Original post made by Darrel Miller(Cornhusker) on May 27, 2002 I just finished making up 10-15 pounds of wheel weights into a spoon shaped "No Snag" sinker. I have made and used these sinkers since the 1950's. They do a nice job for me. I did buy a new mold about 3 years ago and I have been very impressed with the quality of the mold and the weights it produces. It is made by the Do-it Molds Co. Click Here for their web site. When I make sinkers I use a Coleman propane camp stove for heat. The burner doesn't have to be set all that high to melt the weights. Be sure you are outside or have a good draft because (1) Tire weights stink like the devil when you melt them the first time. (2) Because the tire weight is an alloy and not pure lead it melts at a higher temperature which can give off some lead fumes. Don't know about you but I don't need the health problems that can come from lead. I went to the Meijer discount store and picked up a nice little 2 to 3 cup all stainless steel sauce pan that had a small pouring spout bent in each side and a good sturdy handle. I place it on the Coleman burner with about 1 1/2 to 2 pounds of tire weights in it. Wait for the tire weights to melt down. You will also need Eye protection, goggles. A glove or hot pad for the sauce pan handle because it will get hot. A pair of needle nose pliers to pick the steel clips from the tire weights out of the molten lead. A tablespoon to skim off the floating dirt and slag. A second metal container to put the wheel clips and slag in, waste. A pair of regular pliers to remove the sinkers from the mold. An oil can to frequently oil the mold hinges. When the tire weights melt down and the lead alloy gets hot the steel clips will float on the lead like a boat on water. The lead will not stick to them and very little comes out of the pan with the clip. You can use either the needle nose pliers or tablespoon to pull them out. I generally use the needle nose pliers. Place them in the second metal container for waste. Now take the tablespoon and just lightly scrape the surface of the molten lead to move the slag to the side of the sauce pan. When you can get some of the slag in the spoon remove it and put it in the waste container. When the slag is pretty well cleared away you should be ready to pour. Set up a work place to pour that is fire proof. Things are going to get very hot. This work place needs to be close the burner and sauce pan of molten lead because you don't want the lead to cool down while you walk from one end of the garage to the other. I have a steel plate I set on the second burner of the camp stove so I do not need to move to make a pour. The mold will be cold so the first 2, 3 or even 4 sets of weights will not form properly in the mold. That's fine. Keep pouring because you are getting the mold hot. When you pour, try to get a steady stream of molten lead about 1/8" in diameter coming from the sauce pan to the mold. It has to be a steady continuous pour. Pour the weights, place the sauce pan back on the burner, count to 5 and open the mold. Pull the weights out using the regular pliers and lay them on the metal work plate. Do not put poorly formed weights back into the pot until you melt a new batch. Doing so will cool the hot lead and make pouring more difficult. Continue this process until you have used up the molten lead in the sauces pan and then start again. While you are waiting for the new batch to melt clear off the work area. Place the good sinkers somewhere to cool and the bad ones back in the pot to melt. There will be a riser of extra lead on the weight that needs to be cut off. Wire cutters does a pretty good job or you can buy "Flush-cut" nippers from Do-it that work very well. After cutting off the excess lead I take a very course file,amost like a wood rasp, and smooth off the cut to eliminate any possible sharp spots. Be Careful this isn't something to play with. It can seriously hurt you.