Help? 1970 Johnson 60 hp.dies when shifting

Discussion in 'Bubba's Outboards' started by mdspoula, Aug 31, 2009.

  1. mdspoula

    mdspoula New Member

    Messages:
    297
    State:
    Kansas
    Ok,
    I got this motor a few years ago and have reworked it pretty good thus far. $200 on a new power pack. $40 on new carb rebuild kit. $30 on new water pump. Now I can start it on muffs and works great. Taking it out on the water it starts and idles fine every time. When I shift into gear it dies. I can get it to go by lifting up the cold start lever and jumping it into gear pretty quick but this is hard on boats because it jumps up to speed. I would like to gradually move up to speed. Any tips are greatly appreciated.
    Thanks,
     
  2. Cutbait101

    Cutbait101 New Member

    Messages:
    281
    State:
    south carolina
    sounds like it needs to be linked and sycned,may need to be idled up.just a few things to check.good luck
     

  3. AwShucks

    AwShucks New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    Guthrie, Oklaho
    If you don't have a manual for this motor, visit your local library and see if they have a reference copy. Xerox the pages about the adjustments to the linkage. There are about four or five items that needs to be checked to see if your linkage falls within specific tolerances. It is sort of like Brylcream... a little dab will do you - but linkage out of adjustments just a little dab will mess you up bad.
     
  4. mdspoula

    mdspoula New Member

    Messages:
    297
    State:
    Kansas
    I took it out on the water with my new boat. Shifting worked fine then just had to jump into foward gear to prevent engine from dying. I shifted it into foward gear and the whole boat started to come up out of the water due to the engine speed. So I quickly threw it into neutral. When trying to shift back in gear it wouldn't go. The throttle and engine speed would rev but the boat wouldn't shift into gear. I took it home and changed out the gear lube. Then put it on the muffs and to my surprise it shifted fine and the prop turned with the engine. Thinking everything was fine I took it out onto the water again and the same thing happened only now when shifting into foward and reverse I could hear a grinding noise. This is the hydroelectric shift year of this motor and has always worked good for me. Would the wrong gear oil cause it to grind and not click all the way in gear while in the water? Maybe I have a spun hub? However i can turn the prop out of the water and the whole engine flywheel turns. Thanks for the help. Engine starts right up and runs beatiful so maybe I just need a lower unit. I would take it to someone but I don't want to spend $70 for them to tell me I need a new lower unit when I can buy one for a little more than that.
    Thanks,
     
  5. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    If you put anything in there but type c then you need to get it out. As for the idleing you need to sync and link it after tearing the carb apart again and cleaning the low idle jet out.
     
  6. mdspoula

    mdspoula New Member

    Messages:
    297
    State:
    Kansas
    Thanks for the comment, I will put type C back in it. Also why would it work and shift fine out of the water but once in not go into gear?
     
  7. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    It would shift because the contacts for the netural gear didn't have any load on it. That unit is designed to stay in forward as default. It takes power to put it in reverse and netural.
     
  8. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    Hydro Electric Shift)


    The shifting setup of the lower unit is what's called a "Hydro Electric Shift", which is quite complex consisting of voltage being applied to solenoids in the lower unit which in turn change oil passages via a oil pump that supplies various pressure on a spring loaded shifter dog. The wires leading to the lower unit (at the powerhead) are "Green" and "Blue". The engine must be running or cranking over in order to shift out of forward gear.

    You CAN NOT use HI VIS lube in that lower unit. You MUST USE what OMC calls "Preminum Blend" lube, commonly called "Type C". (A thinner lube)

    In neutral, you need 12v to the "Green" wire.
    In reverse, you need 12v to both wires, the "Green" one and the "Blue" one.
    In forward, there should be no voltage to either wire. (The spring loaded shifter dog forces the unit into forward gear)

    To check the lower unit for proper shifting to make sure you have no trouble there, remove the spark plugs to avoid problems and to allow a higher cranking speed.

    This next step eliminates the actual shift switch in case problems may exist there.... Disconnect the blue & green wires at the knife connectors (the rubber insulated boots) leading to the lower unit at the powerhead, then using jumpers, take voltage direct from the starter solenoid to apply voltage to the "Green" wire for neutral, then both wires 'Green" & "Blue" for reverse (Remember the engine must be cranking over in order to shift).
    With no voltage applied, the unit should be in forward. No need for a ground jumper... the lower unit's already grounded. You may crank the engine with the key switch or by energizing the starter solenoid with a jumper wire.
     
  9. mdspoula

    mdspoula New Member

    Messages:
    297
    State:
    Kansas
    Yes, I have done this test according to the Chilton Manual specifications and the voltage applied to the wires that connect to the solenoids is working. I think my battery may be a little low because it reads 10.9V. That should be enough voltage to trip the solenoids to shift the gears though. I guess I could make a mark on the prop and hub and see if the prop moves around the rubber hub the next time that I put it in the water. Would I go at least a little bit in the water with a spun hub though?
     
  10. Bubbakat

    Bubbakat New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    McMinnvill
    Make you a mark on it and while its setting in the yard take your foot and try to push the prop down. Watch out for the nkles though and hope it doesn't fire off while doing it. You can take the plugs out to prevent it from starting.
     
  11. AwShucks

    AwShucks New Member

    Messages:
    4,532
    State:
    Guthrie, Oklaho
    You may still get some forward motion with a spun prop. Just don't plan on getting anywhere fast, and try not to go against the current. You'll be going backwards. LOL