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Steve from Mississippi
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It sounds like the prop hub in the prop is slipping to me. I go thru them about every 2yrs. It will slip sometimes when taking off and at max throttle (this is when the load is at max) but will run correct at mid throttle. Eventually it will not work at all. I think trying another prop that is new or you know to be good is the best option first. You can get a new aluminium prop from iboats (lots of sales throughout the year) usually for around $100. If it works use it or go ahead and get another stainless prop. You will have a spare then. Also my buddies and I try each others props out all the time. I even lend my spare out while on the water when they have problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #102 ·
Thanks SteveMck, I will look at that, but if I'm understanding you, you are saying that the shaft coming out of the engine is slipping inside the prop? I don't think the groves are showing any ware on this prop, but will check, thanks.

Does anyone know how a lower unit works? Is there some way that rotational force causes different size gears to engage? Or is it the same gear that just spins faster and faster?
 

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Only forward and reverse gears Heath. The speed is just controlled by the revolutions the prop is making.

You can check for prop spin easily enough. First of all it you take the prop by its self, you have the inner part with the splines that engage the shaft when in the motor. Then there is a hard rubber bushing that is over it and then that is pressed into the outer housing that has the blades on it. So three pieces made to protect that expensing outboard in case you hit a obstruction while running.

To check for spin, take the prop off. Look at the inner view that fits on the spline first. You should be able to see the inner and outer parts. You need to make a mark on the inner piece that has the splined and then the outer part that has the blades. This needs to be basically one mark so if the outer portion of the prop is spinning on the inner portion, you will see that the marks no longer match up.

In an aluminum prop we generally use a pointed object to make a slight scratch in the aluminum but I am not sure when using a stainless prop. Maybe a wax marker like a crayon. Might want to check on that.
 

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I just rebuilt a 20’ and I’m having the same prop issue. I went from a 14 pitch to a 12. My holeshot has improved significantly. But I still get free spin at 4K on the tach. With the oem 14 pitch I’d start the free spin around 33-3400. I have a 10 pitch coming and I removed some type of reversed and enclosed tunnel that was mounted on the bottom of the transom. The red line on my 50hp Yamaha is 6k, the local prop shop said I should be hitting 5500. Lmk what you figure out with the prop and I’ll do the same.
 

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Well it's in the barn. Won't have a door for some time, will seal off the back end when I get some time on a non fishing day. Will probably finish the sides as well. The old door was only 5.5 feet tall, this thing seems huge. I only raised it 26 inches. View attachment 309668
You have the right idea. Keeping a boat in out of the sun and rain will extend the work that you are doing. I have friends that have renovated boats only to leave them outside and ruin all the work that they had done. It retains the resale value too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #112 ·
TrunkMonkey, that is good news. I got to talk to a tracker dealer in OK that told me stock prop, on my outfit would have been 14 X 13. He thinks I will be ok, if I get mine deeper in the water. As soon as I can get the tools lined up again, I'm dropping on a 5 inch backplate. I also think I will be moving to a 14x13 or 14x12 4 blade. Will keep you posted.
 

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I had a Carolina Skiff CC kept uncovered and it would get HAMMERED DIRTY full of leaves, black with mildew...
I would bust out the pressure washer and it would clean up nice

one time it filled completely up with water (leaves clogging up drain plug hole)
 

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Discussion Starter · #118 ·
Seafarer from what I'm learning many props have a plastic or rubber bushing that is supposed to spin if you hit something. Hope that helps. The other thing is that the prop has to get clean water, clearly at speed, as mine comes on plain (as much as a Pontoon plains) its lifting the prop out of clear water.
 

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Discussion Starter · #119 ·
Well you don't know what you don't know. I went to take pictures of the Jack plate and realized I ha e a major problem. The Jack plate motor sits outside the transom and will drag in the water. I learned that the guy I'm padderning my build after modified his transom. I now have to take it off and move it up. Very frustrating, I just want to go fishing. I'm out of money for now. Will just pull it off and drop on the motor, going to guess 2 inches lower. Jack plate will have to wait.
Vehicle Automotive exterior Auto part Car
 

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Seafarer from what I'm learning many props have a plastic or rubber bushing that is supposed to spin if you hit something. Hope that helps.
,

The motor never did this when I bought the boat 20 years ago. It's was unused for about 17-18 years until I resurrected it last year. I never hit anything with it. Prop looks perfect on the outside. When I launched it this time the motor started freewheeling at about 3/4 throttle. No power to the prop.

I marked the inner/outer hubs so I'll see what that shows. I ordered another prop yesterday. Should carry a spare anyway.

My motor has a 2.00:1 final drive. The prop I ordered was 12.2" diameter and 8 pitch. This is the same as what was on it when I bought the boat.
 
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