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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well got this boat for a $150 at a auction, use to belong to CA fish and game,,,its a "89" Western 12x46 jon,,got back at the 1st of the year and just getting around yo getting it ready for the water,, put her on the trailer yesterday filled it up with 6" of water to check for leaks and sure enough had some cracking of the alum. around the rivets for the rear seat stands :mad1: could weld them but think I'm going to paint the bottom 6"with some2 part epoxy resin from fasco unlimited http://www.fascoepoxies.com/products.html ,,, going to use STEELFLEX CLEAR,
NUETRAL, WHITE #9X can have it tented to different colors,,, think I;m going with some kinda gray,, stuff will seal up a leaks
,,, goes on with brush and rollers,,, guess its around $80 for a gal kit ,, going to call and order today,,

Have to replace the old splintered plywood seats,,, got 3/8 some exterior plywood with one good sanded side,,, put 3 coats of kilz on it for primer and will be paint with some kinda house paint down the road,,, pulled the old foam out and some didn't look to good in places and MAY replace with new ,,,, thinking of also having the inside sprayed with Line-x not sure about the cost,,, may just use some kinda of do-it yourself roll on stuff

Got a aluminum trailer that I'm in the middle of building,, Mat'l used 1-1/2x3x .120 tube, with a torsion axle from Northern Tool ,,, got the fenders and steps foamed up and ready to install and then the lights and it done
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
some more of the trailer with the boat on ,,, trailer has hitch will extend 3',,, used Trex wood from Lows for the bunks, works for slick bunks and wont rot,, trailer should handle a boat up to 14' with some minor mods
 

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Nice boat and trailer combo. If ya ain't doin salt water, why not just go with galvanized or regular iron? I reckon it weighs more but easier/cheaper to weld up. I used to be up on coatings for metal, not too sharp on it now tho.

I seen some that looked good when they were new, but after a few years lost their flexibility and cracked and delaminated. Sometimes I think a heavy coat of elastomeric might do just as well as epoxy. Not as tough tho, but has more flex.

Looks like ya got a good deal on that, oughta fish good.
 

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also G-FLEX 650 is pretty amazing also. worked on my boat and she looked like it was leaking through swiss cheese
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Whatcha doin with that Gregor in the background???
Gregor is getting rebuilt and modified into more of a catfishing boat, was set up before as a bass boat, replaced all the decking and reduced the size of them , built a new console for it new gauges and all rewired, added a larger and better live well, need to get back on it, been sitting over a year,,, ya know did one other thing on it now looking at the gregor that I may do to the jon and is clean the hull up with some Shark Hide and give a coat of their sealer
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Nice boat and trailer combo. If ya ain't doin salt water, why not just go with galvanized or regular iron? I reckon it weighs more but easier/cheaper to weld up. I used to be up on coatings for metal, not too sharp on it now tho.

I seen some that looked good when they were new, but after a few years lost their flexibility and cracked and delaminated. Sometimes I think a heavy coat of elastomeric might do just as well as epoxy. Not as tough tho, but has more flex.

Looks like ya got a good deal on that, oughta fish good.
Thanks Tim, all about saving weight and saving fuel, the Jetta has a tow rating of 900#,, trailer, boat, 6hp motor, trolling motor, battery, and gear should come out to less then 600#,, plans are to be able take some long fishing trips and be able to afford the fuel and have a boat with me also. some day going to find a 14 or 15 foot 48"+ wide jon to put on it along with a 10hp, so its going to weigh in a tic more and need to stay away from the max

The welding part is the easy part, took about 4hr to fit and weld out the basic frame with the bunks,, got a total of about 8to 10 hrs into it now, think got about $350 in to aluminum,,for the steel by the time ya the steel and pay for some good paint I mite have saved $100, to have it Galvanized would probably would come out costing more,, price of steel fifty cents a pound price of Galv is dollar+ pound,, oh ya the alum is no upkeep required
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
also G-FLEX 650 is pretty amazing also. worked on my boat and she looked like it was leaking through swiss cheese
think the G-Flex is more of a seam sealer, the flexsteel is more of a thick painted on coating and will coat the full bottom of the boat,, toughens up the bottom from impacts also Bobby helped out Andy using it on Andy's toon,, think I'm going to be talking to them about the stuff be I put it down
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
think the G-Flex is more of a seam sealer, the flexsteel is more of a thick painted on coating and will coat the full bottom of the boat,, toughens up the bottom from impacts also Bobby helped out Andy using it on Andy's toon,, think I'm going to be talking to them about the stuff be I put it down
Forgot to add that I am thinking of using the G-Flex on the inside seams before I line it:wink1::wink1: and hope that no more leaks ever show up again
 

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Forgot to add that I am thinking of using the G-Flex on the inside seams before I line it:wink1::wink1: and hope that no more leaks ever show up again
well first off sir I must say you have a nice collection and good looking projects going on! and the g flex is gold. if I had the money to spend on some of that fasco stuff I would but that g flex worked on the inside and out on my boat. if you haven't used it or have any questions on it let me know and ill help with information how I can. just like sweat soldering!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
OK about time fro a up date,,

Got the trailer done,, took some time to get the fenders done out of the sheet metal dept, have had a lot work to get done that pays the bills so I'm last in line and the 1st to be forgot about:bruised:

made the finders and running boards from some formed up 1/8''(.120) aluminum sheet stock , made up some bent 2-1/2'' C channels for the side frames and then some 8'' wide jeep style finders , on top of both added some 1/8'' diamond plate,, finders are supported on each end by 2''x 2''x.120 tube

dang just took me 45 min to load 5 pics,, keeps coming up with a script errors ,, more to come later
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
this is a test pic changed browser, and it worked

pic is of the axle and hub I used,,, the torsion axle works great almost zero bounce on the little lite trailer ,, hub should be a good deal with the grease/zerck fitting on the back side of the inner bearing
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Now for the light and its done

used 3/4''and 2'' round led clearance lights with oval stop/ running led lights

used a 2-1/4'' hole saw for the 2'' and a 25/32'' drill for the 3/4'' lights ,,, ran 16ga wire threw the inside the tube,,, front amber light was put where the cross tube was so I could use it for a chase to run the wire threw by drilling out the inside of the tube,,, all wires were soldered then sealed with liquid tape then black electrical tape
 

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