removing old calking from a boat

Discussion in 'Boat Repair Help' started by bomberboat, Nov 23, 2008.

  1. bomberboat

    bomberboat New Member

    Messages:
    25
    State:
    bull shoals, Arkansas
    i just made a deal on a old 14 ft richline alum. boat. some past owner caulked with latex or silicone caulking it's smeared all over every thing. seams, rivets you name it. looks god awful it can't leak that bad if it did. so whats the easy way to remove it? i know it don't take long for gas to mess it all up how about carb cleaner ? the inside looks like it's been painted a time or two flaking off. was going to use a angle grinder with a wire brush on it for the paint inside. any ideas about all the sealer removal ? some one have a clue what it would cost to have a small trailer sand blasted???
     
  2. catfishcrazy256

    catfishcrazy256 New Member

    Messages:
    2,648
    State:
    Indiana
    Lots of work,Dont know of any EASY way...:roll_eyes:
     

  3. peewee williams

    peewee williams New Member

    Messages:
    3,111
    State:
    Pembroke,Georgia
    Repeated freezing and thawing year after year with rain or snow water in the bottom of a riveted Aluminum boat will gradually force everything apart just enough to seep everywhere.This does not happen to boats stored inside.Walking in one pulled up on the bank or any unsupported such doings also do such.The boat now gives at each place due to all the small clearances.A flexible coating is what works.Just heat and cold expansion over the years will work these places.Time and conditions!

    Grumman used a strip seam (neoprene?) in the old 17 'White water Canoe I recently gave my son and in the old 8 foot Grumman Dinghy I have.This plus upside down storage eliminates this as water can not get in and the flexible neoprene takes up any minor clearances 50+ years old and and neither leaks!

    If I could not live with the looks,I would sell it.If you can live with it and it is a good working boat,use it as such.It sounds as if you have a working fishing boat.If you are in to trolling for women,I suggest that you have the wrong boat.

    I have lived with and used Aluminum boats for over 50 years now.Some things that folks do to them are hard to undo.Some cannot be undone.You use a common steel or a brass brush to remove the paint,it will leave iron residue to rust or brass to cause electrolysis to corrode in the Aluminum.You will have to use a Stainless Steel one.Check this out with a good welder.He can give you a local source for the correct brush to use.

    If it is caulked with the right stuff,gas will not harm it.

    Some folk are getting Aluminum boats coated with the truck bed stuff.Good paint and coatings are expensive.They have to go on clean surfaces.

    The yellow pages should list sandblasters in your area.Remember.If it is too rusty or corroded,you may have holes or very weak metal left.Sandblasting often reveals that the trailer is not repairable.This is very common with old trailers in my area that are used around saltwater.Check your U bolts and all fasteners.You will get a much better job if you completely disassemble the trailer.This is the only way possible to get everywhere and all of the rust.This can be a JOB!Your hubs and or spindles will have to be protected!
     
  4. oh no

    oh no New Member

    Messages:
    11,108
    State:
    Indiana
    I used to sandblast. An average boat trailer would cost about 2 hundred. I know that seems high, but so are supplies and labor. Most trailers as PeeWee said are junk and past repairable.

    Most store bought boat trailers are built out of the lightest gauge steel they can get by with. You add years of rusting and that sand will cut it apart. You can check how bad yours is with an ice pick or small nail. If you poke holes threw it anywhere --- junk it and get another.

    If the rust is not scalled, the trailer has some paint and rust in spots,,,, just get some toilet bowl cleaner=== The Works + rubber gloves and a brush. That stuff will flat take care of rust.

    Then rinse it off good with water, let it dry good and paint. Easy as Pie.
     
  5. oh no

    oh no New Member

    Messages:
    11,108
    State:
    Indiana
    On big jobs, buildings and such, get yourself a cheap all plastic garden sprayer. Fill it with the Works or Muriatic acid,[ Muriatic Acid is stronger than the Works] stand with the wind at your back and spray that steel. It will smoke and the fumes will get you. So PLEASE Stay with the wind at your back.

    Then rinse with water, let dry and paint.

    If you know what pickled steel looks like, that's what you got. Steel that is clean with light traces of white streaking. Just paint over it. The paint will really stick.

    Muriatic acid is about 4-5 dollars a gallon at Lowe's.

    Uncle Jim's Ways to Save Money.

    Oh No
     
  6. Mark J

    Mark J New Member

    Messages:
    9,407
    State:
    Four Oaks, NC
    Burn it off.
    It's about the only way to get 5200 off and then it doesn't get it off, it just loosens it.
     
  7. Bill in SC

    Bill in SC New Member

    Messages:
    4,451
    State:
    South Caro
    As for the sealer removal, try a hot air gun. These can be purchased at any home building store, and work well to remove paint, caulking, and such.
    Bill in SC