I am willing to help as much as I can over the net. I am a GM auto technician and have been for 17 years. I currently don't see many more than 10-15 years old, but I am willing to help or offer advice on repairs if anyone has problems.
cool ...i got me a 88' gm sierra ....i havnt had it very long ...but when you go to stop ...after completly stopping .and take off .it seem to have a jerk or thump to it ...like the rear end goes down a few inches ...any idea's ? one guy told me the tranny support ....but i replaced it with a new one ...the old one looked fine and the new one made no difference.
I've got a service engine light and a low end stumble. If I romp on the pedal and accelerate, no problems.
I borrowed a friend's code reader and got 3 store codes. The first I don't remember specifically what it was but the reader told me it was an EGR valve problem. The 2nd and 3rd stored codes were actually the same code - P1404. The reader told me that it was "manufacturer specific." Via a quick web search I found that it may also be EGR related. AFter clearing the codes, the only one that has come back at this point is P1404.
THough I do plan to get out within the next couple of days and pick up a new EGR valve - is there anything else that I should look at that could be causing these symptoms and error codes?
Where is the EGR valve anyway. On an exhaust manifold? Below the manifold on a pipe?
Boogie, sounds like a typical bump stop problem the older trucks had. Pull the drive shaft out and put some thick grease inside the splines of the shaft where it slides onto the tranny. If this doesn't fix it, look at the rear brakes. Sometimes the brake wheel cylinders or axle seals will leak onto the breake shoes and cause a similar feeling.
Gottafish, the P1404 is an EGR position error code. A lot of times it is caused by the valve sticking open or closed. If it sticks open you will usually have a rough idle. Sounds more like yours is sticking closed if it has a stumble when taking off. The EGR valve is located at the front of the intake manifold under the throttle body right behind the water pump. It has a black plug going to it, and is mostly round on the top. Unbolt the EGR valve (2-10mm bolts hold it on), turn it over and look at it. There will be an open hole and a small pintle which has a torx screw head on it. Take a small screwdriver and push on the pintle. If it opens easily, it's not stuck. If it snaps open (you may here it pop) it was stuck. You can try to clean it with carb cleaner (spray through it and work it open and closed), if it continues to stick, you may have to replace it. If it is stuck open, you should see something in it (usually a small piece of carbon). Remove it and make sure it moves freely. If the carbon continues to get in it (carbon will build up in the intake and break loose sometimes) go to Lowe's over to the appliance repair parts, get one of those little screens that goes in the washing machine water hose. Cut the outer ring off of it and flatten the screen out. Then sandwich the screen between the gasket and the valve over the open hole, then bolt it back on. This will prevent future carbon boogers.
I have a '75 pickup with a 350 and it still runs like a dream. I can pretty much take care of anything that goes wrong on it myself. I figured you GM mechanics would be bored to death, kind of like the Maytag man, lol. Now I have a '93 Explorer and that is a different story. First Ford I have owned and although it is running good now with over 200,000 miles on it, I have put a lot of money and time into that thing over the last year or so. I got too much in it to get rid of it now, but in the future I will stick with Chevys I think!
That is also a common problem. There are 2 pins, 2 upper bushings, 2 lower bushings and 2 retainers per door. the bushings are 2 different sizes and the upper hinge bushings go in different than the lowers. The springs MUST come out and they can hurt you. There is a special tool to put them back in. I wouldn't try it without it. I use a small pry bar to remove the springs, then I put the tool and spring in a vise to collapse the spring, then reinstall it. The best thing for you to do is go to your local body shop and have them do it. They won't charge as mush as a dealership. I think the parts are about $20 for one door, we charge $140 labor but other places may have a different labor rate. Most independent body shop's labor rate is not as high as a dealer. I have done these many times but WOULD NOT try it without the spring tool.
what you talking about Willis. Sorry had to do that. No believe it or not, we stay pretty busy. Some of the work is warranty, some is out of warranty. A lot of what we get on newer vehicles is more minor stuff though. Occassionally you will see and engine or transmission failure but usually not that major. Things are a lot more technical these days though. You can't even replace a radio or door lock switch on some cars without having to reprogram it. I don't do transmission or diesel repairs, just never had the training and too old to start. Hopefully in about 2 more years, I can do something else with my time. My wife is a full time student and has 8 months to go, then I am going to work one more year after that. I started a Lawn Care business 3 years ago as a part time business. I am going to go full time then.
1. Turn signal switch is loose and the rear "running" lights and break lights do not work. The break lights on the "Rear Deck" do work fine. I know the problem is with the loose switch, cause I can wiggle the turn signal arm and it works.. but...how do I get to it??? Do I got to pull the steering wheel and air bag ???
2. Engine running a little rough and a low Idle. When you get after it, it runs smooth. Put a can of injector cleaner with the last fill-up. Not any better. I can't recall ever replacing the fuel filter, (don't even know where it is)
I do know that replacing the Lower bolt on the alternator is a B#%^H!! :cursing: ONly took me 4 hours!! :cursing: I sure liked changing out the Alt on my old pickup!! 20 minutes tops!!!
OK, you are right on track with the brake lights. The circuit runs throught the Multifunction (turn signal/hazard) switch and back to the lower brake lights. The high mount lamp runs straight from the brake switch. Yes, you do have to remove the airbag and steering wheel to change this part. You will also have to have a tool to compress the lock plate beneath the steering wheel. Wouldn't suggest trying this without the proper tools and never doing it before. Now, the rough idle could be a lot of things. If it feels like a missfire, check your plug wires, plugs, etc. If it just doesn't seem to idle as smooth as it once did, check for vacuum lines that may be off or cracked. Store bought fuel injector cleaner is a rip-off. There is nothing you can buy off the shelf that will do much good cleaning injectors. Most of it is designed to be used as preventative maintenance. It's not going to clean much out of the injectors if they already have a problem. Go to your local dealer and ask if they use BG products. This is a company that sells to dealers and independent garages. Their products are much better. Ask for 44K. It is a tank additive. It should run you about $18-$20 per can depending on how much the dealer marks it up. Their cost is about $13 per can. Add it to at least 10 gallons of gas or so. You can also try cleaning the throttle plate. If you remove the black rubber hose going to the trottle body and look inside it, you will see the plate. Use carb cleaner and a toothbrush or rag, open the plate by hand and clean both sides and the bore, especially the edges of the blade and where it closes in the bore. Another thing to keep an eye on with this engine is leaking intake manifold gaskets. Look on both ends of the engine at both cylinder heads. Look for lines along the head where coolant has been leaking and running down. If it's bad enough, you will see it puddled on top of the transmission bell housing. Don't put off having this fixed too long, the coolant will actually errode the alluminum heads and intake around the gasket sealing surface. Wait too long, and you buy expensiive parts. GM has redesigned the gaskets (make sure you use GM gaskets) and on the later ones, there are new bolts. Hope this helps you.
Oh sorry, the fuel filter is under the car on the left side just in front of the rear axle, I'm pretty sure on that model. It is round and about 4 inches long, with a line going in one end and one coming out of the other end. You will need a 13/16, and 5/8 wrenches to change it. It may have a plastic clip on one end of it, if so just squeeze it together and pull the line off. Wrap a rag around it before you loosen the lines too much, there may be some pressure still on it. There is nothing worse than a face full of gas. Except maybe having it run down your arm to your armpit, that sucks.
Thanks for the info. Last time I had a body shop do it. Like you said at a lesser fee. And a buddy said it wasnt no big deal. But that spring looks pretty strong, and not much room to work. Never had that problem on my Ford's. But this is my family car,& the doors get used 500 times a day.Once more thanks and i'l have my body shop do the job.