Click to expand...

It takes a lot of pressure to seat the rivet nuts I use straight one

Rivnuts might hold better in aluminum. I used a bolt, nut and fender washer to install them on my kayak for handles. First time picking up the kayak by the handle one pulled out. I went to Jack nuts. The first set were long and didn't have a problem installing them. The next set were short and didn't seat well. Replaced them with longer ones.

If you have space for the triangular ones I'd use them.
Mark and drill the center hole into the gunwale. This way you can seat the rod holder a bit deeper, relieve some of the pressure on the base.