Rat's Complete Home Rod Storage System

Discussion in 'Catfishing Library' started by Whistler, Sep 7, 2005.

  1. Whistler

    Whistler Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,084
    State:
    TN
    Originally posted by William Sipes(Riverrat) on March 10, 2004

    I needed a new storage system for my rods, so I decided to try and come up with something that would let me store a number of rods, and also not take up a lot of room. I also wanted something that was a little "unique." Here's what I came up with.
    It'll hold 27 rods, and is 46 inches wide,48 inches tall and 17 inches deep.
    Each unit opens up to allow easy access to the rods stored behind. Caster wheels on the bottoms, piano hinges to open and close on, and hook and eye system to keep them closed. If you want in the 2nd unit, open the first hook and eye. If you want in the 3rd unit, unhook the second hook and eye and the first two open as a unit. The 3rd unit is attached to the wall with L brackets and is stationary. Screen door handles on the sides to pull on. It was pretty easy to make, and actually works like I hoped it would.
    Rat
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  2. Whistler

    Whistler Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,084
    State:
    TN
    Continued from previous post by Riverrat

    Here's what you need to make a 3 section rod rack.
    (6) 8' 2x6
    (1) 8' 2x4
    (4) caster wheels
    (2) piano hinges
    (2) hook and eye latches
    (4) L brackets

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    Cut the 2x6's into 4' pieces, you'll end up with 12 of them. 3 bottoms, 3 tops and 6 sides.

    Cut the 2x4 into 2 pieces, each 4'long.

    The layout's for the bottom holes depend on the butt stlye of your rods and the sizes of your reels. The best way to do this is to make all the holes the same diameter, based on the size of your largest rod butt. Cut circles out of cardboard, and place them on the bottom board. Get them the proper distance apart, then mark them and cut out with a Jigsaw. The top holes are easy once you get the bottoms cut out. Place a bottom on a top, and make a pencil mark in the center of each hole. You can make the channel stencil out of a piece of cardboard and trace it on, then drill out the hole using a 1" spade bit, or cut out the entire thing with a jigsaw. NOTE: The top and bottom holes should be one above the other, the channel should be off to the side.

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    On the two bottoms that will have caster wheels, screw a 4' section of 2x4, making sure the 2x4 is under the holes you cut. The rod butts will sit on this, and it also gives you a way to attach the caster wheels. I used scrap pieces of 2x4's and scrap pieces of paneling for a bottom covering, but if you use OSB instead of 2x6's, you'll need the 2x4 support.

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    When both bottoms are done, screw all 3 sections together using (3) 1 1/2 inch screws on every joint, making sure to pre-drill to prevent splitting. Then lay one down on a flat, level surface and attach a piano hinge. Stack a second unit on top, align the sides and ends, and screw it to the piano hinge, fastening them together.

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    Repeat for the 3rd unit,alternating sides for the hinge, then roll entire unit up against the wall. Slap a level on top to level it, and attach to the wall with 4 L brackets.

    Put on any hardware, such as hook and eye's and handles.

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  3. Whistler

    Whistler Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,084
    State:
    TN
    Continued from previous post by Riverrat

    Here's a picture of a couple tops and bottoms before they were put together. The rod tips go in the channel and then over to the hole.

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    Since the caster wheels sit on carpet, it's a bumpy ride opening and closing the sections. I had thought the rods would stay on the holes, but a couple of the smaller ones keep wanting to slide out. I put clips next to the holes, the type that rotate, like they used to use to hold screen windows in. Ran out of the clips and only got the back row done, have to pick up some more at the hardware store tomorrow.
    Rat

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