Question about boat motors..

Discussion in 'Bubba's Outboards' started by e'villeman, Nov 15, 2007.

  1. e'villeman

    e'villeman New Member

    Messages:
    222
    State:
    Evansville, Indiana
    Hey guys here goes dont know if this is the right forum (new user) but i bought and '82 artcraft boat with a 50hp evinrude on the back (cable steered) motor rolls over but wont catch changed plusga and tried to hit it with starting fluid ( no luck) took it over to charlies marine and she said that if it sat up for long it would need both carbs rebuilt (this true) and i was wondering how aften you gotta run a motor to keep this from happening? if i used it once a month am i gonna have to keep getting it fixed? twice a month..etc..all the help i can get would be appreciated thanks in advance
    firsttime boat owner BTW.
     
  2. AwShucks

    AwShucks New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    Guthrie, Oklaho
    It is entirely up to you as to how often you rebuild your carbs... use dirty gas, don't set the motor according to specs, use bad gas or of a grade not for outboards and your going to rebuild carbs more often than ought. The good news is that just about anyone who has made it through first grade should be able to rebuild a carb - in other words, it is not difficult. First recommendation is that you buy a Clymers or SeaLock manual for that particular motor. Secondly, if you don't all ready have once, go to an auto parts store for about $30.00 and get a compression tester and another $7.00 for a spark tester. Read the manual and pay particular attention to the link and sync procedures, throttle/idle settings, etc. Then faithfully take care of your little baby, and it in turn will take good care of you. Owning an outboard should not become similar to owning a money pit. PULL maintenance a few times a year, run a good preservative in your fuel. Your motor will let you know when it needs rebuilt.

    For the condition you described above, the first thing you need is a compression test. If those readings are extremely bad, there is probably no reason to put more money into it unless you want to do a major overhaul. You can always buy another motor, but you may be in the same situation your in now. Do the diagnostics, or perhaps take the boat/motor to an AutoZone and they may run the compression and spark tests for you. You have got to find out the condition of your engine first, and thats through the above tests.
     

  3. e'villeman

    e'villeman New Member

    Messages:
    222
    State:
    Evansville, Indiana
    looked at it and seems really complicated, am i overthinking the problem?
     
  4. olefin

    olefin New Member

    Messages:
    3,908
    State:
    Texas
    My Yamaha 85 HP 2 stroke is not run for 5 to 6 months every year, usually from November to March. Been doing that for the last 13 years. ALL I do is add the required amount of Sta-Bil fuel stablizer to a full tank of fuel each fall. Starts every spring with no problem. Sta-Bil protects fuel for 12 months... double the dosage will protect for 2 years. Unprotected fuel can start to go bad after 2 months.
     
  5. biga

    biga Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,111
    State:
    evansville
    roger if it didnt hit on starting fluid thenhe cant know the condition of the carbs.. if it has spark it should lite off on starting fluid.. ... if you want to bring it by my house tonight i can take a peek at it .. i will pm my phone #
     
  6. Bobpaul

    Bobpaul New Member

    Messages:
    3,039
    State:
    Supply NC
    Your in the right place, but where's that slacker Bubba?

    Bubba, get in here before those guys hurt that TWO_STROKE engine with starting fluid.
     
  7. dougc

    dougc Active Member

    Messages:
    1,709
    State:
    Independen
    Just couldn't resist, could you Bob.:smile2:

    Carb cleaner only guys!
     
  8. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    Sorry about that Bob but the honey do jobs never seem to end.
    Lawerance I am surprised you aren't all over that starting fluid like a duck on a june bug.

    Now take that engine and do as lawerance suggested, But the first thing you want to do is take that can of starting fluid and set it as far away from that 2 stroke as you can set it. That stuff will destroy that motor in short order.

    You need to do a compression check and spark test. If that engine has set for a good while then the carbs are going to have to be soaked and rebuilt, Notice I said rebuilt not cleaned out and put back on.
    Now if you don't feel confortable doing this your self then take it to a tech and by no means try to second guess him because he is trying to save you some grief down the road.

    BTW put us a model number on here so we know what motor we are working on and I wonder why its running cable steering on a boat that was made after 1980 when they quit useing cable steering way before that.
     
  9. AwShucks

    AwShucks New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    Guthrie, Oklaho
    What is relatively easy for one person could be an extremely difficult task for another. If you have access to a digital camera, take all kinds of pictures of the carburetor linkage and the motor in general. Get close ups. Take your time, use the right tools, and take the carbs off. Only do 1 carb at a time. It is easy to mix the parts on a carb and on the most part, it won't harm anything. But it could get your linkage out of sequence and give you some gray hairs. Disassemble the carb and as you take a part off, put it in a ziploc bag. When you have it all the way down, soak the aluminum body overnight in carb cleaner. Use compressed air and blow out the carb body parts, paying particular attention to the orifices. Assemble the carb according to the instructions which comes in the rebuild kit. Put it back on the motor, take the next off, and do the same thing to rebuild it. As I said, its not hard. If you figure you will probably have to take it to a mechanic, then you may as well try the carbs yourself as it is not going to cost you any more.
     
  10. e'villeman

    e'villeman New Member

    Messages:
    222
    State:
    Evansville, Indiana
    LOL.. i'm learning so much! Ok to answer the steering delima i guess i'm still learning it has a box looking thing by the steering wheel with two levers ones for forward/reverse and the others to start it i guess(choke?) key ignition and the steering wheel is run to a bar thingy that actually turns it not a cable wrapped around a cylinder with a bunch of pully's. I took it down to the boat shop and he looked at it and said the manual choke was left on (under the top cap) and was flooding out he checked the lower end and said the lube needed to be replaced and he done so. the forward/reverse lever the moveable handle head was beoke and said for $60 + labor he could fix it and the prop was prety ate up (looks like he hit big rocks or something) and for another $110 he would replace that. so for under $300 i'd be good to go.
    Ouch i gotta learn how to fix this myself or this is gonna get expensive quick!..rofl. Thanks for all the rsponses you guys are great! proud to know ya'!
     
  11. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    That was a good learning experence alright but we will walk you right through fixing one. but lose that can of fluid. As for the prop he is in the ball park for a new one but recondition ones can be had cheaper. Now put that model number up here so I can link you to some good info that will ease your apperension on the learning here. Order you a manuel or go to your public library and check one out. We all had to start one some where.
    Why first time old lawerance tried to own a boat motor he tried to weed eat with it.:smile2: But we all learn. It gets overwhelming but can be ingested when taken the time.
     
  12. AwShucks

    AwShucks New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    Guthrie, Oklaho
    The best thing about your situation is that it is an Evinrude. Now if that was a Merc, I'd just have to use it for an anchor or something such. The Evinrude?Johnson motors are so much easier to work on, and parts are cheaper also. It seems like the issues your having is not necessarily with the motor, but the other components. You should be able to get a used prop for about 50 to 60 dollars - check ebay, but don't go over about 1/2 the price of a new prop and don't forget to check shipping charges. The control box can possible be picked up for about 50 dollars also, and it is easy to swap the components out. I wouldn't worry too much about the warm start lever, as long as you can move it by hand. The carbs, as I have said, is easy to rebuild...think carb kits run about $20.00 and can be obtained at most auto parts stores like Auto Zone, NAPA, O'Rielley's, etc. and are sometimes better in price than a store dedicated to marine parts. Find out what size/pitch prop you have on the motor and post it on the board... you'll probably find a brother that has one laying around.
     
  13. e'villeman

    e'villeman New Member

    Messages:
    222
    State:
    Evansville, Indiana
    pk took the boat out today and she ran great , except in nuetral seemed to idle low and when you first engage eithier forward or reverse seems like it almost dies till you give it some gas then it seemed to kick in and run (sometimes surges) when we got done at end of day and tried to load'er up starter was turning but wouldnt engage just spin ~ hoping starter bendix didnt quit on me ~ low amps or voltage cause it not to engage? on a 1982 50hp evinrude btw...starter would just sit and spin like crazy before starter would engage but sometimes would just start spinning till you stopped and tried to turn it over again
     
  14. e'villeman

    e'villeman New Member

    Messages:
    222
    State:
    Evansville, Indiana
    gonna check voltage to starter in a.m., then check my ground wires to motor ~ gonna see how much carb rebuild kits are and go from there i guess
     
  15. rspd507

    rspd507 New Member

    Messages:
    729
    State:
    Rising Sun,IN
    Roger,
    Not long ago i had a 40 hp Johnson Seahorse that was doing the same thing that you are describing. At first i thought the starter was out, and after finding another starter and put it on, I found it to be doing the same thing. In the end, I found the problem to be that the battery had went bad and wouldnt hold charge. So yes to your question about low voltage, It definately will cause the starter not to engage properly. That definately would be my first move, check the battery and go from there. rspd507
     
  16. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    Low voltage reaching the starter will cause the bendix not to engage. It won't let the starter turn fast enough. You also need to oil the shaft worm gear that the bendix slides up and down on. Not to much but a little as it will sling any excess all up under the fly wheel.
    If that engine is starting and running good I would try some seafoam and do a decarb and add new plugs before doing the carb job.
    Did you put in a new water pump and test the T stat It won't idle right if its not at the right working temp. either
     
  17. AwShucks

    AwShucks New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    Guthrie, Oklaho
    Roger, post a pic of the control box with the broken components. I have a friend who has a bunch of old Johnson/Evinrude parts and may be able to help you out fairly cheap.
     
  18. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    Yea post a picture for us. I have a couple of those things laying around also.
     
  19. e'villeman

    e'villeman New Member

    Messages:
    222
    State:
    Evansville, Indiana
    Working on some pics of motor (dont have digital camara) but just as soon i can get some i will post it (looks like wires inside are brittle and falling apart also..sigh)