Glass bedding a rifle

Discussion in 'Guns - Blackpowder' started by Poppa, Dec 1, 2008.

  1. Poppa

    Poppa New Member

    Pinson, Al
    I bought a new fiberglass stock for my ruger model 77. Since I had the gun
    apart I decided I would glass bed the stock before mounting the barrel. I
    started reading on the net how to glass bed a stock and have run into a
    problem. There are two trains of thought on how its done. no. 1 reinforce
    around where the action bolts to the stock but leave the barrel free floating.
    They say you should be able to run a dollar bill completely around the barrel
    all the way to where it bolts to the rifle. no. 2 reinforce around where the
    action bolts to the stock have the barrel free floating until the last inch of
    the forearm and then its very important for the barrel to firmly rest on the
    last inch of forearm on the bottom but clear on the sides. Whats is you're
    opinion on this? Any members ever done this before ?
  2. Catfish_Commando

    Catfish_Commando TF Staff Member

    All the sniper rifles I was issued while serving as a sniper used free floating barrels.

    To check for foreign debris a common test is the dollar bill test.

    Been a long time since I graduated from sniper school and was on a sniper team. But the basis of this methodology was for the improved harmonics and better modeling of cold bore shots, "as less variables are involved". The cold bore shot in reality is the money maker.

    Of course all this rides on match grade ammo, meticulous log books, maintenance and everything else.

    I grew up on free floating barrels with recessed crowns, all I know, and they work extremely well.

  3. Snagged2

    Snagged2 New Member

    Verde Valley AZ
    I've always liked , and had the best results with the free floated barrel, Mine work with the bedding material out just past the the barrel ring from the receiver. about 2" in front of the receiver.
    You don't need to remove a lot of material, but, need to make sure it will "hold" in the stock. I always relieve the rear tang and let it rest against the bedding also.
    I used the dollar bill test, but, I folded the bill in half once, and used it as an indicator if clearanced , out to the muzzle end.

    I usually try if possible to bed the trigger guard minimally. The whole point is to eliminate movement.

    If you have a good barrel, proper headspace, uniform ammo, and good shooting form, a good shooting rifle should give sub MOA groups..

    Good luck..:big_smile:
  4. Mark J

    Mark J New Member

    Four Oaks, NC
    Paul, were those weapons utilizing a bedding block? Alot of the newer rifles are using the aluminum bedding blocks.

    Recessed crowns. Definately

    The way I understand it is the barrel oscillates in an oval pattern when weapon is fired. Some more so then others. Same have large oscillations where others have smaller tighter ones.

    The object is that the barrel stops where it started for repeatability?

    I woke up hard tonight when I looked at the price of the Winchester premium 168 grainers for the .308. Double the price of the last 1000 I bought. OUCH!
    I need to go see my gun man and talk bulk pricing.
    When I got the gun back in 96 or so the first lot of a 1000 I got for 16 a box. Same ammunition.

    I can see a Henry Golden Boy looming on the horizon. I'll have to get me a cheaper fun gun to shoot.
  5. Catfish_Commando

    Catfish_Commando TF Staff Member

    Sniper rifles have a free-floating barrel to ensure that the barrel touches the least amount of the weapon possible, which reduces vibration from the recoil. Sniper rifles usually incorporate fiberglass or composite stocks to avoid the effect of humidity on the receiver. Any swelling of the wood can affect the accuracy of the shot, why the glass embedded stocks on the old M14 converted M21(s).

    Many times bad performance when investigated was things as simple as the sniper not torquing the scope after X shots with the T-Handle torque wrench.

    M21(s) a really high speed upgraded M14 used glass bedding similar to what you are talking about. Biggest things were the worked actions and polishing matched with the ammo. Curiously, you will find many older snipers favor this platform due to the semi-automatic rate of fire.

    M24(s) graduated into kevlar stocks, internal 5 round magazine bolt action platforms.

    M107(s) first appeared in your specialty units just do to the size, but are finding there way into main stream units. Desert action kings.

    Then you have the SDM-R and SDM. The SDM (Squad designated Marksman) is not meant to be a squad sniper that fires at extreme ranges. This soldier directly supports the squad with well-aimed shots at ranges slightly beyond the normal engagement distances for riflemen.

    Each platform was running the Government between 8G to 14G depending on the do-dads that came with it, as I remember.

    Back when I was doing it as a living, there were only 54 qualified snipers in the Division. It really isn't that much higher now, they normally are assigned to the scout platoon and get farmed out from there.

    Lot of guys will get thrown into a position, but wont get the school training. In reality, shooting is just a small fraction of the mission.
  6. Kip Brandel

    Kip Brandel New Member

    Glasgow, Kentuc
    I have only had ONE rifle that shot better with the barrel touching the front of the stock and it was a light, tapered barrel. That is one out of about 25-30 that I have done.
    Here is the best way to do it that a friend showed me and he builds specialty weapons for he military. Bed your action with the barrel fully floated. Get your scope sighted in and verify the grouping. Cut a business card in 3/8th inch wide strips, loosen the stock bolts and place a peice of card in between the fore end and the barrel about 1/4-1/2 inch from the very end of the stock and tighten the bolts and shoot. If it got better then add another peice and try it again. When your groups stabilize and do not get better then remove the action cut the card pieces about 1/2-3/4 long and glue them into place using the bedding compound between each peice and over the top of the last peice and clamp it into place and allow it to cure.