No-Roll mold tips?

Discussion in 'Terminal Tackle Review' started by okiekrawler, Jan 24, 2007.

  1. okiekrawler

    okiekrawler New Member

    Messages:
    147
    State:
    roland ,oklahoma
    i ordered a do-it mold from cc for no-roll sinkers. i have done bank sinkers before, but nothing with a core pin. does anyone have tips for puoring weights?
     
  2. Gordhawk

    Gordhawk New Member

    Messages:
    1,378
    State:
    Iowa
    I have a Do-It no roll sinker mold. Anything specific you want to know about them? I noticed you mentioned something about the core pins. Do you have a specific question about them? I'll be glad to answer any questions that you have about this mold,just fire away! You won't regret buying that mold as it is a high quality mold,and well worth the money.
    If I can be of any help to you,don't be afraid to ask.
    Glenn
     

  3. Katmandeux

    Katmandeux New Member

    Messages:
    1,618
    State:
    Checotah, Oklahoma
    I've got one, too.

    Just like other molds, get 'er hot, and keep it there.
     
  4. brad kilpatrick

    brad kilpatrick New Member

    Messages:
    2,666
    State:
    Kansas City
    use a light coat of vegtable oil to lube the core pins, It will make them pull out much easier
     
  5. dinkbuster1

    dinkbuster1 New Member

    Messages:
    2,272
    State:
    Ohio
    throw out the core pins and fashion you a "pin" out of a wire coathanger with a loop on the end to pull with your finger! works way better than trying to pull that thing out with pliers. also, get you an empty pop can and cut the top off. fill to the rim with vegetable oil, motor oil, corn, or watever oil and dip your "pin in there every 10 cast's or so to keep it pulling easy.
     
  6. AwShucks

    AwShucks New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    Guthrie, Oklaho
    Two things I'd recommend, mostly as others have all ready stated. About every three pourings lubricate the core pin and the molds hinge. I use regular old motor oil as a lubricant, seems I have more of that around the shop. Secondily, I fire up the oxy/acet welder with no oxygen and put a real good coat of soot all over the mold. This enables the poured sinkers to release from the mold. I fabricated new pins from brass welding rods, and let them cool off between pourings.
     
  7. Mickey

    Mickey New Member Supporting Member

    Messages:
    14,592
    State:
    Illinois
    I agree with all the above post and will add one thing to lubeing the core pins.I use Pam cooking spray on the pull pins. Efficent -Not Messy- Not pricey. I hope this helps.:big_smile:
     
  8. STICKBENDER

    STICKBENDER New Member

    Messages:
    131
    State:
    Missouri
    I run a die cast shop, best thing you could use for lubricating pins is plain old bees wax, you can buy a toilet seal that should last you a lifetime of sinkers. just run wire into it as required.
     
  9. okiekrawler

    okiekrawler New Member

    Messages:
    147
    State:
    roland ,oklahoma
    looks like the most important thing is keepin the pin lubed. thanks for everyones input. i should have my mold by monday. i will give it a shot and let you all know how it turns out.
     
  10. CatfishHateMe

    CatfishHateMe New Member

    Messages:
    669
    State:
    Il
    glad you posted this becuase i was gunna have to do it, im lookin at buying a do it no roll mold from gander mountain, im having my cousin over next weekend sometime and were gunna make a bunch of sinkers to get a jump on the cat season and the only mold we have is a do it 1-5oz egg sinker mold, does do-it make molds for winged split shot? if they dont i guess if i really wanted one i could buy a blank mold and take it to my buddys dad to have him set me up for split shot but itd be alot easier if they sold them.
     
  11. kscathunter

    kscathunter New Member

    Messages:
    2,367
    State:
    Louisburg,
    yep they make um (removable split shot molds)
     
  12. s_man

    s_man New Member

    Messages:
    3,012
    State:
    south east ohio
    You can do like Dink said and make a pin out of coathanger. Just get a dowel rod 1/2 inch or 3/4 thick and drill a hole and wrap 3 or 4 turns or so, it will give you a handel to help pull.
     
  13. okiekrawler

    okiekrawler New Member

    Messages:
    147
    State:
    roland ,oklahoma
    well so far i have made about 100 no-rolls. this new mold is awesome. i just wanted to thank you guys for your help.
     
  14. jtrew

    jtrew New Member

    Messages:
    4,404
    State:
    Little Rock, AR
    Jayson, IMO, it's not worth the time, trouble, and $$$ to pour your own split-shot sinkers. They're so cheap, it's better to just buy them. I do, and I've got a split-shot mold. But I mold just about everything else, from 3/8 ounce bank sinkers up to 2# cannonballs. I also pour a lot of my own jigs. And don't ever get suckered in to buying a poor quality mold just because it's got a cheap price. The extra work they cause isn't worth the money you save.
     
  15. canebreaker

    canebreaker Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,307
    State:
    Southaven,MS
    Like everyone's said, lube the pins when needed.
    Keep the mold hot.
    Pull the pins while sinker is still in the mold.

    Like Jerry Trew said, the trouble with pouring your own removable split shots, it's worth it to buy them.
    Bass sinkers with the swivel isn't worth the trouble either.
     
  16. jtrew

    jtrew New Member

    Messages:
    4,404
    State:
    Little Rock, AR
    The bell sinkers with a swivel molded into the top are ok if the sinker is small, but I've got a mold that makes them up to 8 oz. Didn't take many hard casts to find out that the swivels just won't hold up to that kind of pressure. So, I made a very slight modification to my mold so that I could use a piece of coathanger wire instead of a swivel. That gives me something to tie onto that won't come apart in the middle of a cast.