Keeping shad alive

Discussion in 'Shad Talk' started by tncatfishing, Dec 20, 2005.

  1. tncatfishing

    tncatfishing New Member

    Messages:
    916
    State:
    clk. tn
    I have an aireater for my 5 gallon bait bucket, is it worthwhile using it to keep shad alive. They die real fast as you all know. I have had the thing for a while just never used it.
     
  2. flathunter

    flathunter New Member

    Messages:
    5,723
    State:
    Ohio
    It may keep them alive for a short period of time, I would not put very many in the bucket...I have kept appx 8 6-8 inch shad alive in a five gallon bucket with air for appx 1hr.
     

  3. spoonfish

    spoonfish New Member

    Messages:
    3,780
    State:
    Warsaw, Mo.
    You should be able to keep a 1/2 dozen or so alive in it. The main thing is not to put to many in it at once. Also keep the water cool if it's hot out. Placeing a frozen water bottle in will help.
     
  4. tncatfishing

    tncatfishing New Member

    Messages:
    916
    State:
    clk. tn
    Something that I have noticed, I have seen this one guy catch shad and put them ina huge cooler, and they would stay alive for hours. He had atleast a couple dozen or more in their, they were small shad but they did stay alive till he left and gave them to me.
     
  5. Catcaller

    Catcaller New Member

    Messages:
    1,511
    State:
    SoutheastKansas
    The shad die because of an amino acid buildup in the water. They're not a very hardy fish. Did you notice if he was putting an additive into his baitwell? If they weren't so easy to catch when I need them...I'd probably use some sort of additive. But, I use a 6 gallon insulated bucket with a Frabill stone aereator to keep a half dozen good sized shad alive for an hour or two. It's easier to keep a few alive than a bunch. I just catch them as needed. I have had a problem in the past using a square cooler...the shad would congregate in one corner and drown I guess. Using a round container eliminated that problem.
     
  6. tncatfishing

    tncatfishing New Member

    Messages:
    916
    State:
    clk. tn
    No he was not using an additive but they were small shad.
     
  7. Catcaller

    Catcaller New Member

    Messages:
    1,511
    State:
    SoutheastKansas
    I have better luck keeping just a few alive in a bucket. Now with perch...I can keep 4 dozen alive for over 24 hours in a 70 qt cooler with a 12v aereator...as long as I keep changing the water every 5 or 6 hours. I just don't have much luck keeping the shad in large numbers alive for long myself....but they are so plentiful in the spring, and it's too easy to catch new ones to worry about the ones that die in the bait well. They can still be used as cutbait. Sometimes fresh cut shad or shad guts out does live shad.
     
  8. tncatfishing

    tncatfishing New Member

    Messages:
    916
    State:
    clk. tn
    Sometimes at night they can be hard to catch if they are not running. And I have had my best luck with shad guts.
     
  9. TOPS

    TOPS New Member

    Messages:
    4,099
    State:
    Cabot,Arkansas
    Shad is very hard to keep alive when you are poor and can not afford all those fancy bait keepers. I do not even try anymore! maybe one of these days I will be able to keep the shad alive. :D :D
     
  10. Ol Whiskers

    Ol Whiskers New Member

    Messages:
    290
    State:
    Fairfield Township, Ohio
    Shad need salt. Set up with about a half-cup of salt dissolved in clean water each bucket. When you net some shad, put 'em directly in the first bucket for about 5 minutes. Transfer these fish to the second bucket, and look at the water in the first - probably specks of shad puke and slime floating about. This is the shads' reaction to being captive. Change it if it gets nasty. First bucket lets 'em get it out of their system, second bucket is then clean water and fresh shad. Aerator helps, and don't change the temp from source to bucket drastically.
     
  11. teamclose

    teamclose Guest

    i usually get shad on the way to the river. for this i have got a 110gal tank that i keep in the bed of the truck. i have never tried to keep more than about 60 shad, but those 60 would have stayed alive as long as you wanted them to.
    i just have a recirc pump that i have run into a piece of pvc w/ a cap on the end and holes drilled the length of it. no fancy filters or anything, i just take good care to prep the shad in a 5 gal bucket first. by prepping i take a bucket w/ good clean water in it and mix about 2 cups of pickling salt. this strong mix "shocks" the shad. it doesnt kill them, just hardens their scales and makes them puke up whatever they are going to puke up in the bucket not in the tank. then i use a net to put the shad in the tank so that the water stays good and clean. the water in the tank i use 1.5 boxes of salt. since i have started "shocking" the shad i havent had any problems w/ them losing their scales or the water foaming real bad.
    once i get to the river i put them in the livewell w/ a few cups of salt and the recirc pump on and your good to go all night!
    hopefully this gives you guys some ideas.
     
  12. Deltalover

    Deltalover New Member

    Messages:
    1,227
    State:
    Tracy Calif
    I usely fish where I get the live shad and only keep half a dozzen at a time. Though I do try to stock up on enough fresh shad, (which is way better then shad thats been frozen) for a day or so. I also get enough to stock my freezer for when the shad do stop running! Often times in the early winter, stripers will chase them right up to the bank! One of those "flow through bait buckets" work great and takes no batteries! I have thought of making one from a 5 gallon bucket, that would hold maybe a dozen.
     
  13. akwolf41

    akwolf41 Master Instigator of the BOC!

    Messages:
    725
    State:
    Kenai, Ala
    You guys have the secret to keeping shad alive. SALT SALT. One other thing that will help is to not use a SQUARE or RECTANGULAR Tank. Use a Tank with ROUND corners and that way, they will not KILL themselves. That is the way Striper Guides do it and they will last a very long time. The other members before me have posted good info.

    Just some info I have learned:

    Gene

     
  14. catfishcentral

    catfishcentral New Member

    Messages:
    1,497
    State:
    OK
    Here's a couple of shad tanks that I use. One for the boat and the other bank fishing. Easy to post links than writing again. Non-iodized salt is type you need in your tank. I just buy the two pound packages at Wally World in the baking isle. Then empty the carboard box into a good ziploc bag with a measuring cup. I found that the cardboad box didn't hold up too well in the boat and boats don't like salt.


    http://www.catfish1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2862



    http://www.catfish1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1652
     
  15. rockbass

    rockbass New Member

    Messages:
    1,107
    State:
    Ohio
    I use a 30 gallon tub as a biat tub in the bed of my truck. I have actually kept shad alive in it over night and into the next day before. This was with air and they had space to move of course. Keeping the water cool is a must. I usually don't bother trying to keep any alive though. :rolleyes:
     
  16. TeamWhiskers

    TeamWhiskers New Member

    Messages:
    536
    State:
    Missouri
    Try using a meat tenderizing salt for both your shad and gold fish. This neutralizes the acid build up in your bait livewells better than basic rock salt. A few pinches of this type of salt because of the purity content go along way as you really do not want to puke the fish.
     
  17. beaneye46

    beaneye46 New Member

    Messages:
    209
    State:
    indiana
    you can add about 1 cup of salt to every 25 gallons to cold water. The kind of salt you put on your driveway in the winter.
    the water needs to be cold and the container needs to be circular because the shad will swim into any corners and will kill themselves eventually and the water needs to be continuosly circulating with a water pump because a shad never stops swimming.
    what the salt does, is it acts like a drug where they calm down a lot and don't release that stinky smell which eventually kills them.
    i went stripper fishing last fall with a guy who showed me all that about shad, and in the 13 hours we fished maybe two shad died.
     
  18. catfishrus

    catfishrus New Member

    Messages:
    1,569
    State:
    north carolina
    super bait tank 2 add cup of salt and a bag of ice if its 85 degrees. good to go. i can put 6-7 dozen in my 20gal tank and fish all night without one dieing in 90 degree weather. about 500 bucks but well worth it when the fish like live bait
     
  19. Katmaster Jr.

    Katmaster Jr. New Member

    Messages:
    4,644
    State:
    Wilmington, NC
    Live bait trouble shooting:

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    ACID WATER
    Water may turn yellowish. Baitfish dart and gasp at surface.
    Acid from fish waste or decayed food.
    Use PSG pH INCREASER to raise pH to 7.0 (neutral). Check pH with test kit.
    To reduce acid build up, change 20-30% of water in tank once a day, siphoning from the bottom of the tank. Treat only the water you replace with BAITSAVER, BAIT LIFE or SHINER LIFE.


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    ADDING NEW WATER
    Bait may act distressed.
    Chlorine, chloramine, copper or ammonia in the water.
    Use BAITSAVER, BAIT LIFE or SHINER LIFE if chlorine is present. Use PSG ACE or BAIT AMMONIA RID if ammonia or chloramine is present.
    BAITSAVER, BAIT LIFE and SHINER LIFE neutralize chlorine, copper, heavy metals and harmful gases instantly. These products harden scales and stimulate a
    natural slime coat on baitfish.


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    ALGAE IN TANK

    (Green Slime)
    Green water with algae growing on sides and bottom of tank.
    Too much sunlight and/or not cleaning bait tank regularly.
    Use BAIT WATER BLOCK. Clean tank with BTC (BAIT TANK CLEANER)
    Shade tank is possible. Clean tanks promote better bait sales.


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    ALKALI WATER
    White water marks, baitfish have frayed fins, baitfish swim at surface
    (piking)
    Hard water supply. High pH.
    Use BAIT TANNINS or PSG pH DECREASER (formerly AQUALIZER).
    BAIT TANNINS stops surface piking and helps stimulate the natural water in which baitfish were raised.


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    AMMONIA IN WATER
    Baitfish die. Water may be cloudy.
    Product of decaying wastes. Ammonia from chloramine. Not enough water changes.
    Maintain daily water changes of 20-30%. Use PSG ACE or BAIT, AMMONIA RID to remove chloramine.
    Ammonia is more toxic to baitfish at a higher pH. Keep pH low with BAIT TANNINS.


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    ANCHOR WORM
    Half inch threadlike worm hanging from fish.
    A parasitic crustacean (Lernaea)
    Use PSG PARASITE GUARD
    Use heavy aeration, as dead parasites may otherwise cause water to become cloudy and possibly foul.


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    BAITFISH DYING IN BUCKET
    Baitfish sluggish instead of frisky. Fish coming to surface and/or spinning.
    Lack of electrolytes. Water becoming stale.
    Replace half of water with fresh water and ass one BUBBLE TAB for average size bait bucket.
    Keep extra BUBBLE TABS of BAITSAVER packets handy in case water has to be changed without notice.


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    BAITFISH DYING IN BAIT TANK
    Baitfish sluggish instead of frisky. Fish dying for no apparent reason.
    Chlorine (added to city water to kill bacteria).
    Use BAITSAVER, BAIT LIFE or SHINER LIFE
    BAITSAVER, BAIT LIFE and SHINER LIFE instantly remove toxic chlorine from city water.

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    CHLORAMINE IN CITY WATER
    Baitfish dying within 24 hours due to blood poisoning. Gills become brown.
    Water company is adding chloramine as a substitute for chlorine to make the water safe for human use.
    Use PSG ACE (Liquid) or BAIT AMMONIA RID (Crystal)
    Removal of ammonia may be monitored with ammonia test kits. Change 20-30% if the water before treating for ammonia. ACE & BAIT AMMONIA RID DO NOTreplace the many benefits of BAITSAVER, BAIT LIFE or SHINER LIFE


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    CLAMPED FINS
    Fins are held close to the body
    Gill or body parasites.
    Use PSG PARASITE GUARD.
    Use heavy aeration, as dead parasites may otherwise cause water to become
    cloudy and possibly foul.


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    COLUMNARIS
    White cottony growth sprouting from fins and/or body. Looks like a fungus.
    Actually caused by a bacterium, Flexobacter (Chondrococcus).
    Use PSG FUNGUS ELIMINATOR
    Can enter other tanks by splashing water or using nets from infected tanks. Clean nets with NET SOAK to help prevent the spread of disease.


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    DIRTY WATER
    Water in tank is cloudy and has a bad odor.
    Infrequent water changes. Dead baitfish or uneaten food.
    Use BAITSAVER, BAIT LIFE OR SHINER LIFE after a 30% partial water change. Maintain daily water changes.
    BAIT WATER BLOCKS also help keep tanks clean. Better looking bait tanks help
    increase bait sales.


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    FILTER NEEDED
    Water in tank is cloudy and has bad odor.
    Overcrowding of baitfish. Infrequent water changes.
    Install filter using PSG DIRT MAGNET FILTER PADS, AQUARIUM CHARCOAL and AMMONIA SORB.
    This filter set-up works both chemically and biologically to help keep water clear and odor free.


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    FILTER NOT KEEPING TANK
    CLEAN
    Water in tank is cloudy and has bad odor.
    AQUARIUM CHARCOAL needs replacing. DIRT MAGNET FILTER PAD is dirty and/or
    clogged up.
    Replace AQUARIUM CHARCOAL if necessary. Rinse FILTER PADS under tap water to open up cleansing pores.
    Even with filter systems we highly recommend daily partial water changes of 20-30%. Remember to treat water added to tank with BAITSAVER, BAIT LIFE or SHINER LIFE.


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    SLIME IN BAIT TANK
    Flimsy slime on sides and bottom of bait tank.
    Bacteria, fungus and mold grow on sides and bottom due to infrequent water changes.
    Use BTC (BAIT TANK CLEANER)
    Non-toxic cleaner is easy to use and helps reduce fish loss. Cleaner tanks promote more repeat business. No harmful fumes.


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    SOFT BODIED BAIT
    (Losing scales)
    Scales missing from sides of fish. Bodies of baitfish very soft to touch. Usually accompanied by large losses of bait.
    Loss of electrolytes. Water too hot. Overcrowding, leading to ammonia buildup.
    Perform 30% partial water change and add BAITSAVER, BAIT LIFE or SHINER LIFE.
    Fresh water from a partial water change and the addition of electrolytes from BAITSAVER, BAIT LIFE or SHINER LIFE helps to harden scales and stop baitfish from dying.


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    SPINNING MINNOWS
    Minnows spin at surface of water as they try to swim.
    Internal parasites move from intestines to brain cavity.
    Feed SPINNER FOOD and maintain daily 30 % partial water changes. Keeps BAITSAVER, BAIT LIFE or SHINER LIFE in water at all times.
    Once a fish begins spinning it cannot be saved but the entire tank must be treated to prevent contamination to other fish. It will be a matter of time before other start spinning if not treated. Save your minnows by feeding SPINNER FOOD.


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    SURFACE MINNOWS
    Baitfish nudge surface of water with noses. They act lethargic or gather in corners of tank.
    Local water supply lacks essential tannins and lignins. Fish are not used to local water supply and do not respond well.
    Use BAIT TANNINS.
    BAIT TANNINS stops surface piking and promotes schooling of baitfish. BAIT TANNINS helps stimulate natural waters in which baitfish were raised.


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    THIN BAIT
    Baitfish are thin and dying. Stomachs are sunken.
    Lack
    of food.
    Feed BAIT FOOD once a day only what can be eaten within 3-5 minutes.
    Keep BAIT FOOD BLOCKS in at all times. This time release block allows baitfish to eat when hungry.


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    FIN ROT
    Fine eaten away with redness at base of bad area.
    Saprolegnia fungus with Pseudomonas or Aeromonas bacteria.
    Use FUNGUS ELIMINATOR.
    Can enter other tanks by splashing water or using nets from infected tanks. Clean nets with PSG NET SOAK.


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    FISH LOUSE
    Fish scratch up against sides of bait tanks. Upon close observation, tiny skin parasites seen moving on fish.
    A blood sucking, saucer shaped parasite commonly called Fish Louse or Argulus.
    Use PSG PARASITE GUARD.
    Use heavy aeration, as dead parasites may other wise cause water to become cloudy and possibly foul.


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    FOAM ON TOP OF WATER
    White or yellow foamy bubbles on water surface.
    Protein from fish wastes "thrown" slime coats or excess foods.
    Use FOAM KILL. FOAM KILL works quickly to remove surface foam and helps keep from refoaming.
    Ninety percent of oxygen transfer occurs at water's surface. Foam interferes with oxygen entering the water and bait may suffocate.


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    FUNGUS (WHITE)
    A white cottony growth on any part of the fish.
    Actually caused by a bacterium, Flexobacter (Chondrococus).
    Use FUNGUS ELIMINATOR.
    Can enter other tanks by splashing water or using nets from infected tanks. Clean nets with PSG NET SOAK to prevent the spread of disease.


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    GILLS OPEN (GILL FLUKES)
    Gills hang partly open and may pump fast.
    Small gill parasite (Gyrodactylus) monogenetic tramatodes*.
    Use PSG PARASITE GUARD.
    Use heavy aeration, as dead parasites may otherwise cause water to become
    foul.


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    HAULING FISH (losses)
    Foam on water surface. Bad odor and cloudy water. Baitfish dying.
    Overcrowding. Lack of electrolytes. Water too hot. Stressed baitfish.
    Use BAITSAVER, BAIT LIFE, SHINER LIFE, or SHIPPER BAIT LIFE in water. Add FOAM KILL and HYPNO.
    Haul more bait with fewer losses. Quality and satisfied customers means repeat business for you. Use ice to lower water temperature.


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    INTRODUCING NEW BAITFISH
    Baitfish may dart around or go to the surface bottom.
    Change in water from which fish are accustomed to.
    Use BAITSAVER, BAIT LIFE or SHINER LIFE to condition new water.
    When baitfish hang at the surface or "pike", add BAIT TANNINS along with BAITSAVER, BAIT LIFE or SHINER LIFE.


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    LIVEWELLS DIRTY
    Slime buildup in damp livewell. Noticeable odor when lid is open.
    Bacteria, fungus and mold grow in dark and damp livewell.
    Use
    BWC (LIVEWELL CLEANER) or BTC (BAIT TANK CLEANER).
    Non-toxic cleaner is easy to use and helps reduce fish loss from dirty livewell. No harmful fumes.


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    NETS NEED CLEANING
    Nets used in multiple tanks need to be cleaned between use.
    Problems can be spread from tank to tank.
    Use PSG NET SOAK to take the guesswork out of cleaning nets.
    PSG NET SOAK also keeps nets moist and soft to decrease injury to scales and skin when netting fish.


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    NEW WATER
    Baitfish Dart about. Gills pump furiously.
    Dissolved gases or metal in the water.
    Use BAITSAVER, BAIT LIFE or SHINER LIFE.
    Chlorine, copper and other heavy materials are often found in city water. BAITSAVER, BAIT LIFE and SHINER LIFE neutralize the fish toxins at once.


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    PARASITES
    Baitfish scratch against sides of tank. Fins are clamped together. Gills pump quickly and may be kept partly open.
    Parasitic worms or fish louse irritate fish. Large numbers of parasites will kill baitfish.
    Use PSG PARASITE GUARD.
    Use heavy aeration as dead parasites may otherwise cause the water to become cloudy and possibly foul.


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    pH HIGH (Alkali water)
    White water marks. Fish may "pike" at the surface of the water.
    Hard water supply.
    Use PSG pH DECREASER available in liquid or crystal. BAIT TANNINS also helps lower pH and stops surface piking.
    Hard water will maintain a highly stable pH. Ammonia is also more toxic at a high pH. Baitfish do better at a neutral pH of 7.0


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    pH LOW (Acid water)
    Water may turn yellowish. Baitfish dark and gasp. Excess slime is produced by fish.
    Acid from fish wastes or decaying food or fish. Infrequent water changes.
    UsePSG pH INCREASER available in liquid or crystal.
    Low pH may be due to very soft water. Maintaining a neutral pH of 7.0 with PSG pH INCREASER for better quality bait.


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    PIKING MINNOWS
    Baitfish nudge surface of water with nose. They act lethargic or gather in corners of tank.
    Local water supply lacks essential tannins and lignins. Fish are not accustomed to local water supply and do not respond well.
    Use BAIT TANNINS.
    BAIT TANNINS stops surface piking and promotes schooling of baitfish. BAIT TANNINS helps simulate natural waters in which baitfish were raised.


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    SHAD DYING
    Shad lose scales, become soft and die quickly.
    Lack of electrolytes, water too hot, foam on surface.
    Use SHAD SAVER. On poor shad, use double strength SHAD SAVER. Maintain 65 degrees F for shad. SHAD SAVER adds necessary electrolytes and removes surface foam. Add ice to cool water. Use round bait tank if possible.


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    SHINERS (NEW) DYING AFTER BEING CAUGHT
    Shiners lose scales, become soft and die quickly.
    Removal of Shiners from natural habitat is stressful. Electrolytes are quickly lost.
    Use SHINE KURE for three days followed by use of SHINER LIFE.
    SHINER KURE purges shiners and hard scaled baitfish and hardens scales. These baitfish are more marketable once treated with SHINER LIFE.


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    SKIN SORES
    Open sores on baitfish's body.
    Called Furunculosis. Caused by Aeromonas Salmonicida bacteria.
    Use FUNGUS ELIMINATOR.
    In severe cases, also add SHINER KURE with FUNGUS ELIMINATOR to help heal wounds.
     
  20. kybunniebuster

    kybunniebuster New Member

    Messages:
    82
    State:
    winchester kentucky
    i was thinking about making a cage out of rat wire and put faom in the top so it would float fill it with shad and drop it in the water off the side of the boat or from the bank ill let you know how it works figured it would keep them in fresh water all the time, dont know if it will work but im gonna try it