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Discussion Starter #1
I just purchased a boat last Year. So i dont know much about them. I asked 2 guys with boats how they winterize their boats and they said to just put fuel stabilizer in the gas tank so it doesnt collect moisture. Well i did that. Now people are saying that i should of put anti-freeze in the motor so the water doesnt freeze and crack the block. Well knowing my luck the block is going to be cracked when i get it ready once the weather gets better. I wish i would of known about it because it would of saved me a ton of money.

Does anyone have any tips before i turn the motor over? If the block is cracked, what do they cost? Its a 60 horse Mariner. Im heartbroken. Any advice would be great. Thanks.
 

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did you have your motor trimed down. if so the water should have run out. you might be fine, i never put anti,freeze in my motor. but you need to make sure that there is no water in your lower unit.
 

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How did you store your motor? If the motor was left in the run position(tilted down) all of the water should have run out of it. You DO NOT put anti-freeze in an outboard.

Now if you left it in the tilt/trim up position, rain could've stayed in the prop and froze causing big problems for the lower unit, seals, gears, and the housing itself.
 

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Calvin,
I leave my boat outside all winter and have used it all winter long. I do put fuel stabilizer in the fuel, usually Seafoam. After every use I make sure to lower the motor so all the water will drain out. If you have left it outside with the motor tilted up with water collecting around the prop area then it could be possible that you may have a problem. Always make sure the motor is all the way down so the water can drain. Ive never heard of anyone putting antifreeze in the motor. rspd507
 

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My boat's got a 75hp Mariner. All I did was add stabil to the gas, then run the motor for about five minutes to let it circulate. When I got ready to turn the motor off, I trimmed it all the way down and pulled the water hose off of the lower unit. When the stream from the water pump started to slow, I turned the motor off and that was it. In hindsight I probably should have drained the oil from the lower unit and replaced it in case there was water in the oil. But, I've checked the lower unit several times this winter and it looks to be fine. I think you'll be ok.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Awesome. Thanks a ton guys. You just made my day alot better. I parked the boat in late september. The motor is tilted down so it wouldnt be holding water. It didnt get real cold until november so hopefully ill be fine. I wonder what those people who told me that were thinking? They said that some peoples boats motors have water in them. Then it freezes and expands, then cracks the block???


I think im going to take it to the local boat shop and have them look it over before i turn the key. I dont want to take any chances.

Thanks for all the help. Its very much appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
One more question. I have a oil sending unit. I just add the oil into the unit and it mixes with the gas. Ive been told to get rid of that and just mix the gas on my own so i dont have to rely on it. Is that a good or bad idea?
 

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This might clear things up a bit. Most inboard motors(runabouts ski boats and inboard jet drives) cannot be completely drained of all water in the block. Most marine mechanics recommend adding antifreeze to the engines cooling system in this situation. A good friend of mine is a qualified certified merc. mechanic and also runs a resort on truman lake. He has never seen an outboard fail from freezing unless the motor was tilted up and retained water during very cold periods (15 deg. and cooler.) I have had numerous motors that i leave outdoors during the winter months. No problems just tilt them down.
 

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Your motor should have a internal kill if the oil sending unit quits or at least a buzzer. Some do not trust these setups. I know some people who have disconnected it and just run oil in the gas and they do not have to worry about it any more. I have never had a problem with my 115 Merc with a seperate oil tank.
 

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When I lived up north and had my little 25 hp Buccaneer, I always pulled the plug out of the lower unit and drained the oil out, which always had water in it, prior to winter. My mechanic told me the real danger was lower unit damage from freezing, never mentioned engine block problems. Maybe he assumed I trimmed it down. (which I did)

Hope you have no problems!
 

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I just use Stabil in the gas tank as well. I have never heard of using antifreeze in the motor. I probably wouldn't do that.
As long as the motor was trimmed down you should be fine.
 

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When they're talking about antifreeze in an outboard what they mean is to put an antifreeze/water mix in a tank and run the motor in the tank to pull the antifreeze/water mix into the water galleries in the block. That way if for some reason you leave the motor up and don't drain it before winter the water in the block won't freeze.

Outboard motors don't have a closed cooling system like a car, but they do pull water through the motor and some of that water (what you see draining out when you tilt the motor down) gets left in the water galleries in the block if you don't tilt it down.

My boat lives outside (with the exception of this winter since I'm redoing the decks) and I've never had an issue as long as the motor is tilted down when I put her away.
 

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Who in the world told you that you should have put anti-freeze in your motor? If you had needed to put anti-freeze in your motor I would have told you when you asked me last fall what you had to do to winterize your motor. Anyway,I don't think you have anything to worry about as far as a cracked block. As long as you had your motor in the vertical position over the winter you should be good to go.
 

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There are three basic types of boat engine configurations.

1. I/O = Inboard / Outboard it has the engine inside the hull and the outdrive outside such as a Mercruiser. These come with an open cooling system or closed. The closed uses a heat exchanger. Both types need to be winterized with antifreeze.

2. Inboard. These have everything but a prop shaft and prop inside the boat hull. These too must be winterized. Along with all the other stuff normally in a boat of this size.

3. Outboards as long as these are stored in the vertical position they are self draining as far as any I know of. The only thing you may want to look at is water left over in a live well or bilge pump or lines for these.

I'm big on both Stabil and Seam Foam. Also when you add these fuel additives you should put it in the tank make sure it's mixed up and then run the engine so it is the carb when stored. I also remove the battery and store inside on a small charger. Also if you intend to work on this yourself BUY A SHOP MANUAL!

If you are not comfortable with this stuff or don't trust the answers you are getting since it seems you are getting pulled different directions I highly recommend you take it to a real boat shop. It's much cheaper than a new engine. Good Luck!
 

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I bought a boat and the previous owner dissconnected the oil injection. It is kind of a pain to keep adding oil at the pump but if for some reason oil stops injecting and the horn didn't sound. Would get kind of expensive to replace. Most likely though it doesn't happen that much
 

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Calvin, I also had an oil sending unit on a 115 Merc and never had any trouble with it. But one time I had the motor in for service and the dealer told me I should get rid of it because he had seen several setups that had interuprted power, so the alarm never went off and the engine was ruined. I got rid of mine just to be safe.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Update-Took the boat out a few weekends ago and it runs just fine! When i first take off it seems to hesitate and sputter before it wants to take off. Maybe getting too much gas to the carb? It was also doing it the last few times i took it out last year....
 
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