Need help with penn reel basics

Discussion in 'General Conversation' started by FS Driver, Aug 25, 2006.

  1. FS Driver

    FS Driver New Member

    Messages:
    2,323
    State:
    swansea,illinoi
    i opened a thread in the proper section (fishing reels) but out of 57 looks
    i had 2 replys ! thanks Rupert and Peewee i do appreciate your responses
    i still have trouble though.

    my question i asked in that thread was how to go about setting up a penn
    reel to cast it .

    my particular reel in question is a 112H 3/0 senator

    this rascal did the same thing tonite with me as my other one i used (ONE TIME) ...... it cast out about 15 feet and made a godaweful splash right in front of us at the river tonite prompting me to attempt to loosen the brake
    or whatever the little cap is on the left side.
    after loosening this and the star drag i tried again with the same results
    so i set it down and used my other pole the rest of the evening .

    i am not sure what i am or aint doing right as i have never been told how to use one before .

    the pole i have this on is a stubby 6foot boat rod that is stiff as a board
    and the weight i was attempting to sling was an 8 ounce river type weight
    set up carolina style .
    i thought this thing would have whizzed out there pretty far but i was very wrong.

    any tips or advice would be appreciated.
     
  2. flathead willie

    flathead willie Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,241
    State:
    Virginia
    I have an old Penn like that but I don't think they were made to cast. They are trolling reels. Mine was on a boat pole too and that don't help. Most of the times I tried to cast it the sinker wound up behind me. LOL
     

  3. kccats

    kccats New Member

    Messages:
    634
    State:
    Olathe, Kansas
    Well, the drag has nothing to do with the casting.
    Tighten that down how ever you feel comfortable according to the lb test line you are using.

    I'm no expert on casting penns, but thats what I use and all I can afford.

    The other knob you adjusted is the one you need to mess with.
    It needs to be adjusted according to the amount of weight you are using.
    Since you are using a very heavy weight, it would need to be adjusted tighter than normal.
    What is normal?
    Holding your rod up, disengage the reel but keep your thumb against the spool. Let off your thumb and let it drop a bit. You want it to be able to drop but not so fast that it is going to spin your spool really fast. Tighten it down so that it does drop at a good speed.
    You won't be able to cast it very far using this meathod. What that is basicly is a break.
    Also, you need to throw a higher arc.
    This all takes practice.
    You will still need to use your thumb as a break as well.
    You had better stop the spool from spinning as soon as it hits the water or you will have a birds nest.
    Once you get good at it, you can start adjusting the break down more and more providing longer and longer casts. This is because you will be using your thumb more and more as the break instead of the knob.
    This is what I did....
    I went to the lake... in the day time.... with only an 8 oz weight on it.
    I practiced over and over casting.
    Your going to get some bird nests now and then...
    It is quite different at night casting for sure. You get a feel for it after awhile.
    The newer reels don't operate like the penns do.
    You can cast the crap out of them about a mile without birds nests.
    Hope that helps some.
     
  4. Davidsed505

    Davidsed505 New Member

    Messages:
    43
    State:
    Ohio
    http://www.charkbait.com/article/2004/Walt_Galen.htm

    Go to this page, and re-invent your reel.
    I have a couple of Penn reels, 85, 209, 285 and 500 jgmaster. Love em to death, but couldn't cast consistently with them. The principals shown on this webpage can be applied to many reels. Must be metallic spools, not plastic or graphite. My first introduction to this was with the jigmaster. Every now and again, I'd launch a beauty cast, but that was 1 out of ten. The rest had the sinker smacking down right in front of me. After magging, I can consistently cast, and haven't had a major "sit down with a dental pik" birdsnest since. Not 100 yards, but enough for a bank-bound fellow like myself to fish. I'd say, being conservative, with a 9 ft med-heavy pole and 4 oz sliding sinker, I can consistently get 35-45 yards. the page mentions the website to order the magnets, etc from. I got enough to do three reels for around 10 bucks or so total. Careful, though. Too many magnets, and you'll have to throw your shoulder out to get the bait where ya want it. It is a trial and error thing, so follow the advice about using a lighter glue initially. Then when ya got it how it needs to be, go with a heavier epoxy. I chose to use E-6000, just cause I use it daily at work. Its tough, will hold, yet you can pry it loose if need be. Another word of caution. The reels I have done this to work great with 4oz of weight, minimum. If you set it up to launch 4oz, then switch to 3oz, it's "where's my dental pick". Different reels may not need as much weight. Hope this helps. PM me if you have any problems.
    Here is another site that shows adding mags to a squidder and jigmaster!
    http://www.songslinger.net/magsquid.htm
     
  5. Davidsed505

    Davidsed505 New Member

    Messages:
    43
    State:
    Ohio
    i was looking at a schematic for your reel, and you should have room on the clicker side for a magnet or two. I'd start with only one. Also, don't rely too heavily on the bearing cap tension. I read that this can wear out both side bearings prematurely. This site has schematics/histories of i think every Penn made.
    http://www.scottsbt.com/catalog/store/112H-Schematic-Parts-List-P54775C5826.aspx