How do I stop a leak in my boat? Have rivets on my aluminum jon boat leaking.

Discussion in 'Boat Tips' started by captain5214, Apr 4, 2006.

  1. captain5214

    captain5214 New Member

    Messages:
    159
    State:
    louisiana
    i have a couple of rivets on my aluminum jon boat leaking. i tried tighteing them up by hitting them between a dolly and hammer, still leaks. do they make a epoxy for this type application? any tips or suggestions would be appreciated..............charlie r
     
  2. bigsammy

    bigsammy New Member

    Messages:
    189
    State:
    Poteau ok
    JB Weld will work,I also used a two part gel epoxy.Epoxy has lasted better than the JB Weld so far
     

  3. hear_kitty

    hear_kitty New Member

    Messages:
    545
    State:
    Vassar Mi
    Epoxy in my opinion is the way to go! But make sure you prep and do both sides! I used it on a jon boat 5 years ago and it is doing fine! Hope this helps
     
  4. AwShucks

    AwShucks New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    Guthrie, Oklaho
    old black roofing tar will do the trick for a few weeks, months or years... whenever it starts to leak again, apply some heat and it will be re-sealed in nothing flat.
     
  5. TeamCatHazzard

    TeamCatHazzard New Member

    Messages:
    517
    State:
    Illinois
    Any of those will prolly work, I would go for the JB Weld myself, I use a little 10' jon for fishin the creek out here at school and used it to patch a hole and it works great.
     
  6. Phil Washburn

    Phil Washburn New Member

    Messages:
    7,680
    State:
    Shawnee OK
    i would recommend silicone or, as awshucks said, tar. you want something that has some give to it. altho i use jb weld frequently in my shop, an aluminum boat is not what you want to use it on. jb weld sets up hard and rigid. aluminum has a pretty good expansion/contraction rate with temperature fluctions and jb weld doesn't. ergo, the jb weld will sooner or later leak again....and most of the time, in my experience, it is sooner.
     
  7. tdpasser

    tdpasser New Member

    Messages:
    829
    State:
    Gilbert AZ
    I've used Silicone with some success on my old boat and have tried epoxy first but the problem i ran into was the epoxy was a hard glue which eventually cracked because of the flexability in the boat. Winter fishing for salmon in WA was a good test cold temps and banging waves. once I scraped the epoxy off as best I could I applied the silicone which lasted longer. If you have access to a TIG welder that would be the best other wise clean the joints extremly well wire brush and acidtone let dry then silicone both sides after silicone has been applied you could do 3 coats of paint 1 primer 2 finish maybe camo on the outside of the boat. I hated my leaker but caught a lot of fish.
     
  8. Jbuck

    Jbuck Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,717
    State:
    il
    I would have to agree with the best, but most expensive way would be to have it welded. "Memphis Net And Twine" used to list an aluminum bonding materal in their catalog, the picture showed a rivit being worked on, it was a rod looking thing that you used a propane tourch to heat, don't know how well it worked though.
     
  9. catsmith1

    catsmith1 New Member

    Messages:
    1,073
    State:
    Haughton, Louisiana
    Yes you can get a aluminum brazing rod. Just like a brass one but for aluminum. Works pretty well. Ask sgt rob but he uses some stuff from 3M on his leaks. Swears by it.
     
  10. sgt_rob

    sgt_rob Member

    Messages:
    961
    State:
    Bossier City, LA
    3M 5200 is "the stuff". It is like a very flexible marine grade caulk that takes up to a week to cure and adheres very well. I can always get it in the marine section at WalMart.

    BTW, I've tried the aluminum welding rod you used with a propane torch and didn't have any luck with it. Could be just the way I was trying to use it but it didn't impress me at all.
     
  11. captain5214

    captain5214 New Member

    Messages:
    159
    State:
    louisiana
    i ended up using a product called MARINETEX, it was recommend by the boat shop. too me, it looked and applied just like JBWELD( too hard and stiff, i think) thanks for all the tips,guys and sgt rob that 3m 5200 will be my next try.....i have some of those aluminum rods that you can use a propane torch to braze with.....just to chicken to try it. thanks again...........charlie r
     
  12. snooker_hooker

    snooker_hooker New Member

    Messages:
    251
    State:
    sc
  13. Nobody Special

    Nobody Special New Member

    Messages:
    614
    State:
    TN
    Hey, I've got an idea! What about replacing the rivet?
     
  14. catsmith1

    catsmith1 New Member

    Messages:
    1,073
    State:
    Haughton, Louisiana
    Hey grumpy stop applying logic to the situation!:eek: All my advice and I never thought of doing that! Not like I never done it before.:sad:
     
  15. nosnag

    nosnag New Member

    Messages:
    284
    State:
    Florida
    Yep,Chisel it off from the inside,punch it out,redrill the hole to the next size rivet,put it in and flare it. Just be sure you use a alum. rivet and not a steel one.Steel rivets in alum. will cause corrosion of the alum.

    BILL
     
  16. caatstalker

    caatstalker New Member

    Messages:
    265
    State:
    oklahoma
    this year 1980, time for someone else to put the sealent on it . next year anouther alum. boat. i wont live another 26 yr :confused: lol
     
  17. JohnC

    JohnC New Member

    Messages:
    21
    State:
    Ohio
    I have a 14 foot jon boat that has 6 pin hole leaks. I will try the 3M product. For those that have tried it,can you paint over it?

    Thanks,John
     
  18. Mark J

    Mark J New Member

    Messages:
    9,407
    State:
    Four Oaks, NC
    For a simple cost effective fix Rob hit it on the head. 3M's 5200.

    Another product that came to mind was NP1 although I do not know if it is suitable below waterline, but it is some kick butt sealer otherwise.
     
  19. sgt_rob

    sgt_rob Member

    Messages:
    961
    State:
    Bossier City, LA
    5200 is suitable above and below the waterline. Paintable? Maybe after it cures. It is flexible (like your boat) so it should be better than something stiff (like a JB Weld type product).
     
  20. Mark J

    Mark J New Member

    Messages:
    9,407
    State:
    Four Oaks, NC
    And it doesn't mildew like other sealants!