Questions about the Keep Alive tank I just bought?

Discussion in 'LOCAL SOUTH CAROLINA TALK' started by buster1395, Oct 10, 2008.

  1. buster1395

    buster1395 New Member

    Messages:
    111
    State:
    Abbeville, Sout
    Ok I recieved my new tank today with the 1100 series pump. I also bought the 2 oversize filters the recommend for it. The tank has a built in mount in the bottom for the pump but in order for the filters to fit I had to rotate the mount to the center of the tank. Now instead of the pump circulating the water around the outside edge of the tank its blowing directly into the wall of the tank. I was reading somewhere that its better for the pump to circulate the tank. Do any of you guys think its gonna make much difference in the life of the bait like this or not? The tank also has a oxygen valve that causes more or less bubbles by turning the small valve on the tank. How should I set this valve for best results? Opening it all the way causes slightly more noise outside the tank than I want to hear but if its better for the bait I wouldnt mind. Also my last question is what kind of rock salt should I buy and where? Is it the same stuff you make home-made ice cream with from the grocery store? I normally get the guy at neds bait shop to give me a handful or 2 when I buy bait down at santee but I would like to have my own. I did buy some Sure Life shad keeper formula but it cost more than I want to spend every time I refill the tank.
     
  2. biga

    biga Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,111
    State:
    evansville
    i have the same setup and to keep shad you need the water circulating so they can swim.. you can use scissors and trim the filter media as needed to make it fit with the pump you have.. adjust the knob on the back untill the water is slow unough that the shad can swim in place.. the more air it is putting into the tank the less current it will produce,,[[ you will love that tank!!!
    ]]]
     

  3. flatheadhunterx

    flatheadhunterx Active Member

    Messages:
    1,374
    State:
    South Carolina
    I use rock salt in a red box it is llike 99cent a box at bilo. I use 1 cup in my 30 gal tank. it had a pump in the bottom that pulled air in and also filtered the water but it was alot on a battery so I took the pump and filter out and now all i use is a small oxygen tank. I have no circulation in my tank and have no problem keeping herring alive for 2 to 3 days. I can use a 7lb tank for a week without turning it off before it runs out. also I rarely have a problem with foam build up I guess because there is no agitation of the water.
     
  4. martygreen

    martygreen Well-Known Member Supporting Member

    Messages:
    2,224
    State:
    Rock Hill,S.C.
    I use the salt from Lowes,I use the Yellow bag,40lbs for $4.95,the salt in the blue bag is just as good also,thats the one that most bait sellers use around here,sorry I cant call the name brand right now,I just know when I see it:crazy:
     
  5. dudley-1

    dudley-1 New Member

    Messages:
    393
    State:
    SOUTH CAROLINA
    Chris,the shad keeper has many many bait tanks full,its not one bottle full each tank, ( I may be misunderstanding you when you say its too high to use each time),the say $12.00 bottle should get you at least 25 tanks,use just mabey a heaping tablespoon/very small handfull each tank.On the salt I use the water softner salt just like Marty,its in pellet form and supposed to be pure salt(a guy told me years ago that he switched from the rock salt to it,said the rock salt could have some other minerals in it that could harm the bait,,I have though used many tanks of bait with the rock salt,no problems that I knew of.)I think the name is diamond crystal,use a big handfull of it in each tank of shad.Far as you tank goes,I figgure the more bubbles(walve wide open) the better.The water does not have to be swirling for the bait to live,it may be better on them but I am NO expert.I have two of the same kind of tanks one has the spray bar and the other has the air injection like yours.I just run the air injection wide open.I have a big tank that I keep shad in and it dosent have the water swirling...
     
  6. JimmyJonny

    JimmyJonny Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,059
    State:
    sc
    Ace Hardware has the big bags on sale a lot for $5 also.
     
  7. martygreen

    martygreen Well-Known Member Supporting Member

    Messages:
    2,224
    State:
    Rock Hill,S.C.
    I have the Super Bait TankII,30 gallon,I have the air injection on mine,I keep the valve just about wide open,it is mounted on the side of the tank,it gets the water swirling pretty good in a counter clock work swirl,the bait will school up in the swirl staying pretty much still,to me as it was explained to me is what is best for the bait,I use 1 cup of salt,about 2tsp of shad keeper and a couple of drops of Foam Off and have no problems at all,even in the summer time,I also have a cheap digital thermometer in the tank to check the temp ocasionally,if it starts to get a little warm you can add a couple handfuls of ice to bring it back down gradually,you dont wanna shock the bait though,also keep an eye on the filter media and clean it as needed,you should be good to go for a long while
     
  8. buster1395

    buster1395 New Member

    Messages:
    111
    State:
    Abbeville, Sout
    I also emailed the owner of Keep Alive last night and he has responded to me 2 times with some very good information I would like to share with you guys.

    Hi Chris,
    Thanks for the e-mail.
    You can aim the pump in many directions to achieve the motion of water you
    want. Aim it so it hits the tank on an angle so the water will deflect at
    the right angle and get the water to circulate. It takes a little practice
    so don't despair. With non schooling fish, you aim the pump directly at the side
    and open the air control all the way to have minimum currents in the tank.
    Make sure you squeeze the air bubbles out of the filter when you first
    fill the tank.

    From all the experts, I'm hearing that the herring like slower water.
    Gizzards like faster. So, you'll have to experiment.
    Put only a few pieces of bait in to start and see how they last. Then you
    can start adding until you start to see them stress. This is what will
    kill them. It takes lots of practice with these types of bait.
    Make sure you put the bait into a separate bucket first so they can purge.
    The gizzards have a defense mechanism. They poop and regurgitate, and throw
    scales. They put a smell in the water and something shiny for the predator
    to go after (you). After about 10 minutes, you can dip them out and put
    them in the tank.
    Add a little water softener salt to the tank. When they throw scales, it
    leaves open wounds. The salt kills the bacteria that might form. If you do
    it right, you can maintain the shad for at least a couple of days if you
    don't crowd or stress them. Most shad keeper formula has mostly salt.
    Don't worry about the foam on the top. You'll get good aeration underneath
    the foam. Just skim it off. It's fish poop. If you use foam kill, all you
    are doing is sinking it down and they end up ingesting it.
     
  9. dudley-1

    dudley-1 New Member

    Messages:
    393
    State:
    SOUTH CAROLINA
    Chris,I think thats a good deal when the owner will get right back to you and be helpfull with awnsers to your questions.I have a buddy who got another name brand tank and had trouble with it,the owner of the company isnt doing him right(in mine and his opinion,,but I know theres allways two sides to every story ,he bought it as a package deal"striper edition" boat ,came with a 40 gallon tank,he's being told that he has to deal with the boat dealership,the dealership says deal with the tank manufacturer),.The working operation of the tank is fine,its just a cosmetic issue (bad).Ive talked to Ron Vest about my tank years ago when I first got it,and know of folks who has talked to the owners /makers of most other brands aslo.Its a big investment so I'd advise folks to call the maker of the tank and ask questions.On the foam off issue,I have allways used it but the tank I use most of the time has the "old" spraybar system,so I guess the oxygen is coming from the top whereas yours is coming from the bottom,I guess thats why the owner says you dont need the foam off,but I also have the new system on another tank and use foam off in it also.I haul bait a long way in the springtime for striper fishing and dont think using it has hurt my bait at all..As for catching gizzard shad and putting them in a bucket for ten minutes before you put them in you tank,I aint sure bout that,I know in the summer if you catch them and do that,they wont live that long in a bucket,they will get red nosed and stressed quickly in a bucket.If your livewell has rounded corners and bigger than a bucket that may be better for them to purge but be sure it has rounded corners,if not the bait will stack up in the corners and die quickly.
     
  10. JimmyJonny

    JimmyJonny Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,059
    State:
    sc
    Just purge the gizzards in salted, condition, cooled and aerated water first....it's exactly like using your tank.
     
  11. Sunbird

    Sunbird New Member

    Messages:
    781
    State:
    Sandy Run,
    Now that this thread is headed in the direction of "bait tank how to's" I have a few questions of my own. I am planning on building a insert to put in the back of my boat. In this area I want to put a bait tank, 30-40 gal. and have storage on either side and a cutting board top. My question's pertain to tank size and dimensions. Oval or round? How deep should it be? Should I paint the inside? What color? Should I put a light in it, for night time? What is the best circulation, oxygen and filter set up? That is enough questions for now.:eek:oooh:
     
  12. buster1395

    buster1395 New Member

    Messages:
    111
    State:
    Abbeville, Sout
    The BOC has a thread on the mainboard about bait tanks with a lot of information there too.