Making Sinkers Smooth?

Discussion in 'Terminal Tackle Review' started by miichael, Jul 17, 2006.

  1. miichael

    miichael New Member

    Messages:
    380
    State:
    North Carolina
    Is there something i can spray my mold with to make my sinkers smooth? all of mine iv done has little pits and lines on them. There solid all but the outsides. I noticed they seem to do better after doing a bunch and the mold gets hot but is there something i can do to help get smoother looking sinkers? What is smoking the mold? how do you do that? any info on this be great.

    I'm making 1, 1 1/2, 2, and 3 oz no roll sinkers with the Do-It mold and lee production pot bottom pour.
     
  2. JAinSC

    JAinSC Active Member

    Messages:
    1,514
    State:
    South Carolina
    The lines and pits are because the lead is cooling before the whole mold is filled. You can heat the lead up hotter or preheat the mold, or both. If you just go fast from batch to batch (don't let the mold cool down in between) it will help.

    Be sure to do you melting outdoors. The smoke from melting lead can kill brain cells. Not much left for me to lose, but you might want to watch out.
     

  3. miichael

    miichael New Member

    Messages:
    380
    State:
    North Carolina
    I think the problem is the lee pot just dont pour fast enough. can you make the hole in the bottom larger on them?
     
  4. rodpod

    rodpod New Member

    Messages:
    518
    State:
    Evansville, Ind
    I had the same problem you are experiencing with the lee pot. Pour the first mold, and let the lead sit in the mold for a minute or so, then put the wrinkled weights back in the pot. Then do it again for about 30 seconds, put those back in the pot, then do it every 30 seconds until the mold is so hot that it is making smooth weights. It just takes a few rounds before its good and hot.

    I have another problem. When i pull the pins i get alot of sharp slag pieces around the top hole. Im afraid this is going to weaken my main line from the abrasion. Ive been trying to grind it off, but im wondering if theres a way of preventing it.

    I got a cast iron pot and a kerosene burner i want to try with a ladle. I think that is going to work better. Especially filtering all the junk out.
     
  5. canebreaker

    canebreaker Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,307
    State:
    Southaven,MS
    Smoke the mold:

    I'll take a piece of pine lumber, split it up, try for the knots. Burn them and while burning, hold the mold upside down over the fire. Turn the inside of the mold black as possible. This will help with release of the sinkers.
    Don't use a tool to open the mold in the cavity area, do it in the handle area.
    Use a pair of cutters to hold onto the spar of the sinker to remove if it's stuck.
    Don't pry between the sinker or spar and the mold.

    Oil a rag and wipe down the pins as often as you wish between pourings. I oil my pins about every 3 to 5 pourings.

    Lay your mold across the top of the pot while lead is melting to heat it up.
     
  6. Ol Whiskers

    Ol Whiskers New Member

    Messages:
    290
    State:
    Fairfield Township, Ohio
    Take the cold mold and clean inside with alcohol or acetone, away form any flame or heating element. You can smoke the clean mold cavities with a BIC lighter. Just turn the flame uphigh, hold the mold upside down, and paint the lampblack onto the mold with the tip of the flame.

    I use a leftover can of fogging oil, or ATF, sprayed onto a clean cloth, to wipe just a very little bit of lube onto the core pins. Too much and you get a puff of smoke and gas holes in the center of the weight.

    Try pouring a set or three just to heat up the mold with the core pins, put 'em right back in the pot, and pour again.

    Pour one sinker at a time, at the back of the hole. If you crowd the hole it will back up air into the cavity. Pour so a lump of lead develops on the sprue, and pour so the sprues run together. When you open the mold, use a pliers on the sprue to grab the hot sinkker set out in one piece. Set them aside and pull the pins and break off the sprues after they're cool. That way you can keep pouring and the mold stays hot.

    If you sweat, don't get anywhere close to the pot. One drop is a big steam/lead explosion!

    Dennis
     
  7. HRCats

    HRCats New Member

    Messages:
    1,081
    State:
    Ohio
    Rodpod, Sounds like you're pulling the pin before the lead sets completely. I wait 20 - 30 seconds before pulling and haven't had any problems. I am pouring 4 and 5 oz egg sinkers.
     
  8. rushing

    rushing New Member

    Messages:
    561
    State:
    Minnesota
    Like was stated above your mold just isnt heated up yet. When my buddys and I first started pouring we had the same problem but once we figured out what was going on we havent had the problem since. Also when you mold gets hot the weights will fall right out of it. You kinda get in a groove and even the pour spout nubs will fall off so you wont have to clip them off.
    We poured 70lbs of lead yesterday.
     
  9. rushing

    rushing New Member

    Messages:
    561
    State:
    Minnesota
    I forgot to mention about the Lee pot. We have use one as well. We have problems with the tip too. I guess you get what you pay for. We got the cheap one and it pours like its cheap.
     
  10. Georgiajack

    Georgiajack New Member

    Messages:
    345
    State:
    Georgia
    Thanks for the post. The answers here are going to improve my sinkers also. Good fishin', Jack.
     
  11. canebreaker

    canebreaker Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,307
    State:
    Southaven,MS
    I let the mold sit about 20 seconds after the lead frost, pull the pins while still in the mold. Bike wheel spokes are stainless steal. Bend about an inch at 90 degrees, make the pins a little longer if you wish, grab the pin with pliers, twist and pull.