Old Chrysler 45 HP

Discussion in 'Bubba's Outboards' started by 223Smitty, May 27, 2006.

  1. 223Smitty

    223Smitty New Member

    Messages:
    478
    State:
    Indiana
    Got one that came on this old boat. Dad said it'll crank, but won't fire....which tells me to look at either the fuel or ignition system(s). Any problems inherent to these motors? It's currently off the boat, I'm just trying to get a step ahead on fixing it by asking now.

    Also, (if I can get it running), I have no idea of the "history" of this motor, and would assume an impeller replacement would be good "insurance"?....can I even get parts for this motor?

    A couple final questions, other than the things I've mentioned, along with a tune-up & fluid changes, anything else I should do? And what ratio fuel-mix do I need?

    I can get the #'s off the motor if it'd help with any answers, and I have no manual/information about the motor.

    Thanks in advance!
    Smitty
     
  2. Bobpaul

    Bobpaul New Member

    Messages:
    3,039
    State:
    Supply NC
    Smitty, there's a few guys on here that can give you the information you need. Before the day's over, you'll have most of what you asked for.
     

  3. Arkie55

    Arkie55 New Member

    Messages:
    669
    State:
    Mississippi
    Smitty,
    I would check ebay for parts. Last time I tried you could still get parts for Chrysler outboards but it took some time. That's been a good long while ago (about 10 years) so I can't say for sure. Major parts can probably be found through outboard salvage places. Lots of those around the country and parts usually are about 1/2 what new ones cost.

    The chrysler I had was a 55hp and I was told that the coils were the problem source on those engins. I only had to replace one while I owned my motor. First thing I would do is check for spark. If you have a good strong blue spark, then I would check fuel. The carbs probably need cleaning anyway. I would replace the fuel line from tank to motor and all fuel lines on the motor itself. Change the lower unit oil and check for metal shavings. Do not attempt to start the motor without water hooked up to the water pump intake on the lower unit. Not knowing the age of the motor or any history it's likely the impeller in brittle. Changing it would be the right thing to do but I wouldn't do it until I know the motor would run. Hope this helps.
     
  4. turtle1173

    turtle1173 New Member

    Messages:
    611
    State:
    Mayfield, KY
    Trapper,

    A couple questions for you: Can you see the coils when looking under the cowling? Is there a black or gray box (like 6" X 6") anywhere to be seen on the motor?

    Yes, get us the model number for the motor. Should be something like: 457HD. Get a spark tester and check for spark while cranking. If you aren't getting spark and you have the black box, it is likely the box. If you aren't getting spark and you don't have the black box, it is likely the points.

    The points will be under the flywheel. If you don't see the coils on the outside, they will also be under the flywheel.

    If you have spark on both, then I would hook up some water to it, squirt some pre-mix into the carb throat and crank it. It should fire. At that point, it's time to clean the carb!

    There are plenty of parts around for Chryslers, you just have to know where to look, LOL!

    All Chryslers run on 50-1. Get the spark issue figured out and then you can worry about the impeller, carb and lower unit oil.

    Before sinking much money into it, I would want to do a compression test also.
     
  5. barry

    barry Member

    Messages:
    61
    State:
    WV.
    Looks like there are several of us with old Chrysler owners on the BOC, I got a "72" 55hp. One place which has helped me for parts has been,
    http://www.laingsoutboards.com/ for new and used parts
    Another that Bubakat gave me is,
    http://www.twincityoutboard.com/
    If you get it started make sure that you have water cooling through the motor even when you test it. If you have water or not I would replace the impeller, as insurance
    For your serial number it should be on a plate on the left side of, clamp bracket altho it is sometimes on the right side. Failing that you also may have a " power head serial number" stamped on the left side of the cylinder block.
    Getting parts without the numbers can be a real bear.
     
  6. 223Smitty

    223Smitty New Member

    Messages:
    478
    State:
    Indiana
    Thanks for all the replies! Again, I really haven't even spent any time looking at the motor (yet), just wanted some input before I got to that point.

    I did notice that there are 2 coils on it, so I'm guessing the black box tutrle1173 mentioned is electronic ignition? Or is it a module for the standard ignition? Also, I only remember seeing 1 carb on it, and it looks to be new(er).

    I just got in & cleaned-up from working on the boat today, so I'll give it a better look tomorrow & have alittle more information to offer. I did also remember seeing a tag on it with a model & serial # & I'll write those down as well. I'm about ready to hang it back onto the boat anyhow.

    I'll definately have water to it before attempting to fire it, and will try to get it to atleast run before I spend any cash on it. Thanks again to all for the help, advice, and links.....that'll get me headed in the right direction!

    Smitty
     
  7. 223Smitty

    223Smitty New Member

    Messages:
    478
    State:
    Indiana
    OK, I put the motor back onto the boat today, mixed-up a fresh batch of fuel & after a few minutes of cranking, got the motor to fire :big_smile:

    I am going to get a set of plugs, change the fluids, pull the carb & fuel pump & clean them as well as replace all the fuel lines. I'm also going to order a repair manual & impeller kit for the motor. Taken the advice given, I wanted to see what I had to work with before investing any money in it.

    I did a compression test too, 1 cylinder at 120lbs, #2 was 125lbs...didn't think that was too bad. Thanks again for the help!

    Smitty
     
  8. 223Smitty

    223Smitty New Member

    Messages:
    478
    State:
    Indiana
    I wondered if anyone could tell me the year of this motor (Chrysler) The model # is-45761, serial#-13410. I'm guessing I'll need to reseal the lower unit as it was full of water. After tearing into it, the carb, fuel pump (diaphram), and impeller were all in "new" condition (pliable & flexible), outside of a little "crud"....also cleaned the puddle valve.

    Need to ID the year so I can order a manual, spare impeller kit, and L/U seal kit.

    Thanks!
    Smitty
     
  9. 223Smitty

    223Smitty New Member

    Messages:
    478
    State:
    Indiana
    Have some other questions about the L/U, which may be where the leak is from.

    1- There are 2-1/4" holes (see pic & arrows), 1 had a regular hex bolt in it, the other was empty. These don't appear to be "factory" holes....should I plug them (maybe with allen-type set-screws & sealant)?

    2- There's no gasket where the L/U mates-up to the bottom of piece between the motor & L/U, should there be?

    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v438/223smitty/junk/Boat/IM001640.jpg

    Thanks!
    Smitty
     
  10. turtle1173

    turtle1173 New Member

    Messages:
    611
    State:
    Mayfield, KY
    Smitty,

    Your motor is a 1967. Sorry, the example I gave you for the model number only applied to early to mid 70's.

    Glad to hear you got the motor to fire. That's great news!! Good compression also!

    I'm not sure what to tell you about those 1/4" holes. I seem to recall there being a drain hole to allow water to drain after the motor comes out of the water on my 55HP (which I don't have anymore) but I don't recall it being that large. With a hex bolt in one, that seems odd. Is the 2nd hole threaded also?

    I don't believe the manual calls for a gasket between the Lower unit and the intermediate housing. I don't have my Chrysler manual anymore, so someone else will need to verify.
     
  11. 223Smitty

    223Smitty New Member

    Messages:
    478
    State:
    Indiana
    Thanks Shane for the info....now, can you put me onto a fish like the one in your avatar? :big_smile: I ran across some of your posts on another Chrysler site, picked-up alot of good useable info there.

    No problem on your previous post info, I was running alittle ahead of myself by posting questions before I'd taken the time to really look at the motor, plus, the boat is a '73, so I would have assumed the motor somewhere close as well.

    I thought the compression wasn't too bad either, but was just a guess not knowing anything about outboards. The hole on the right was threaded with a 1/4"X20 bolt stuck in it, the left one wasn't threaded & was "open". I did plug the threaded one with a setscrew & teflon tape. Do you think I should leave the other open?

    Would still appriciate any input if anyone knows about if there's supposed to be a gasket on the top mating surface of the L/U. I can't see how the L/U could be "sealed" to retain lube & keep the water out.

    Thanks!
    Smitty
     
  12. barry

    barry Member

    Messages:
    61
    State:
    WV.
    Smitty; There is no gasket on mine between the motor and the lower unit. The 2 holes that you have marked with the arrows I do have on my 55hp and they are not pluged and open, they have to be drains, as I am not getting any water in my lower unit. The next hole below the marked holes in your pics,the one on the right is the shift pivot bolt, Motor will not shift without it. You will have to pull the lower unit apart to put it back in and it has a gasket you will need to replace.
     
  13. turtle1173

    turtle1173 New Member

    Messages:
    611
    State:
    Mayfield, KY
    Ah Oh, I didn't even notice that shift pivot hole from the photo. I was just looking at the arrows. Yeah, that's bad news that the screw isn't there. Smitty, did you take out the screw or is it missing?

    As Barry said, all the shifting depends on that screw. If you happened to take out that screw and haven't moved the shift shaft much, it might possibly maybe hopefully go back in.:crazy: However, the odds of that are not real good. If you've messed with it at all, you are going to have to disassemble the lower unit to get that screw back in right.:sad2:

    A gasket between the lower unit and the intermediate housing wouldn't serve much purpose. The oil is held in by a seal around the drive shaft and a seal around the shift shaft.

    Now, if you are really depressed after reading all of this, just come on over here to SE Missouri and we can get after some BIG Cats! That will surely take your mind off of your motor trouble :big_smile:
     
  14. 223Smitty

    223Smitty New Member

    Messages:
    478
    State:
    Indiana
    Yeah, I did pull that screw out, mainly because I wanted to replace all the washers on them. Is there any way I can determine if the screw goes back in correctly? I haven't moved the shift rod any.

    Thanks for the help!
    Smitty

    turtle1173- Sounds like fun! lol....heck, I got so many "problems" I have to work on this boat/motor to cheer myself up :big_smile:
     
  15. turtle1173

    turtle1173 New Member

    Messages:
    611
    State:
    Mayfield, KY
    Smitty, I've done it once before but I was being very careful when I took it out. Someone had put a regular screw in the hole and (of course) it wouldn't work. This was on a 55HP Chrysler. I took the lower unit off and laid it on its side to do this.

    Put the screw in slowly and see if it goes in without binding. You should also be able to look inside the screw hole and see if it's lined up. If it's come apart in there, you'll have to disassemble. If it's still together but just not quite lined up, you can jiggle the shift shaft as you're putting the screw in.

    I did this with the lower unit off, so to test it I pulled the shift shaft up and turned the driveshaft clockwise while watching the prop rotation. Then I pushed the shift shaft down, rotated the driveshaft clockwise and watched the prop go the other direction.

    If working on your motor cheers you up, just go ahead and tear into that Lower Unit. You will be on cloud nine for days, LOL!:003:
     
  16. 223Smitty

    223Smitty New Member

    Messages:
    478
    State:
    Indiana
    I was able to get it back in without any trouble (outside of alittle wiggling of the shift rod). Got the carb & fuel pump rebuilt kits installed yesterday, new fuel lines & filter on, and L/U lube in, so not too far away from attempting to fire it back up & see if the work helped any.

    lol.....there's already been a time or two this motor's made me talk to myself :crazy:

    Thanks
    Smitty
     
  17. Arkie55

    Arkie55 New Member

    Messages:
    669
    State:
    Mississippi
    Outboards are funny about that, making us talk to ourselves. I had never been in a lower unit until last spring. The thought of all those gears, thrust washers, and seals made chills go up and down my spine. Well, I had a clutch dog that was getting worn and needed to be turned around. With the help of the good folks here and a little praying, I jumped in the middle of that project. Getting everyting out was easy. Getting it all back in was a little trying. Came back to the board, posted a question and got a PM from Coach within a few minutes telling me what I needed to know. After the PM I had the lower unit assembled and back on the motor in about an hour. I no longer fear a lower unit.
     
  18. turtle1173

    turtle1173 New Member

    Messages:
    611
    State:
    Mayfield, KY
    Isn't it amazing how it's easier to take something apart than it is to put it back together, LOL.

    Smitty, glad to hear you got it back in there. You must of been holding your mouth just right also :tounge_out:

    Let us know how she does when you crank her up!!
     
  19. 223Smitty

    223Smitty New Member

    Messages:
    478
    State:
    Indiana
    Arkie55- lol....yeah, and mine weren't all "nice" words ! :roll_eyes:

    Thanks Shane. Going to the BMV tomorrow to get the title & registration work started. It's a home-built trailer, so had to have the County PD out today for an inspection & signature on a form to apply for a VIN #.

    Got the lights wired, did alittle electrical, so it's getting closer all the time. Installed new axle & springs yesterday. I will probably wait to actually get the boat in the water to fire it up. I'm afraid to run it much in a barrel, but probably will just to confirm it'll atleast fire easily).

    I'm also trying to figure out the throttle cable....doesn't seem to crank the throttle much (barely moves it).

    Smitty