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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First, let me say I know extrememly little about outboard motors,except maybe a few very basic things. I just acquired a boat last summer for the first time in my life and the thought of owning one had never crossed my mind.

This boat turns out to be a 1973 19 ft Starcraft. The old Bill Dance series, if that tells you anything. It runs a 73-74 115hp Evinrude.

The tilt was shot and so was all the wiring. The wiring was there, just totally rotten. So I replaced all the wiring without any problems. Then I managed to locate an inboard hydraulic tilt unit and figured out how to by-pass the old tilt with this unit because I liked the idea that it wasn't exposed directly to the water. So far it's been a great little boat for the wife and I.

Now friends tell me I should be replacing the water pump and vein and that this is supposed to be a simple operation that only takes a short time.
I agree that it needs doing simply because the boat was neglected for so long and I know very little of its' history.

My problem is that I don't see any visible bolt pattern on the outside of this engine that would appear to allow access to dropping the lower unit for this repair and I don't have the foggiest idea of how to go about it.
I DO have most any tool imaginable from building car engines most of my life, so I'm not scared of the job. I'd just like some sort of reference on this particular motor and what to expect before I risk screwing something up.
 

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Cecil, look on the lower unit at the plate just above the propeller. Normally there are four bolts on the bottom that holds this assembly onto the upper portion of the lower unit. Then there is a trim fin on the lower unit. Scribe a mark on the unit so once replace, you can reinstall it in the same place. Once you have it off, there is a larger bolt in a hole covered by the trim fin. Before you start removing the bolts, you need to first disconnect the shifter lever. It is normally a rod on the left (port) side of the engine. Have someone move the shift handles while you watch for the moving parts. Gosh, guess I should have told you that you have to know if your motor is an electric shift or a manual. The procedures are different for each type. Maybe it would simply be best right now for me to stop and encourage you to get a manual for your motor. They'll run about $40.00 but save you at least $200.00 each year with the instructions. While your waiting for your manual, check with a public library in your area to see if they have a manual. If so, you can normally get the pages Xeroxed that has to do with the lower unit removal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm pretty sure this thing is a manual shift. It's the old F N R shifter that has cables running back to the motor. Someone mentioned disconnecting the shifter rod. Since it's so old I doubt it would shift electronically.
 

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Cecil, Post the model number (normally located at the lower left side of the motor, on the mounting bracket). Bubbakat will need that for sure. Also, just so you have the info available, see if you can get a compression check made on the engine. Not necessary for your question on the lower unit, but good info to know. I have a '72 Evinrude with the electric shift. The model number will let you know for sure. And I believe most shifters are F N R type.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'll check into those numbers. I've been meaning to do that anyway so I can write them down and carry them in my wallet in case I need them when I drop by the boat dealer unnecssarily.

I do know the boat had about $1,800.00 worth of work done on the motor before I got the boat and It usually fires before it turns over twice, idles very smooth, and runs like a scalded dog. I was hoping things would be good to go except for that water pump. It never seems to run warm or anything. I just thought the pump would be a good preventative idea.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I didn't get a chance to get the numbers today. Snowed hard here all day. Tomorrow doesn't look good either. It's the wifes' day for her arthritis infusion at the hospital. Usually takes 6-7 hours. depending on appointment time, dark might catch me, but I WILL get them asap because as I said, I want to keep them handy just in case I need something else. I appreciate the help and sorry for the delay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Finally got numbers :

Engine serial# J 0003866
model # 115593
( Small possibility the second 1 could be a 7 )

Boat serial # STR 102248M74H
Can you help give a description of the boat itself from that ? I'd like to learn about its' design purpose and maybe a litte history.

Thanks a bunch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I was just looking at that info and it seems I have an extra number in the middle (maybe my stupidity), but even the last four digits make no sense to me either according to this list.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I did take the time to read your library post on the subject, but it didn't seem to explain much more than you,ve already mentioned, since I haven't been able to determine whether I have a manual or electric shift situation as of yet.
 
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