Foam Filling Pontoon Logs

Discussion in 'Boat Tips' started by mississippi man, Feb 20, 2009.

  1. mississippi man

    mississippi man New Member

    Messages:
    170
    State:
    Godfrey, Illino
    I would like to have my logs filled with foam but everyone I have asked does not know where I can get this done. So I am turning to my fellow BOC brothers to find out where to look to have this done. I have called several dealers and repair shops and nobody could help me. I also am interested in putting valves on my logs if I cannot have filling done. I am curious if any of you have had this done and what you suggest. Are either one of these a good idea. Anybody heard of anything bad happening. I found places where I can buy the foam but I would rather pay to have it done.
     
  2. catoon

    catoon Board Clown!

    Messages:
    1,387
    State:
    whiteville
    why would you want them foam filled bro.
     

  3. Mark J

    Mark J New Member

    Messages:
    9,407
    State:
    Four Oaks, NC
    You'll have to remove the pontoons to do it.
    You'll have to cut blow/fill holes in the top of the toons.

    Flotation foam is no joke. There is no restraining it. Once you mix and pour it has to have somewhere to expand to. If it doesn't it will literally tear a boat apart at the seams. I dont care if it is aluminum fiberglass or wood. Something is going to give and it wont be the foam.
    A pontoon will come apart in a heartbeat.

    You would need to go down the length of the pontoon hole sawing 2" holes every couple of feet for two purposes. Access to pour in and as a blow hole if you get carried away.

    You want to pour a little at the time bringing the level of the foam up gradually.

    The downside to foaming a pontoon is welding becomes obsolete.
    You are stuck with patching ever how you can get a patch to stick and not leak.
    I wouldnt completely fill the toons to the top. At some point you'll probally have some bracket problems that will need to be rewelded.

    I dont know what the purpose of valves would be but if you are thinking about putting an air inlet valve on a toon to fill it with compressed air you need to rethink that. I wouldnt put over 3 PSI in a toon and that would be only to find the leaks. Anything much more and you'll bust the nose cones out of the toon.

    If you foam use the right foam. Use the closed cell flotation foam and not the insulating construction foam. One absorbs water and the other doesn't.
    To get maximum yield from the foam watch your ambient air temperatures.
    Keep in mind that the foam itself is weight. You'll be adding weight to your pontoons.

    It's a do it yourself project. I doubt you'll find anybody that would want to foam pontoons and if you did you probally wouldn't like the price.
    You are looking at around 500+ in foam and I know I wouldnt touch it for less then 1500 in labor and probally wouldnt be happy with that once I got into it.

    The best thing to do is find the leaks and fix them.
    It's part of owning an aluminum boat.
    Other then that, scrap the pontoons and buy new ones.
     
  4. mississippi man

    mississippi man New Member

    Messages:
    170
    State:
    Godfrey, Illino
    Thanks!!! That was a mouthful! Very informative. have you ever heard of pontoons containing petcock valves.
     
  5. mississippi man

    mississippi man New Member

    Messages:
    170
    State:
    Godfrey, Illino
    I was hoping to keep the water out, I think I will fix them for now although the foam thing is still attractive.
     
  6. NeverBigEnough

    NeverBigEnough New Member

    Messages:
    167
    State:
    Kentucky
    I asked a dealer about filling the logs with foam at one time. They told me the problem with doing it was the foam would eventually get water logged if you had a leak.
     
  7. cantstopgrandma

    cantstopgrandma New Member

    Messages:
    955
    State:
    MD
    Mark brings up very good points. From watching tv shows, i've gathered that most foam is 2 parts mixed together. Its a chemical reaction that causes it to produce foam. In all the pourable foam i've seen the result of that chemical reaction is a LOT of heat. If you didn't explode the pontoon, i would worry about the heat catching the foam on fire, or warping the pontoons to where none of your brackets would match up. Not sure if it would, but its something to think about.
     
  8. catoon

    catoon Board Clown!

    Messages:
    1,387
    State:
    whiteville
    theres nothing markj doesnt know about espeically boats. he can build his own you know
     
  9. Mark J

    Mark J New Member

    Messages:
    9,407
    State:
    Four Oaks, NC
    You want to get back at the neighbor pour some foam in a 20 oz drink bottle and quickly screw the cap on tight. Throw it like a grenade. Hopefully it lands inbetween the car and the front door. Might as well take out both.

    NeverBigenough.
    Any foam will absorb some water however using the correct foam will minimize this. Today's marine foams just aren't capable of absorbing much of anything and holding it. It's too closed cell. The only way it's going to absorb anything at all is to be in constant contact with water. A splash here and there aint going to do it.

    Big difference between foam in a can from Lowe's and foam from a marine supplier.

    So the deal is, marine foam shouldn't be used as a leak stop no more then truck bed liner should be.
    You got a leak in an aluminum boat? Fix the leak. There is a right way and a wrong way to fix anything. Sadly, too many people go about it assbackwards for whatever reason be it cost of materials or lack of knowledge. Then the real bad part is when the person's patch fails he badmouths the product whether its the foam, the bedliner, or the boat itself.

    It's like this. I've messed with alot of boats. Tore them apart, rebuilt them, and built them from scratch. Now let me explain that I LOVE wood boats. I love composite boats.
    I detest fiberglass and aluminum boats for numerous reasons. I don't care for any boat manufacture.

    I don't care what the boat is made out of I wouldnt put a 2" square block of wood in it without using a good epoxy like System 3, Marine Epoxy, SilverTip, etc. Epoxy made for the purpose. Not the glue epoxy you buy at Walmart that stinks like hell. Boat building epoxy has no noticeable smell. If I use epoxy I'll never have to think about that block of wood again. It'll last my lifetime with ease.
    Folks dont get it though. You got to pay to play. If you own a boat you might as well get used to the idea. You aren't the first boat owner either. The shortcut you "found" has been tried and failed by a boat owner before you. Probally a 100 boat owners.
    There aint no shortcuts.

    In my honest opinion if you cant afford the materials to do it right you cant afford the boat. If you just refuse to buy the materials to do it right the boat deserves alot better owner then it got stuck with. Just the way I feel about it.
    ANYBODY can do this stuff. It's matter of doing a little reasearch in the right places.
     
  10. mississippi man

    mississippi man New Member

    Messages:
    170
    State:
    Godfrey, Illino
    Yeah, the definition of a boat is a big hole in the water you throw money into. I will agree you have pay to play!
     
  11. flatheadhunterx

    flatheadhunterx Active Member

    Messages:
    1,374
    State:
    South Carolina
    I never put air valves on a toon but I have took some off and welded a patch over them, because the man didnt like them. my toons developed a crack at the back on the inside where the brackets are welded so I welded them up and it fixed it for awhile them they started cracking again and I got to looking and where the motor sits the weight was starting to kake it sag and putting pressure on the inside bracket. the way i fixed it was put a 2 inch of solid alum bar across the boat in the last to cross bars that hold the floor and bolted them in through the floor the same way the floor is screwed on. had to jack up the motor abit to get the cross brackets back straight. then rewelded the cracks then welded a 1/8 alum plate from the bracket to the side of the toon to strenghten it further. got to looking around at other used toons and have seen quite a few that sags the way mine was doing.
     
  12. jimmy willaby

    jimmy willaby New Member

    Messages:
    71
    State:
    TEXAS
    I have had a lot of pontoon boats in my time , I have a 21 ft. now .
    I bought it new and a week or less after I bought it , I took it to the welding shop and had a drain hole installed on each log !!
    Cost was less than $100.00 and well worth it because I have found out after time they will leak a little . I can keep mine in the water a week and maybe drain a 1/2 gallon of water out of each log.
    What ever you do do not put foam in them.
    Just my 2 cents.:crazy:
     
  13. mississippi man

    mississippi man New Member

    Messages:
    170
    State:
    Godfrey, Illino
    where did you have the hole installed at in the log and did you have a valve in it or just a place to suck water from?
     
  14. jimmy willaby

    jimmy willaby New Member

    Messages:
    71
    State:
    TEXAS
    It was put in at the rear botttom. It is 3/4 in. welded in place with about i/2 in. plug screwed in . All I have to do is unscrew it with the trailer raised up and it will drain out.
    Everytime I unscrew it I oil the threads so it will not bind up.