How I built a "Jack Plate" for my Catfish Boat

Discussion in 'Catfishing Library' started by Bobpaul, Mar 3, 2006.

  1. Bobpaul

    Bobpaul New Member

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    Supply NC
    This is the first set of pics.

    Material used was 3x3 aluminum angle, s/s 1/2" nuts and bolts, and 3/4 plywood. 3 pieces of plywood laminated together to equal a thickness of 2 1/4".

    Tools used were, a circular saw, drill, a tape measure, and a small drill press. Being able to read a tape measure and getting lucky helps too.

    This was built on the tail gate of my p/u truck.

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    I mounted a 25 hp merc on my boat and saw that the anti cav plate was about 3" below the hull, so I offset the aluminum angle that distance.

    I could've offset it more to raise the motor a bit more because the motor will be set back 3" also. That being because water comes up from under your boat as it moves forward.

    Take notice of high power bass boats with adjustable or hydrolic adjustable jack plates. Their set back allows for the motor to be raised quite a bit to eliminate drag. Some even go to the expense of specially made lower units with a forward bottom water pick up, made by Bob's Machine shop in Fl, no relation.

    Now for some more pics, of my version.

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    The boat is a 16' Landau with foot controlled trolling motor, a battery in front for it, extended casting deck, a 6 gallon tank and with all the other equipment and myself with my friend Cat Tale (Mike Hardee), it will run better than 30 mph.

    Notice that I had just enough clearance for the mounting screws on the engine to clamp the motor to it. That's where the luck came in. I also through bolted it at the bottom of the engine mounting bracket to the jack plate.

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    And here's a pic of the whole boat.

    Ya'll gonna have to waite if you want measurements of all this, cause I forget what they all were. I've built a few and all except the plywood thickness were slightly different to suit the boat. Yeah, custom made.

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