Please Help, I'm Slightly Overwhelmed

Discussion in 'Boat Repair Help' started by photocat, Jul 2, 2006.

  1. photocat

    photocat New Member

    HOCO, Maryland
    Ok... Now i keep getting differing oppinions on how to fix my boats flooring... some say use marine grade plywood w/ epoxy over coat... others say regular exterior plywood fiberglassed 2 layers... What do you guys think is best? should i spend the extra money and go with the marine grade or will exterior work well enough?

    What about for fixing the transom... i just noticed the other day that the wood in the transom is rotted right where the motor (a smaller 7.5hp is located now) should be... How should i go about fixing that? One person (my neighbor who's worked on a few boats and has owned many over the years) said to epoxy over the old put epoxy inbetween the old and a new layer and then epoxy over that... Will that work? This will be my first time doing such a major renovation/repair on the boat and i really don't want to see my boat go sink to the bottom of the potomac when i take it out anytime...

    I'll probably be posting more on here in other posts as the project goes along so please keep an eye out to help me... Any advice will be helpful
  2. Tennfisher

    Tennfisher New Member

    On your transom, I would say that the most important first step is to determine why you have a problem. If the wood frame under the epoxy is deteriorating, then there must be water getting to it. Determine where this is coming from and get it stopped. Has the transome deteriorated to the point that it flexes when you push or pull on the foot of the motor when the motor is locked down? If yes, then I doubt that epoxy alone will solve your problem. The ultimate solution of course is to replace the transom, but this could be very expensive. Since you are only running a smalll motor, you might consider first stopping the source of the problem, then reinforcing your existing transom with an aluminum plate across the transom with the motor attached to it. This would distribute the stress over a larger area that hopefully includes some more solid portions of the transom.

    Hope this helps.


  3. Mark J

    Mark J New Member

    Four Oaks, NC
    Dont cover rotted wood. It will continue to rot and rot what you cover it with.

    If I had a source close by for marine ply that is the way I would go.
    If I didnt but didnt mind the shipping costs on 2 sheets of ply that is the way I would go.

    The reasons I would use marine ply are it is stronger. no voids in the laminations, Meranti marine ply doesnt check, and in the end its a whole lot cheaper to fair out. Definately go the epoxy route but even with epoxy on pine or fir ply it will still check. When it checks it will check through the epoxy creating a place for water and moisture to enter.
    Meranti ply is to boat building as God is to the bible. Its some beautiful wood and a pleasure to work with.
    You'll spend more money going the home depot route to get an acceptable looking install compared to paying the price for marine ply up front with a marine epoxy.
  4. Pogo

    Pogo New Member

    North Carolina
    You've been given some very good advice already and, as usual, the ultimate choice is yours.

    I also far prefer marine ply over any other choice for just the reasons the others have listed, but ... I do admit that it's more expensive and sometimes difficult to locate.

    You could use regular 1/2" construction ply for your floor. Stained and epoxy encapsulated, it will last several years. Fiberglassing it will only add unnecessary weight and the epoxy is all you need to eliminate any water absorption.

    For transoms, however, I use two layers of Marine 3/4" epoxy laminated into one 1 1/2" thick piece that's far stronger than any single piece of wood.

    I also agree that a transom replacement is the way to go ... trying to eliminate and replace just the rotted section can be far more work than making a new transom and almost (if not equally) as expensive with no absolute guarantee that you removed every bit of rot.

    I can easily make, finish and install a transom in a day's work, but curing and drying times extend that to a three day process for an aluminum boat. Mounting, glassing and gelcoating a transom into a glass/wood rig would take another day's work over 3 calendar days.

    I don't know what type or size boat you're talking about here, but with a 7.5 HP engine, I figure it's in the 12 to 14 foot range. I invite you to read my post(s) on (last year) my 12' Alumacraft skiff and my recent Polarkraft 14' rebuild. Both have pictures and info on the transoms you'll see. I use pretty much the same procedure on every transom, including 21 footers that I've done for others. I didn't know how to post pics with the narrative, at the time, so the Polarkraft pictures are a separate post from the bebuild narrative.

    There are also very many other good info posts here on building/re-building transoms.
  5. SeedTick

    SeedTick New Member

    Conway Arkansas
    Here is the post Larry was referring to.

  6. photocat

    photocat New Member

    HOCO, Maryland
    I'll post pictures tomorrow so you can see the condition of the transom...
  7. curveball

    curveball New Member

    Saint Clairsville, Ohio
    Better late than never but since I just came on board and love this board.

    Be sure and secure the motor to some part of the boat other than the transom with a cable or a chain. If that wood gives way while you are on the water you could lose your motor.

  8. Ol Man

    Ol Man New Member

    Good advice, curveball... and Welcome to the BOC...:smile2:

    Ol' Man
    Only dead fish go with the flow.