Manual or hydraulic jack plate?

Discussion in 'Boating' started by Big Dav, Oct 3, 2007.

  1. Big Dav

    Big Dav New Member

    Messages:
    1,016
    State:
    Southwest
    I don't know if this needs to be posted in boating or not. Sorry if it is in the wrong place.:embarassed:
    I have done some reading up on jack plates and think I have the concept in grasp. My question is if you get a manual jack plate adjusted for the best performance why would you need a hydraulic jack plate?
    From what I have read the cavitation plate (i think that is what it is called) needs to be about one inch above the hull of the boat for every six inches of set back??? I don't have any experience with jack plate yet but I will be getting some in the near future. Would i ever want to or need to replace a manual jack plate with a hydraulic or electric jack plate? I know it will allow me to raise the motor up higher but can't I do that with the trim?
    Thanks again and sorry if this is a stupid or repeat question.
     
  2. cliff n york

    cliff n york New Member

    Messages:
    221
    State:
    south carolina
    good question i will wait for someone to answer, i want to know also
     

  3. illinois_angler

    illinois_angler Member

    Messages:
    151
    State:
    IL
    A typical jon boat hull will see little performance gains with a jackplate. A boat with a pad hull will see the most increase in performance which is on fiberglass boats and some aluminum boats. A power jackplate will help out in shallow waters letting the engine come straight up unlike a trim/tilt which will actually push the transom down in the shallow water.

    If you do alot of fishing where you run shallow, a hydraulic jackplate will help out. Be sure to have a water pressure gauge installed if you run with the engine up.
     
  4. jim

    jim New Member

    Messages:
    2,579
    State:
    Jacksonville NC
    Dale gave you a good reply.I would talk to some jackplate manufacturers and tell them what boat you have and engine.They will pretty much shoot straight for you and tell you if you would see any significant gain.Trailer boat magazine lists several in the back section.Manual or Power.Well if you are the type that can set something at its "Best" position and leave it alone and be happy with what you have then manual is the answer.If you are like most bassers and speed freaks that want every last 1/10 of a mph out of your rig,or if you fish shallow water a lot, go power.I actually fished with a really good fisherman for years until he bought a bass boat with all the bells etc.We spent more time running up and down the lakes constantly adjusting trim,jack plate etc so we could go 69mph instead of a measly 68.I finally quit fishing with him.Not enough fishing time.I have a boat with a 200Merc Optimax with power trim and tilt, plus trim tabs.I know properly trimmed out it will go 56mph with just me in it.Since I normally cruise at 35mph and only on blue moons open it to WOT I rarely ever trim it at all.Operating at most efficient cruising speed as opposed to WOT will extend the life of your motor about 20 fold according to the industry experts.:smile2::big_smile:
     
  5. Big Dav

    Big Dav New Member

    Messages:
    1,016
    State:
    Southwest
    Dale and Jim,
    Thanks for the replies. I would like the do it once and leave it method. I don't like to boat ride I like to fish. I just don't want to ride a bucking bronco on the way to fishing spots.:smile2: The boat I just got has a manual jack plat on it and I think it is adjusted pretty close but I am not one that would know. The boat rides great but I did notice when you start trimming it out it will start bouncing. I haven't spent any time messing with it as of yet. I was just wondering if it would be worth it just to order an adjustable/ hydraulic unit and just replace the manual adjust jack plate. Once I had a hydraulic plate adjusted I don't think I would mess with it anymore. It would be nice to have if I got into some shallow water without realizing it (been there and done that) but I think I can do what I need with the manual adjust and the trim. K.I.S.S. (keep it simple stupid) method works the best for me.

    Thanks for the replies, any suggestions on checking and if need be setting the manual jack plate?
     
  6. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    A Manuel jack plate will do anything a hydro one will. You will have to adjust it manually. As for the bouncing as you called it it is in fact porpoising. The jack plate doesn't cause that. The tilt and trim controls that part. When it starts that just trim it in a little.
    A jack plate will let you raise that motor until the prop breaks the surface, that is where the pressure gage comes in handy. Most use the jack plate to raise the motor right before blow out so they will have less drag and thus creates more speed.
    When this is done its called raising the x factor and some will even add scuppers to the water pick up to insure water is getting to the motor.
     
  7. skiff_2

    skiff_2 New Member

    Messages:
    92
    State:
    South Carolina
    The jackplate also moves the motor about 5 inches back. They say the "cleaner" or less turbulant water back there gives a performance increase. I am gonna git me a hydraulic model someday for my Carolina Skiff. But I live at the beach where tides constantly influence water levels and you can do some really shallow running. If I really, really wanted to have one for a lake boat, I'd get the manual model too.