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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thank goodness for youtube.

I bought a used (eBay) Penn Fierce II 4000 live liner a while back and when it arrived I could see just the slightest white corrosion around the edge of the two screws on the livelier lever. I had a really good idea what that meant. SALT WATER. As normal, one of the two screws would not come out. It had previously been rounded out some and after trying 3 or 4 times, I didn't help it any. So, I ended up drilling the head off of it which did a little damage to half of the two piece lever. But, that leaver had to come off or you could not get the side cover off of the reel.

After getting the screw removed and the two sided live liner lever off I was able to get the side cover off and the inside was in good condition as far as salt corrosion went.

Here is the reel.

And for those not familiar with a Live Liner version of this reel (different manufacturers use different names), the lever just behind the mounting arm is the lever with the corroded screws. These reels are great for carp fishing and that is where the additional function the reel has comes in. You can cast your bait out and flip that lever up. That releases the spool except for a slight adjustable tension provided by that knob on the back. When a carp runs with the hook, and you crank the handle the spool is engaged and you are back to using the normal drag. So it does everything the typical spinning reel does with an additional function.

325972


And here is some info on Mystic Reel Parts

325973


I ordered the new screw needed and the 1/2 lever that I had damaged. In addition I got the bar lever that the lever screw went into. It is inside the reel and had some corrosion too.

I also got two extra screws and tiny washers for the side plate.
That all came to just over $8 and of course then there was shipping.
Parts $8 and shipping $6.??. I probably should have ordered more stuff since the shipping would have been the same But that is more like my wife's way of looking at things.

I want to give Mystic Reel Parts an (A) for making it easy to find the parts I needed using their schematics, having great prices (lower than other sites) and for very fast shipping with package tracking.

Anyway, here is a big shoutout for YOUTUBE. If you do some digging, you can most often find some relevant information on what you are getting ready to do. Just keep in mind that the information may be from the worlds expert on the subject or from Joe Snuffies kid that tears everything apart in the basement.

Anyway, I tore it down completely, cleaned all the old grease out of it and got it back together with no extra parts laying around. I won't say I didn't have to backtrack a time or two because of getting the cart before the horse during reassembly but it all worked out just fine.

Tight lines all.
 

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If you didn't have extra parts after getting back together...you didn't fix it right 馃槀

A lot of times those rounded off screws will come out if you lay a piece of wide and thin rubberband over them before slotting up the screwdriver. I had to buy a lot of screws off the local repair/tackle shop owner as kid before he told me that 馃槀
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Later this afternoon, the second upgrade arrived in the mail. Just over $8 for new carbontex drag disks from Smooooth Drag. The Penn Fierce II had felt disks that were oiled for the drag system. The newer Penn Fierce III switched to carbon disks. It cost just over $8 to switch to the newer carbontec disks. Very simple to replace them.
 

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You switching both drag stacks over or just the main drag?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Just the main drag stack that is inside the spool. The second drag stack that is inside the adjustment knob on the back of the reel looks to already be made with carbon disks. Plus that secondary drag is not set tight. It just needs enough tension to prevent the wind or current from pulling line off the spool.
 

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that is some nice work Tom

and you have the handle on the right side

thanks for the pics there is a guy close by selling a Penn Battle and a bunch of tackle for 75 bucks
 
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Just the main drag stack that is inside the spool. The second drag stack that is inside the adjustment knob on the back of the reel looks to already be made with carbon disks. Plus that secondary drag is not set tight. It just needs enough tension to prevent the wind or current from pulling line off the spool.

That makes sense. I've been trying to find somebody who upgraded the baitfeeder stack to see if it's worth the hassle 馃槀
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
that is some nice work Tom

and you have the handle on the right side

thanks for the pics there is a guy close by selling a Penn Battle and a bunch of tackle for 75 bucks

Wesley, here is a video comparing the three reels and specifically pontoon out the differences.


This one is pretty good for figuring out the process on what I had. I did a lot better at cleaning out the older grease than the guy in the video. I am not sure I would want to pay him to half clean it.


You also might click on the authors name to see all of his videos. May be something useful for you there.

tight lines
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Wesley, in your area I would watch closely for salt water damage. It gets into those screws and just Lockes them into place. The only apparent salt water damage on mine was that one screw. But when I had to drill it out, I caused more damage. Luckily, all the damage was easily replaceable with a couple of inexpensive parts.
 

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Stacee from Indiana
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So I know who to take my Penn Fierce reel to now.
I need to replace several parts on mine that will give me something to do this winter.

Now I want to listen to that drag being pulled by a fish.
That way I could compare it to my Penn Fierce reel.

I do love the Ht 100 drag on my Penn Spinfisher reel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
That Ht 100 is what the Penn Fierce III went to instead of the felt. Actually the felt did pretty good but the Carbon provides a little more drag capability.

Stacee if you wanting to compare the Penn Fierce III clicker with the Penn Battle, or the Penn Fierce II, they should all sound the same. They are the exact same parts.

If your saying you want to hear the clicker because there is a fish on, I can sure understand that. You need one of those 50# pounders out of the Ohio. Might want a different reel for that though.
 
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