New Fuse Holder

Discussion in 'Bubba's Outboards' started by Hootowlc3, Feb 5, 2008.

  1. Hootowlc3

    Hootowlc3 New Member

    Messages:
    409
    State:
    Florida
    I bought a new fuse holder. It only has a place for the + wire. What I am asking, is it ok to ground to the hull of a alunium boat? Or is there some other way to wire the ground? I really don't want to have to run all the ground wires to the battery.
     
  2. Wabash River Bear

    Wabash River Bear New Member

    Messages:
    3,019
    State:
    Indiana
    When I wired my aluminum boat I ran a ground cicuit for all my electrics that went to battery ground. I didnt like the idea of using my hull as a ground plane. Aluminum, water, and electricity combined are really not very compatable. I was afraid electrolysis would eventually take its toll on the hull.
    Thats just my take on your situation. I'm sure others will be along soon to prove or disprove my reasoning. I myself would rather be safe than sorry. Good luck.
     

  3. AwShucks

    AwShucks New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    Guthrie, Oklaho
    Sometimes druthers need to take a back seat to reality. Run the ground wire, you'll be money ahead.
     
  4. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    Go get a ground buss bar and install it under your console or where ever you mount your fuse panel and run one hot to fuse panel and one ground to the bar from the battery and you haven't got all those wires going back there.
    Make sure you use a big enough wire to accommodate the current traveling through it.

    Never ground anything to the hull of the boat.
     
  5. catfishcrazy256

    catfishcrazy256 New Member

    Messages:
    2,648
    State:
    Indiana
    TAKE TIME TO RUN A GROUND WIRE IT WILL B WORTH IT IN THE LONG RUN !
     
  6. Hootowlc3

    Hootowlc3 New Member

    Messages:
    409
    State:
    Florida
    Thanks for all the replys.
    I think I will add the ground bar. I just don't like all those wires on the battery. The only wires both ground and positive I will have going to the battery will be the trolling motor. Everything else is low amp.
     
  7. Big Dav

    Big Dav New Member

    Messages:
    1,016
    State:
    Southwest
    The ground buss bar is the way to go. Just don't' go with any "Radio Shack" type buss bar. They will rust out pretty quickly or at least I have seen them rust over in less that a year. The presence of metal, moisture, and electricity makes for a lethal combination for the metal. You can purchase the buss bars made from stainless and designed for what you are doing. Depending on what accessories and the amp draw you will have I would guage my wife size on that. I never run anything smaller than 8ga for an accessory use / bus bar under the console. DC voltage is much different than AC, it requires much larger wire size to travel over any distance. Just whatever you do, don't under size you wire. I would also suggest marine grade tin coated wire for any wiring that is going in a boat. Be sure to use a breaker or marine fuse assembly withing a few inches of the battery (less than 18" if possible) on the positive wire. It will protect you battery in case the wire ever became shorted.
    Ebay is a pretty good source for the wire and stainless buss bar. If you can find them when you need them.
    Here is another source for the fuse blocks and or stainless buss bars. http://www.bluelaketackle.com/blue-sea-2300-busbar-plus-10-gang-common-p-4542.html
    http://www.bluelaketackle.com/blue-sea-2314-minibus-5-x-832-common-bus-wcover-p-29376.html
    This is what I went with for power and ground.
    http://www.bluelaketackle.com/blue-sea-5026-fuse-block-screw-term-blade-p-4798.html


    Thanks
    David
     
  8. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    Get a can of liquid tape and cover all the ends and it will help to keep down corrosion.
     
  9. Hootowlc3

    Hootowlc3 New Member

    Messages:
    409
    State:
    Florida
    Thanks Dave I will give it a shot. I am looking for some of the liquid tape also. thanks again.
     
  10. Big Dav

    Big Dav New Member

    Messages:
    1,016
    State:
    Southwest
    Your welcome. Any chance I get I go with stainless on a boat. If they offer a stainless steel option I think it is worth the extra to go with stainless. Do it right the first time or do it again sometime down the road. Electrical problems is not something I want to be dealing with a 4 am when I am trying to get back tot he trailer and go home.:eek:oooh::crazy:
    You can find liquid tape at Lowe's, Wal Mart or most any auto parts store like Advance auto. I like the Plasti Kote brand liquid tape the best. I have not had good experiences with the 3M brand liquid tape. Takes forever for all flammable vapors to go away. I like to use liquid tape on all my solder connections and then cover the solder connections with adhesive lined thick wall heat shrink. Over kill but I don't have any problems with my electrical after I am done wiring a boat. Also I never use or trust a crimp connection. I use non insulated connectors, crimp them into place with a quality set of wire crimper's (not the all in one striper/ crimper, Thomas & Betts or Klein are quality crimper's) and then solder the connector and cover in adhesive lined heat shrink.:big_smile: I don't take any short cuts or chances with wiring.
    attached is a picture of the Thomas & Betts crimper's I use and recommend for any time you are going to crimp connectors. Klein also makes a decent pair and they are unusually cheaper the the T&B crimper's.
    Thanks
    David
     

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