Lawn Mower Help

Discussion in 'Other Repairs' started by SSG Johnson, Sep 3, 2005.

  1. SSG Johnson

    SSG Johnson New Member

    Messages:
    638
    State:
    Saint Robert Missouri
    If you are having trouble keeping your lawn mower started this may be helpful for you. If you are able to start your mower and then it seems that it slows down and then up and then down I may have an answerer for you.

    1) On your engine there is a silver cup that is under the carburetor at the bottom of this cup there is a bolt usually made of brass. Find this nut.

    2) Drain your mower of Gas.

    3) Loosen the nut off and look and see what comes out it could be your mower has water in the cup if water comes out loosen the nut completely and then dump the water out of the cup. Be careful not to rip the gasket around the cup and around the nut.

    4) This is a very important step Take a bread tie that comes on a loaf of bread and remove the skin on the outside of it.

    5) When you look at the brass Nut you will see that it has 3 holes in it these holes must be clean for your mower to work properly. Take the bread tie and clean out the holes in the nut.

    6) After cleaning out the cup and the nut put your mower back together and prime the carb. Your mower should start now and the problem should be relieved.

    7) At the end of the mowing season remember to run your mower out of gas and loosen the nut once again to remove any gas left in the cup this will keep the gas in the mower from going bad as it will not have any in it. The next season fill with gas prime and your mower should run great. I have also heard of people putting oil in the gas tank and then pulling the sting a couple of times to keep the parts lubed through the winter. I have never tried the oil thing but i always run my mower until the gas is gone and drain the cup every year and this works fine. It keeps the carb. from becoming varnished over and doesn't allow bad gas for the next year. This could save you a few Dollars next year.
     
  2. FS Driver

    FS Driver New Member

    Messages:
    2,323
    State:
    swansea,illinoi
    good advice chuck,
    that carburator is not on all models though.
    that sounds like a tecumseh type .
    although briggs does have a simular carb .
    they are mostly on the larger engines on riders.
    to drain the briggs type that cas the carb on the tank
    there are a few screws that need to be removed anywhere from 5-7
    it takes a 7/16 and a 1/2 socket to remove tank off mower
    the 7/16 is attathed to the head and the 1/2 to the side of the block
    sometimes there is a spacer between the tank and the block.other times its already attached.

    gas tanks do get water in them from the breathers usually, or from
    the gas can. and they will get condensation build up too.
    the main thing ive found on the briggs lawnmowers is either the filter is dirty ,
    or plug is fouled . and after a couple seasons the diaphragm between the carb body and fuel tank goes bad.
    also the little govenor spring can get stretched out of whack also.
     

  3. Bobpaul

    Bobpaul New Member

    Messages:
    3,039
    State:
    Supply NC
    Chuck, if you've got a boat and take care of it like you do your lawnmower, you'll probably never have a fuel related problem.
     
  4. cook

    cook New Member

    Messages:
    1,494
    State:
    Plattsburg,Mo.(near K.C.)
    Or hire the local kid to mow the yard for yourself.:)
     
  5. FS Driver

    FS Driver New Member

    Messages:
    2,323
    State:
    swansea,illinoi
    around my area of the block MY SON is the local kid . LOL

    ive had to get our mowers up and running more times than i care to count.

    i think he is getting better about a walk through first before cutting.
    the repairs have dropped off a lot.
    that or hes already hit every tree root and got em shaved down to where they don't cause the flywheel key to shear on contact with the blade any more .

    i should buy stock in briggs and stratton LOL
     
  6. davesoutfishing

    davesoutfishing New Member

    Messages:
    479
    State:
    Menominee Michigan
    Hi guys/and ladies.....I have a 12.5 horse 38 inch cut yard machine that I think the rod connecter broke is this a hard fix or should I just get a used engine ?
     
  7. SSG Johnson

    SSG Johnson New Member

    Messages:
    638
    State:
    Saint Robert Missouri
    could you explain what the rod connector is?
     
  8. davesoutfishing

    davesoutfishing New Member

    Messages:
    479
    State:
    Menominee Michigan
    connects to the piston and crankshaft
     
  9. Catbird

    Catbird New Member

    Messages:
    294
    State:
    Fayetteville, Ohio
    Chuck, I think he means connecting rod (rod between crankshaft and piston).

    Dave, I have never done that repair. When taking apart a couple of engines I have had this happen to, I found more damage such as cracked or badly scarred cylinder wall. Also, on one occassion, crank was messed up. If that is your case, you may want to go with a used engine. By the time you get parts, have those parts machined to fit each other, the cost adds up. The best thing to do is take it apart and verify your damage. You may get lucky. The mechanics of the repair isn't very complicated.
     
  10. RamRod

    RamRod New Member

    Messages:
    2,047
    State:
    Ohio
    It's really not that hard to repair. You might want to keep in mind that something caused it to break to begin with.

    Most of the time when the connecting rod breaks it's due to lack of lubrication. Which causes the connecting rod which is usually made of aluminum to heat up and practically weld itself to the steel crankshaft resulting in a broken connecting rod.

    So, do what catbird stated and open it up and see what caused the problem and see what else needs to be fixed. Typically you can get a rebuilt block for $200 - $300 from briggs and stratton which is the motor that should be in that MTD Yard Machine.