Motor Has Not Been Started in 5yrs. or so !

Discussion in 'Bubba's Outboards' started by T-Bone, Oct 21, 2005.

  1. T-Bone

    T-Bone New Member

    Messages:
    1,125
    State:
    South of Dallas
    I just got a 1983 15hp Evinrude. The owner had not started it in over 5 years. He tells me the only thing ever done to the motor was a carb. re-jetting. It has never seen freash water. Questions:
    The gas has been drained, the cover has been removed to see if everything is there. No corrsion on parts under the cover or on the outside of the motor.
    1. Can anyone please tell me were to start with this motor? Should I mix up some gas 40:1 and try to start it? I have a new Water Pump kit for it. Not yet installed. Waiting for a manual to come in. When should I replace this part?
    Are carbs. on this type of motor similar to dirt bike carbs?
    Since the motor has never been in freash water only salt, should I be concerned?
    2. The starter gear/flywheel gear seem to be worn (theeth). Can I use this or do I need to replace them? They are not real bad, but you can see where they are worn on one end.
    Any advice would be Greatly Appreciated.
     
  2. Bobpaul

    Bobpaul New Member

    Messages:
    3,039
    State:
    Supply NC
    Remove the spark plugs and rotate the flywheel by hand, after first squirting some 2 stroke oil into the cyl's.

    Seeing no corrosion is a good thing.

    Removing the lower unit should go good if the motor's been flushed after each use in salt water. If it won't come off, it'll be because the drive shaft is siezed in the crank shaft. I've never been able to remove a lower unit once that happens.

    Try to change the water pump as soon as you can. Be very careful with this . The bolts holding the lower unit on are easily broke in salt water used engines. A very important tool in working on salt water engines is an acetyline torch.
     

  3. Bobpaul

    Bobpaul New Member

    Messages:
    3,039
    State:
    Supply NC
    The carb is very similar to a 2 stroke air cooled engine and don't worry about the starter just yet, it'll probably be fine.
     
  4. T-Bone

    T-Bone New Member

    Messages:
    1,125
    State:
    South of Dallas
    Thank You Bobpaul, I appreciate the info.

    One thing though, If I was to use a tourch, how hot do you get the bolts? Glowing red? Or just some heat? Thanks again All your post are Very Helpful !
     
  5. djlabs

    djlabs New Member

    Messages:
    45
    State:
    MO.
    Definently pull the plugs and coat the cylinders with a light coat of two-cycle oil. I have played with several motors that had sat for a long time (five to ten years) as a general rule the carbs normally have to be rebuilt due to o-rings dry rotting. A good thing is that the carbs are usually very easy and cheap to rebuild on these motors. As far as the bolts go, I would use nothing more than a propane torch to heat them, and don't get them cherry red - just keep some pressure applied while heating.
    Good luck with the "new" motor!
     
  6. Bobpaul

    Bobpaul New Member

    Messages:
    3,039
    State:
    Supply NC
    Sorry I missed your post of the 21st.

    Heating with a propane torch doesn't work very often on salt water engines.

    I learned how to use acetyline by practicing on junk motors. If you've never done it, don't start in on your motor. An acetyline torch will make aluminum disappear not just melt.

    If you've got access to an old junk motor, see for yourself, it's amazing.

    To do it right, always keep the torch moving and never concentrate the heat in one spot for more than a second. The smaller the bolt, the less time it takes to break the corrosion. Aluminum oxide is one of the toughest things there is to overcome in saltwater used engines, and intense heat is about the only way.

    Sometimes it takes heating up and letting it cool a few times before it comes loose.

    One more thing, until your comfortable with the feeling of a bolt loosening or the heads about to break off, use a 1/4 inch drive ratchet and sockets.

    Heavy leather gloves and eye protection are a must.
     
  7. T-Bone

    T-Bone New Member

    Messages:
    1,125
    State:
    South of Dallas
    Thanks for the replys guys. I think I'll try the 1/4 ratchet , gloves and eye protection and if that don't work I'll find someone that can work with acetyline. I'd hate to melt my motor. I feel pretty good about rebuilding the carb myself.

    Thanks again guys, I had no idea about how to go about starting this motor, or about heating the bolts.
     
  8. Bobpaul

    Bobpaul New Member

    Messages:
    3,039
    State:
    Supply NC
    It's more about heating the area the bolts are threaded into than just the bolt itself.

    It's a real joy to work on a motor that's never seen salt water.