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Not a boat repair discussion:

1K views 7 replies 5 participants last post by  1gr8bldr 
#1 ·
I am putting this in the boat repair because I wasn't sure where else to put it. Really all I am wanting to do is satisfy my curiosity a little. I bought a new boat/motor last year the factory break in procedure was grueling to say the least. My neighbor bought a new SxS last week his factory recommended break in is quite lengthy also. I bought a new zero turn mower and when I asked the dealer about the factory recommended break in procedure, he said mow with it till you get ten hours, change out the break in oil and enjoy the best mower made today (little dealer hype I guess). All three machines are powered by gas fueled four stroke engines, so why does two manufactures recommend break in procedures that has RPM limitations and one just recommends use it? I understand the break in oil change as metal parts wear together metal shearing is likely.
 
#4 ·
I would almost certainly bet it is due to tolerances between components. The more the cost of the engine (boat engine) the closer the tolerances hence the more critical the break in period. Parts have to wear to fit properly on closely toleranced products to reduce heat and swelling due to heat. I know of one guy that was told not to rev over 4000 rpm on a new rebuilt Harley engine. What did he do? Took off promptly and reved to about 6000 rpm. Instant lock up was the result. Had to tear down and repair. I don't figure mowers and such are anywhere near that tedious.
 
#5 ·
Could be Steve, I have rebuilt several SB Chevy engines for folks and always advised them to follow proper break in procedures but have no idea if they paid me any mind, another buddy who was building engines back in the day too told folks "drive it like you just stole it". The only problem I ever had with one I had built was a spun cam bearing don't know about my buddy.
 
#6 ·
The likely reason is bass fisherman.
Get in a brand new boat and race from spot to spot. At full throttle and near max RPMs. People dont do that to cars or lawnmowers. Hence you dont have to worry about problems as much.

After reflecting on how new my motor looks. And the fact he told me he hunted 1/4 mile from the ramp. Im wondering if the proper break in was done on my boat.

After sitting for 2 years im wondering if i shouldnt do some kind of break in period on it?
 
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#7 ·
The issue with break in is 2 different directions. One contradicts the other. Gearing, moving parts, bearings, etc, need breakin or "wear in". Compression on the other hand needs the motor to be put to work to "seat" the rings. Not to be confused with revving. Ideling a rebuilt or new engine is the worst thing you can do to it. Equal to or worse than revving it. If the rings don't get pushed out, expand out of the piston ring groove, pushed out fully, seated "proportionally" then when you do put it to work, Your compression will not be potential. With any new motor, put it under a load, just don't rev it, and don't work it excessively. Load the boat with any weight you can find to keep it under load, or working. A typical heavy boat will work an engine.... but a 150 on an aluminum boat.... it's not working. It needs to be loaded down
 
#8 ·
The likely reason is bass fisherman.
Get in a brand new boat and race from spot to spot. At full throttle and near max RPMs. People dont do that to cars or lawnmowers. Hence you dont have to worry about problems as much.

After reflecting on how new my motor looks. And the fact he told me he hunted 1/4 mile from the ramp. Im wondering if the proper break in was done on my boat.

After sitting for 2 years im wondering if i shouldnt do some kind of break in period on it?
After 10 hours or so, it will not matter. Worst case, your compression might not be 100% of it's potential. But with hours building, compression is always diminishing over time. People rarely recognize it because it comes on so slowly over time
 
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