Gotta buy more traps this year?

Discussion in 'Trapping & Fur Taking' started by KYTRAPPER, Jun 7, 2006.

  1. KYTRAPPER

    KYTRAPPER New Member

    Messages:
    307
    State:
    Floyd county,KY
    I hear steel prices are going up again:angry: Probably should buy now. Im looking at adding another half doz belisle 330s and some more mb750's and CDR's.:cool2:
     
  2. 223Smitty

    223Smitty New Member

    Messages:
    478
    State:
    Indiana
    Funny how that works, we sell steel & concrete to foreign countries for next to nothing, and back here, we get reamed for it.

    You use some good traps. I use #5 Bridgers DLS for beaver. I have shoulder, elbow & wrist injuries (auto accident) & have difficulty setting larger coils. The longsprings give me alittle more leverage when breaking them over my knee, plus I can stick a spring under 1 leg to free-up a hand to set the (PIT) pan. I just got rid of a couple MB750's.

    If you've got any KY conventions coming-up, that'd be a good place to shop. FTA is here (in Evansville) next weekend (15th-18th).

    Smitty
     

  3. cuttingout69

    cuttingout69 New Member

    Messages:
    1,349
    State:
    Louisiana
    Over the past two season, I have purchased 5 doz new Victor 280's. I got rid of all my 330's and went strictly to the 280 victor. I have also purchased another doz BMI #2 Wolfer. This so far is the only BMI trap I will own. I like the 4 coils, off set jaws, and the pan and dog assemble.

    When I purchase my 280's, I also buy enough MB 330 bolt on triggers for every trap and replace the factory trigger with one before I ever take them to the line. I cut the trigger wire off about 1/2 " above the jaw, and I always make center trigger set with the trigger wires V’ed to the corners. I have not missed and otter yet, and I get a lot of head catches. When I use them to beaver trap, I have caught as large a beaver as in 280’s as I have ever caught in 330’s. In fact, I made a trail set for coon with a 220 this past season, and took 2 40+lbs beaver, 1 coon, and skunk. I could not believe that a beaver would stick his head in a 220.

    Now I have a question for the two you. (223Smitty/KYTRAPPER) How do y'all secure your coni bear traps? I have been adding 3' of chain and a 1' peace of #9ga wire to tie off. It works, but I just don't like it. Tell me how y’all secure yours please.
     
  4. KYTRAPPER

    KYTRAPPER New Member

    Messages:
    307
    State:
    Floyd county,KY
    I make a 6-8 feet long extension out of 1/8 cable. I put a heavy snare swivel on the end and a split ring thru that. This way I can just throw the cable around a tree or root and feed the cable thru the split ring. Solid anchor with plenty of slack to reach up on the bank.
     
  5. cuttingout69

    cuttingout69 New Member

    Messages:
    1,349
    State:
    Louisiana
    What are you calling a spilt ring? And where do you get them? I also see where you said you have plenty of slack to reach the bank. Believe it or not, I would guess that 75% of my killers are set on the bank on dry land. Can you do this in KY or is it illegal? It is legal here in Louisiana.
     
  6. 223Smitty

    223Smitty New Member

    Messages:
    478
    State:
    Indiana
    Alot depends on surrounding terrain. I trap some ditches that you couldn't drive a rebar stake in to save your hide. I sold-off several of my bodygrips last year, but will still run 2-3 dozen for coon, rats, and mink, just partial to coils & longs I guess.

    Back to the question though, remove the chain & add some 3/32" cable to them. You can make your own with 1/4" annealed nuts, or aluminum ferrules (like a snare) to mash onto the ends. I use alot of splitrings, which would make it easy to loop your cable around a tree & slide it through the splitring to reconnect the cable back to it's self.

    They also make a Quick-Lock, which I use for drowner locks. In the 1st pic, the hole with the slot is so you can pass the end of the cable back through it & drop it into the slot. The mashed nut/ferrule will hold it from pulling through.
    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v438/223smitty/Trapping%20Supplies/IM001675.jpg

    Here's a pic but the nuts I use are too large to pass through the opening, but should give you an idea of my explination. But a cable built for this use wouldn't have the loop on the end.
    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v438/223smitty/Trapping%20Supplies/IM001677.jpg


    If it isn't too rocky, I'll drive a 3/8"X18-24" T-handle rebar stake through the trap ring. I even add swivels to some of my bodygrips.

    I also use mainly cablestakes (Berkshires) on land traps, and can stake a bodygrip with one as well, just like a foothold.

    Here's a 40+ pound beaver I caught in a 1.5 foothold, a few days later had another beaver, 35 pounds, caught in the same trap.
    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v438/223smitty/Trapping%20Pics/42lbbeaver.jpg

    I buy 3/32" cable usually 1-2000' at a time, if you want to try some, let me know & I'll send you enough materials to build a few cables (with locks & nuts) to replace your chains if you want to give them a try.

    Smitty
     
  7. 223Smitty

    223Smitty New Member

    Messages:
    478
    State:
    Indiana
  8. cuttingout69

    cuttingout69 New Member

    Messages:
    1,349
    State:
    Louisiana
    My trapping partner uses snare cable as you have described. But he still put a peace of #9 wire on the end to tie off. I use chain because I had it readily available. How do the locks work around your tie off point? I very seldom use stakes due to where I trap, there is usually a tree within 4-5' of the set. I for got to tell y'all while ago, I also add a swivel to my chain.
     
  9. cuttingout69

    cuttingout69 New Member

    Messages:
    1,349
    State:
    Louisiana
    Okay, I thought that was what you were talking about. I know what the split rings are now, I have just never used them. i thought about using the heavy duty clips like mountain climber use, but they are so high. I guess I am spending the money for a good trap, and chain, and trigger, I guess I need to just brake down and buy some of 1.50 safety snap. I don't really know what they are called, and I to tired to look them up. LOL. I order through MB. They have always worked with me and been fair. Where do you buy your supplies?
     
  10. KYTRAPPER

    KYTRAPPER New Member

    Messages:
    307
    State:
    Floyd county,KY
    The split rings are about .45 cents each and work very well. Here in Ky anything larger than a 220 must be in water. No certain ammount of water, a trickle will work but has to be in water.
     
  11. 223Smitty

    223Smitty New Member

    Messages:
    478
    State:
    Indiana
  12. 223Smitty

    223Smitty New Member

    Messages:
    478
    State:
    Indiana
  13. cuttingout69

    cuttingout69 New Member

    Messages:
    1,349
    State:
    Louisiana
    I knew we were blessed here in La. I hope they never change it either.
     
  14. cuttingout69

    cuttingout69 New Member

    Messages:
    1,349
    State:
    Louisiana
    Thanks for all the helps gentlemen
     
  15. sds888

    sds888 New Member

    Messages:
    378
    State:
    Townville, South Carolina
    If you are looking for a cheap but good way to tie off your 330's I tie about 6 feet 14 ga. wire to the chain. The wire is easy to wrap around a tree or stake. however I would recommend the cable for legholds even though I have seen people use the 14 ga. wire. Just my 2 cents
    Stephen
     
  16. 223Smitty

    223Smitty New Member

    Messages:
    478
    State:
    Indiana
    If I were you, I'd "double-up" the wire, it won't take handle the kinking, bending, & twisting for long which sometimes occurs. Cable is probably just as cheap, considering & comparing it's "life-span" to wire.

    Smitty