Pontoon boat help

Discussion in 'Bubba's Outboards' started by willcat, Sep 10, 2007.

  1. willcat

    willcat New Member

    Messages:
    2,463
    State:
    texas
    Pontoon boat help?? i posted in boat repair instead of outboards sorry!!!!
    ok, i put a new prop on my 21ft toon 3 weeks ago, took my b in law out & it ran fine. Now i took it out last night & it seemed sluggish, but i also had five people(most ever) in the boat & three of them were pretty big guys. Well we took off & it did'nt seem to run like it did before. I put the 10.5 x 13 prop from academy i bought(the old one ran @ 5000 rpms) and it ran fine the first time @ 4000 rpms but seemed to run just like the old one except for the rpms being lower. Now my rpm gauge doesn't work this time(maybe just coincidence) & it semmed to run a little sluggish like i said before.. Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!!oh yeah i hate to say it 1996' 70 horse force, but it's been good to me so far & came with the boat when i bought it!!!thanks again guys!!!!Fairly new to the boating thing so any advice is appreciated!!!
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  2. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    You may not have had a prop problem at all to begin with. Do you have a manuel for this motor. I do bleive you are losing one cylinder. You need to do a compression check and a spark test to see if its hitting on all cylinders.
    With the tach not working it leads me to think you have lost your recetfier, ie the charging system. Some of those forces engines needed that to run. I don't fool with force engines but will try to help you with this one.

    Take you a blade type screw driver and take the pluges out to make sure it doesn't start and stick that screw driver in the plug wire boot and hold the screw driver about 1/2 inch from the block some where that will give you a good clean place to arch the fire from. Th e spark needs to jump from the screw driver to the ground at least 1/2 inch distance and with a good lightening snap. If you have one that won't fire I suspect a coil if two won't fire there are other test to try before replaceing those coils.
     

  3. willcat

    willcat New Member

    Messages:
    2,463
    State:
    texas
    i will try that tonight i appreciate the help very much, thank u sir i'll post the results & hope fully that is all that it is!!!
     
  4. willcat

    willcat New Member

    Messages:
    2,463
    State:
    texas
    oh yeah, i just replaced the prop because it was chewed up pretty bad & that's the one it called for on that motor. It actually ran alot smoother & lower rpm's than the other one on the first time out, but i think i lost a coil like u said, hopefully, i'll let u know when i do the check on it like u said.Thanks very much!!!!
     
  5. willcat

    willcat New Member

    Messages:
    2,463
    State:
    texas
    ok, bubbakat. i did just like u said. On the #2 coil, or the one in the middle, there is no spark, do u think that's my only problem? or do i have to do something else also? I'm lost when it comes to working on these, i mean i consider myself to be pretty mechanically inclined when someone points me in the right direction. I can mess with pretty much anything and figure it out but i figured i would'nt waste any time on this even though that was probably the first place i shoulda looked. Any more advice would be greatly appreciated sir & thank u very much, i wish i could repay u for ur knowledge, but all i can do is rep ya!!!!!
     
  6. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    Take the coil off and channge places with one of the other coils and see if the misfireing will follow it. If it does then replace the coil.
    Post me a model and serial number for that motor and I will see if I can run down the ohm values on those coils and stator. When you get through testing the coils then we will move on to the recetfier.
    As you stated you are just learning this and I don't want you to become confused with to many things at one time.
     
  7. willcat

    willcat New Member

    Messages:
    2,463
    State:
    texas
    the model is a 1996 force, serial#oe135637, i'll have to switch the coils when i get home, it got too late to try that last night, thanks again i'll let u know how that goes when i get home @ around 6:30
     
  8. willcat

    willcat New Member

    Messages:
    2,463
    State:
    texas
    ok i moved the coil to another spot & the misfire stayed in the same spot, i tried switching the plug wires around just to see if that one was bad but not that lucky!!! What's the next step after that???? Again ur help is much appreciated. i followed the wires & that coil has a green & white wire that goes to a black box where all the other ones go to, and the box seems to be a sealed enclosure, so is that my next step????
     
  9. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    Alright then we are going to have to test that box and stator. I will try to post those tests today or tomorrow for you. Good going so far. Glad you are following the directions it makes testing a lot easier.
     
  10. willcat

    willcat New Member

    Messages:
    2,463
    State:
    texas
    was it just a coincidence if it is the switch box??? what made it go out???? i just hope i can fix it to go fishing this weekend . i just found a 75 horse evinrude for 350$ maybe i should just buy it for a spare anyway!!
     
  11. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    If I was going to spend money on a motor I would do a compression check and spark test on the evenrude and buy it. That switch box on that force will cost you mor then the evenrude . The omc's engines are easier to work on and a whole lot easier to diagnose. You can't acutaly test that switch box per say you test all other compononts and if they are good then the switch box is bad at default.

    What year is that 75 h/p
    Now you know I will try to talk any one into getting rid of a force engine.
     
  12. willcat

    willcat New Member

    Messages:
    2,463
    State:
    texas
    well it didnt last long, its gone i think it was an early 80's
     
  13. willcat

    willcat New Member

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    2,463
    State:
    texas
    this other guy has a 1972 johnson 85hp w/all the controls i might go check out for 300$ obo have to check it out first
     
  14. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    Be sure to do a spark test and a compression test.
     
  15. willcat

    willcat New Member

    Messages:
    2,463
    State:
    texas
    ok, back to that force i,m tryin to figure out. I swapped coils, that didn't work. I checked the resistances and voltages & they all cehcked out fine which leads me to believe i need a switch box. Is there anything else i should check??????, i followed the pages to a tee. I called around & found the cheapest one for 230$ locally so i don't have to wait or pay shipping. The cheapest i found on the web was 280$, so i guess i'll go to the boat place in town tomorrow and buy one. I'll let u know how it goes, hopefully be on the water this weekend!!! Thanks for all the help!!!!
     
  16. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    Check the Trigger. Disconnect the Brown/white and the Brown/Yellow wires from the switch box. Test the resistance between them. You should have 750-1400 Ohms. If not you have a bad trigger. If you do get these readings then Check voltage going ti coils from the switch box. Each coil should have 180V+.
     
  17. willcat

    willcat New Member

    Messages:
    2,463
    State:
    texas
    i will check that tonight, thank u sir!!! i shall let u know what i come up with....